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I am considering moving my battery to the trunk. One, it should help with traction, but my main reason is this:

I have a lift off hood, and if I ever get stranded, or need a jump start, I don't want to have to remove the hood. This way I could just pop my trunk. Does this sound like a good idea? How hard is it to move the battery to the trunk? What all do i need? Thanks.....
 

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I am doing the same thing, but for the weight transfer reason. Be sure to buy the proper guage cables as if they are too small, you will lose ALOT of your cranking amps in the process. Also buy a GOOD vented battery box. You will want to permanetly mount the box to the trunk floor. You might want to also get a battery disconnect so that you can kill power from the battery to the motor when you are not using the car and it works well for anti theft. Summit racing and Jeg's carries everything that you will need. Be sure to properly mount the cables so that you don't have any problems in the future.

"Just remember, if it won't go fast when you want it too,.....SPEND MORE MONEY!"
 

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The only reason I dont like the idea of having batteries in the boot is that they can spark if you hook up the jumper cables wrong, or if something happens they are too close to the petrol tank for my liking. I do however like the nice clean engine bay a hidden battery procides.......

Another thought is you should probably put the battery on the passenger side from the perspective of balance with you in the car. It would probably make very little difference, but theres no difference in effort or cost /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Youll need some long heavy guage wire to run to the starter etc. Be sure do put extra insulation to ensure against shorts in corners or where it might rub on edges etc.
 

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Moving battery to trunk? Good Idea?

If this is to be a street car, I wouldn't bother....Just run a good battery and make sure there are no electrical drains when the key is off.

On race cars, we run female push connectors on the rear valence to hook a generator up to the batteries...simple and clean installation and obviates the need for removing the trunk lid. You could likely do the same thing in the front, although I would be a bit concerned about placement for fender bender protection of the cables/terminals.

Lifting the hood off isn't that big a deal...I did it all the time on the race car....the difficult thing was to keep it from blowing away...*G* I had a bad habit of standing it up on a towel against my EZ-up at the track...

Have fun!
 

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You know Pat, If I ever win the lotto, I'm going to come take a look at your race car! I'm afraid it's out of the budget swmbo has me on now!

Like I need another toy!!! /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
 

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I decided against it since it would require either not having a spare tire, or removing the spare from the stock, right rear position thus offsetting some of the weight location benefits.
 

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You know Pat, If I ever win the lotto, I'm going to come take a look at your race car!

I understand Doug *G*...if it wasn't such a special purpose car, it'd be long gone now; with all the stock parts I still have for it, if it didn't have an engine/trans in it (and I could sell it a bunch cheaper), some enterprising Pony person could make the chassis back to stock and use it as a street car. Not a heck of a lot different from all the rust repairs VMF'ers do...
I mean, the last time I was inside the car, the original dash still looked like new and there's even an original glove box and radio blanking plate *G*....Can't remember where I put the ash tray though...weight ...hehehe

BTW, if you have registration mat'ls for the car show, send me one batch...I'll at least bring the D-coder...my e-mail and mailing address is on my web site.

Thanks!
 
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I moved mine to the trunk and used an Optima battery (no gassing as stated before). Costco has the best price on the Optima red top at $99.99. I much prefer it in the trunk since it unclutters the engine bay and makes for a nicer under hood appearance. As far as sparking in the trunk when hooking up jumper cables simply hook the cables up to the trunk battery first and there will be no spark in the trunk.
 

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All good ideas about moving the battery, using Summit's kit
etc, but here is 1 more aggravation; the NHRA will want you to have a remote "power kill" switch mounted that shuts off the engine too! That is if you want to go drag racing with it. Happened to me on my 66'. I didn't mind but had to take out the interior twice to run the wiring.
 
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