Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to drop in my detailed engine and C4 tomorrow. Both are out and I have a load leveler on the engine hoist which will allow me to tilt the whole assembly (engine & transmission) into the engine bay together.

My question:

It seems to me that the easiest way to put everything back together is:

1. Mount the flexplate to the engine.
2. Mount the torque converter to the flexplate.
3. Put the metal shaft from the transmission into the torque converter.
4. Push the transmission onto the back of the converter.

Of course, I'll trial fit the torque converter into the trans first, just to make sure. I'm a pretty big guy, and I don't have any problem handling the transmission. Will this work?? Am I missing something obvious?


Cecil Bozarth

1966 GT Coupe (Tahoe Turquoise with black pony interior)

1994 GT Convertible
 

·
Supporting Vendor
Joined
·
3,961 Posts
You will probable not get it together with the converter mounted to
the flexplate. If you do the seal in the trans. may rip. I put the
converter in the trans, put the flexplate on the motor and put
one of the bolt holes for the converter at the bottom. Make it like
a clock with the holes at 12-3-6-9. Line up the bottom bolt and
slide the trans. to the motor. Put a quart of fluid in the converter
before you put it together. You can make some locator dowels out
of old trans bolts by cutting off the head and putting a screwdriver
slot in it. Use them to help line up the trans. and use the slot to
take them out with a screwdriver. Put some fluid on the trans.
seal and the converter snout.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
You can not install the torque converter to the flywheel first!!!!!! You have to install the torque converter in the trans, make sure you rotate it while pushing on it... If you simply set it in and try to bolt it up you will break the bell housing for sure... Rotate the torque converter and you wil see that it drops in 3 times.. make sure it is fully seated - you should be able to align the studs in the flex plate and basically push everything together - you should be able to install the bolts fully with your fingers, if you feel any resistance you are jamming the converteragainst the flywheel and you could break the block or the bell housing... If you have any doubts, the engine should rotate with a wrench smothly from the front pully.. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!

1966 Candyapple red - A code ragtop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,587 Posts
Trust Shawn...he knows from first hand experience what can happen...

Don't forget your block plate goes on before bolting the flexplate on...and, if the holes in the crank go though, put some sealant on those flexplate bolts...not a bad idea to do it anyway, just in case...

It'll all go together easy enough on the hoist....then stab it as a unit....make sure the car is 18" or so up in the air to get an adequate angle...

Pat
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1570936&a=11937754&p=42910787.jpg
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yup, got the irritating block plate already on and the flexplate as well (with a little bit of sealant to hold the block plate on.)Thanks for the advice -- the "theory" looked nice, but I figured reality might be little different!



Cecil Bozarth

1966 GT Coupe (Tahoe Turquoise with black pony interior)

1994 GT Convertible
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
All the others are right. I just want to stress 66shawn's point about the bellhousing pushing flush to the block. If you have to "draw them together" using bolts, you're screwing up!

You'll know when the torque-converter is seated into the tranny, because you'll no longer be able to get any fingers around the converter ... it will be that close to the bell housing.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
http://www.classic-mustang.net/john66/mustang/pics/66fsides2.jpg
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top