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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone who has done it tell me what height a 65/66 conv't shell has
to be at in relation to the center of rotation, to be balanced?

A good answer would be :

At the front, the bumper arm mounting hole centerline need to be ______inches lower than the center of the rotation tube.
At the rear, the centerlines of the upper slots where the bumper bolts go need to be _______inches lower/higher than the center of the rotation tube.

Thanks
 

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Good question, but: Doors on or off? trunk lid on or off? Gas tank in or out? Floorpan in? How about body braces?

It's gonna be hard to evaluate any responses unless that other information is known too...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just a shell

Just a bare shell.

Stripped of all bolt on stuff.

No bracing or anything else added.

The car has no rust at all, and has never been wrecked.

Structurally, it's as sound as new.
 

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When I did mine 10 years ago I mounted the rear pivot bar directly to the rear bumper mount location and the fronts were somewhere around 9" to 12"







What I did was sit the car perfectly level on jack stands. I used the tops of the rockers (door jambs) as my reference point. With a level placed there, I measured the distance from the floor to the front bumper mount holes, and the same for the rear. the difference between the two was how much drop I had to build in to the front mounts.
 

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It will move around a little bit depending on what you've got on the car, I added at least 70lb of steel to the floorpan while the car was on the rotisserie which made a small difference in the balance, and trial-fitted all the front suspension to the car while it was upside-down which mattered somewhat more, but as long as you've got a long enough lever when turning it and a little friction in in the pivots, it won't matter.

Good idea to tackweld some steel angle or tube across the door openings for bracing if you're moving the car around much. You can see a bit of what the dip-stripping shop put on my car in this pic:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks

Thanks guys.

Just what I needed. My car is strong so I don't need any bracing.

If I did, it would sag when on its' wheels when I opened both doors.
 

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I've never felt comfortable with mounting the car by the rear bumper brackets...
I went the hard route and used the rear leaf spring mount in the frame rails instead. So many have done it the other way and I havent heard of cars folding in half from doing it that way but I went with my gut feeling and decided not to do it. Just doesnt seem like a lot of metal that's holding the car up... i mean the bracket should be welded to the trunk floor and rear tail light panel. And the floor should be welded to the rails, etc.... i just didnt like the thought =)

J
 

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i know this is a bad answer but the weight of the rotisserie arms will have a slight impact as well (possibly making yours a little different). you'll have to adjust until it rotates easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One Part

I've never felt comfortable with mounting the car by the rear bumper brackets...
I went the hard route and used the rear leaf spring mount in the frame rails instead. So many have done it the other way and I havent heard of cars folding in half from doing it that way but I went with my gut feeling and decided not to do it. Just doesnt seem like a lot of metal that's holding the car up... i mean the bracket should be welded to the trunk floor and rear tail light panel. And the floor should be welded to the rails, etc.... i just didnt like the thought =)

J
Bolting on where the bumper fastens is 10X the strength you need to hold up 2,000# . 500# at each point/250# per bolt. That's feathers.

Of course if your structure has cancer, that changes the situation. I have had 450# of passengers in the two front seats with both doors open. If it was gonna bend...that's when It would have.
 

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