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While sLime is (really /forums/images/icons/smile.gif...probably /forums/images/icons/mad.gif...hopefully /forums/images/icons/frown.gif) out for paint, my plan is to take the motor out for some restoration. I say restoration because it's in decent mechanical shape and running well. The plan is to use the time while the car's getting painted to get the motor cleaned up and detailed. This is a daily driver, so with that in mind, I've developed this additional list of todo's:

* Check timing chain and replace as needed
* Replace water pump
* Install Pulleys/Compressor for AC
* Re-gasket as necessary
* (Maybe) switch over from 2-V to 4-V

I'm seeking other ideas and suggestions to ponder. Thanks in advance for all the help. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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A new oil pump is pretty cheap, and a lot easier to change with the motor out. i threw a new set of main and crank bearings in as well, it was only about $60.00 if i recall, and i had the pan off already to change the oil pump

it may have been a bad case of "while i`m at it`s" but while it`s on the engine stand it`s much easier to work on!
 

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I recently did this to a friends 66 Tbird. We also changed all the gaskets, seals, freeze plugs, hoses, had the carb rebuilt, tagged and bagged everything very carefully, and this was a low 60K engine. It's a messy job but the end results are wonderful. The other posts made excellent suggestions. I would think about redoing the valve stem seals while you have it out.
Check some previous posts on what to use to clean and prep the engine.
Good luck and post pics when you are done.
 

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Did you run a compression check before pulling the engine? Would tell a lot about the health of the internals and what needs to be replaced. Are you planning on pulling the heads? If so, you could inspect the cylinder walls for scoring etc. Lots of possibilities.
 

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Replace the rod/main bearings if in question, they're cheap (around $50.), rear main seal, oil pan gasket, freeze plugs, front cover seal, intake gaskets, then a nice coat of DAR 13358 (Ford engine blue)
 

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Bill,
If'n your pulling the intake for replacement with a 4v, and if'n your going to have the timing cover off anyway, it's about another 10 minutes to replace the cam. If you want to run a hotter cam, NOW is the time! Just be careful of which cam you decide to go with, or you'll be changing valve springs and going into a whole 'nother world with too agressive of a cam.

I agree with the previous posters about replacing all gaskets (oil pan, intake, water pump, timing cover, fuel pump), but DO NOT use the cork end gaskets on the intake (and don't let Vic talk you into using them /forums/images/icons/wink.gif)... use a 1/4" bead of high temp silicone instead, ESPECIALLY if you go to an aluminum intake.

From the way that engine runs, that's about all I'd do to it. That's a very strong motor in that car.
 

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Or, "while you are at it" drop in a 460.....
 

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I agree on re gasketing the whole thing........do perform a comp check.....and go from there....

I would also get a cam kit with valve springs, timing gear etc....
do replace the pushrods while yer at it.

If painting surfaces....keep it thin.....too thick and your cooling efficiency goes down.

Double check EVERYTHING twice!!!!

check dist shaft play, and do replace oil pump.

for good street use the cam I would recommend is a 286 or 270 from comp cams......good low end torque and power to 5000 rpms....not bad in my book and you dont have to change torque converters or they wont affect your power accessories.

have fun with it!!!!
 
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