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Discussion Starter #21
Lets clear up terminology 1st. You said "right side" works, posted a pic of rear wheel of one that doesn't, Your picture is the right side.
R/L determined by operating position, meaning you in driver seat, that's the left side looking forward. So passenger side is RH side, so your RH rear wheel doesn't work. IF I got it and not crazy.
So if driver rear (l/h side works when pedal pressed, then fluid is getting to rear, and rubber hose from chassis line to axle is ok. Correct?
But if r/h side (passenger) wheel piston not moving then need to determine if steel line from axle distribution block blocked, or is wheel cylinder frozen.
Disconnect steel line at wheel cylinder, press brake pedal. Does any fluid come out? If yes, then wheel cylinder is frozen. If not I'd disconnect same steel line at axle distribution block, press pedal, any fluid out of block?
That should get you your answer what's bad.
You are absolutely correct and I apologize for the Confusion. The right side is indeed not functioning (passenger rear side) and the pix is for the problematic side.
now when I disconnect the metal brake line going in from the axle T into the wheel cylinder and upon pressing pedal, I get a lot of fluid which indicates that the brake lines are ok. most probably it is the wheel cylinder I will order a new one and see if the problem persist.
one question is how do I know if my car was built post and pre April. apparently there are 2 versions of these cylinder and I am not sure which one I need (pre vs post April)
 

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If your car still has the original data plate on the driver's door, it contains the scheduled build date. The date code consists of the two digit date and the one letter month. (for example 18L translates to "November 18") While actual build date and scheduled build date sometimes differ, you can get an idea of the general timeline for assembly.
 

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First things first:

Make sure the brakes are assembled properly. Make sure the adjusters are correct, its easy to install them backwards. They are L and R specific.

Use the adjusting spoon and adjust the shoes until you feel/hear a slight drag on the drums.

Bleed all four brakes in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF.

Remove as much old fluid from the MC as possible without letting air in. As you bleed the brakes, bleed until fresh fluid come out of each wheel cylinder.

You do not want moisture, air or contaminates in your brake fluid. It reduces brake efficiency and wears out wheel cylinders.

If the rubber brake hoses are original or so old you dont know when or if they have ever been changed, spend the time and money to replace all three of them, assuming you have front drums.

Go for a test drive.

If there are still problems, report back.
 
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