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The other night, I thought I blew a head gasket... Oil in water, water in oil, oil spraying out onto the headers, looks like from between the 3rd and 4th cylinders on the drivers side. Well, I pulled the head, and the gasket didn't show any obvious signs of breakage, nor did I NOTICE any cracks in the head or the block. I'm thinking that maybe the deck or the head warped. I believe the cause of the problems was an overheating/failing of the temp sensor (both occuring at the same time)

So, I've decided since this problem has developed, and now theres water in the motor, that I'd be better off to cut my loses and go ahead and start my rebuild (was going to this winter anyhow, guess its getting moved up), plus I am planning on a Toploader swap anyhow. Luckily, my motor appears to be standard bore so it should be good to go as long as it isn't cracked.

My plans are to build the C up using my Aussie heads (58cc), with forged flat tops, most likely around high 10s to 1 compression, as long as I set the deck clearance up right to maximize quench. I'd also like to build the motor strong enough to withstand a 150 shot (I know this wouldn't be on pump gas, but I'd like to know the strength was there). My questions, I suppose, what rods would be a good choice to handle both the higher compression and a small shot of nitrous, being shifted at about 6500 RPM? Would a forged crank be a necessity? I'd like to assemble the motor myself, but of course farm out the machine work. Am I stupid for wanting to do this without ever doing it before?

Thanks!
 

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I am preparing for a cleveland buildup also.....

I doubt a forged crank is a necessity....but I am using ARP main and head bolts....

I'm already wondering something about those aussie heads.......I found a website (and need to find it again) that had a pic of the aussie 2V head exhaust cutaway.....

The pic showed an exhaust port for a 75 or later aussie head that had a VERY pronounced shelf in the exhaust port, and to make matters worse, a cooling jacket area preventing grinding it down!!!!!!

If this is true, MANY AUSSIE HEADS WOULD BE WORTHLESS COMPARED TO U.S. 2V HEADS (which have a small bump that can be ground down)....if that website is correct, only 74-earlier aussie heads are worth a s__t


I've read a lot on the compression subject.....a difference between 9 to 1 and 10 to 1 isnt apparently much (a few percent power...not worth the gas requirements)....

Now I grant you, from what I've read, the efficiency of the quench area does make flame propagation more efficient.......but open chamber clevelands already make good power; they just have flow limitations on the exhaust.....wonder how many folks are kinda getting ripped off buying aussie heads on egay!!!!

As for the rods, crank, blocks and such, I've found a TON of info on the web...do a web search!!!
 

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I feel for you. First thing that happened on the new 331 motor was we lost both head gaskets, and those were perfeclty machined surfaces. It really sucked, especially since I had to take an entire week to pull the motor and get it broken down, cleaned, put back together, and in the car. Oh well, nothing you can do but try again.

Dave
 
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