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Discussion Starter #1
I finished attaching the cd changer (rear of car) to the head unit (front of car) to the amp (back of car) the tweater (front of car) and 6 1/2" round (front of car) 6x9" (rear seat) and the 12" sub (trunk of car).

Then i attached the new power system to drive it. I ran one big ass wire to the amp in the trunk and another one to under the dash by the right side of the glove box. I then wired a 4 fuse fuse block with 2 wires hot all the time and 2 switched by a 30 am relay with the relay being driven off the ignition switch on the solinoid and one more power relay on the amp driven off the antena wire of the head unit.

installed kicker compnent 6 1/2" with separat tweater, 6x9" speakers on the side panel of the back seat which on a convertible is plastic and has depth behind it dor top movement. I have to narrow the rear seat in order to fit the speakers. I'm mounting a 12" subwooder in the trunk. Version 1.0 is pretty sloppy but a nice proof of concept. I have replaced my spare with the mini spare from my lincoln. and made a REAL SHORT mounting screw. I took a 12" plastic flower planter to mount the 12" speaker. I then cut out a hub cap so the pot will fit inside. I then mounted the flower pot to the hub cap. Place hubcap in spare and you now have a subwoofer enclosure that takes no more room than what the spare already takes up.

The car sounds great. I can cruise with the top down to the sound of crisp, clean music. Clean music loud enough to wash the wind noises away. The kick pane is rated 75 watts, the 6x9" are rated 90 watts rms, the woofer is rated up to 400 watts. The amp puts out 75 watts to all spears with 180 to the woofer.

The setup does have a couple weaknesses. The kick panels are a bit small. I may add an addition 4" round in the door to help fill out the sound up front. The base is still lacking but there isn;t much i can see to do. Only thing i really see is mounting woofers behind the rear seat back. I asked on a prior post and found that is metal is structural so the structure will need to be rebuilt. This will have to wait for any complete tear down of the car. I'll play with proportioning the amp first to bring the trunk woofer up faster than the car speakers.
 

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If I were you I would just invest in a high quality sub box. A very well designed sub box. (a V-Tech box for example) can make a tremendous improvment. Especially over a hub cap and a flower planter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
laugh if you want but the flower pot is almost exactly 1.25 cubic feet, which is the perfect size for a sealed speaker enclosure. A sealed container only needs to be 1 thing, to be sealed. The flower pot is basically the same as a bazooka tube.

I still want to maintain my trunk space so using the same footprint ad the spare tire works prefect and the hub cap forms a solid connection to the spare tire which is bolted to the floorboard of the car. The sub can be removed with the tire iron, otherwise it is attached. No specail tools required.

The problem is the trunk is to far away from the drivers seat to do much good. I'de need a box aimed twards the front of my car 14" deep. This would hit the spare so it would have to be moved/removed Or i'de have a box only on one side. Then there is the problem that i installed the amp and cd changer to the trunk divider which further blocks the sound.
 

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A little more power to the 12" would wake it up. I have 500 watts going to 10" sub in my trunk. Sounds very nice.. Subs
need power. Sure is alot of work running the wires back and
forth isn't it?
 
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