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Look at the questions below and tell me why I might be wrong.

1) Would you rather start with a rust free 67-68 Mustang fastback, complete with all parts but needing light body work, and interior, or buy the Dynacorn body and a parts car? For comparison both cars when completed will be restomods.

2) If the above Fastback is a J or S code would that be a determining factor? For this discussion you still have the option of any Ford engine for the restomod, and would be able to return the Mustang back to stock in the future.

3) With the Dynacorn bodies in the $15,000 plus range doesn't this put a similar or greater floor value on a rust free Mustang fastback?

4) Agree or disagree on the valuation?

5) What would you do?
 

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I would say the rust free car needing work. The Dynacorn body is just that, a body, you need EVERYTHING to build that car. Look at the latest issue of Mustang&Fords where they are doing the build of the dynacorn car, they are over $60K (sure they have $20K in paint and body work), but all those little pieces will add up, quickly. The only way I think I would consider a dynacorn is if I had a parts car that I could get a large portion of the parts needed off of.
 

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IMHO there is no way that body shell with no front fender, hood, etc. is worth $15,000.If it were totally impossible to get a fastback body anywhere, maybe yes, but that's not the case.
I think it is a purchase for someone with too much money and in too big a hurry to get the body work done.
 

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I would go with the original car. Who wants a Chinese Mustang anyway? You would have a hard time convincing me that for $15,000+ you couldn't bring an original body back from the brink and have a real nice car. :deadhorse:
 

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I'd definatly go with an FB needing light work.....The dynacorn shell is just a shell, and it wil never be a real mustang...personally that would bother me a lot... I do think they are good for building restomods, and racers......It just seems like a lot of work and expense for something that's not the real deal...imagine the real fastback you can get for the price of a dc body and parts car[++++labor, or your time.....]
 

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I cannot justify the price of a Dynacorn body, plus how do you title them ( a kit car ? ) You will still need to purchase a donor car, unless you plan on purchasing each individual part. S-codes are more valuable but not if your going to restomod anyways... Have you considered finding a 6cyl car ? Depending your skill level I would suggest buying a complete car and the best car you can afford. Unfinished projects and totally disassembled cars are the best deals, but not if you don't know how to put them back together!
Good luck !
 

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Seems like the Dynacorn, to me, is a "kit car" rather than the real deal.
 

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I can't wait to see how the individual states are going to license the Dynacorn body. Here in Illinois, a state police person will need to inspect it, for safety items compliance after it is complete. Then the Secretary of State's guys will come out and rivet on a state ID Vin number.
Don't even start about shifting a Vin plate from the parts car onto the Dynacorn chassis...don't.
 

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mst4evr said:
Look at the questions below and tell me why I might be wrong.

1) Would you rather start with a rust free 67-68 Mustang fastback, complete with all parts but needing light body work, and interior, or buy the Dynacorn body and a parts car? For comparison both cars when completed will be restomods.

2) If the above Fastback is a J or S code would that be a determining factor? For this discussion you still have the option of any Ford engine for the restomod, and would be able to return the Mustang back to stock in the future.

3) With the Dynacorn bodies in the $15,000 plus range doesn't this put a similar or greater floor value on a rust free Mustang fastback?

4) Agree or disagree on the valuation?

5) What would you do?
I think it's a complicated question and you're comparing apples to oranges.

The restored Ford car will "always" be worth more than the DC based car. No-brainer. But, the water gets muddy when you look at the cost.

In your comparison, you don't say what you paid for the Ford. Do we assume you paid the same for a complete car versus a DC + parts car?

It would likely take less money to get the DC car to the same quality level as it would the Ford. The hundreds of details you would have to tend to to get the two the same would consume you. Do you only restore the Ford to "presentable" and only look at the visible? What about all that stuff you can't see that will be in better shape on the DC car? As I understand it, in many respects, the DC car is superior in quality.

I contend that for some cars, it's cheaper and faster and you get better results going the DC route. Sometimes you end up with a better car at a lower cost.

Is it a "kit car"? Not in my opinion. But, it's not a Ford, either. I think it's exactly the same distinction you make between "thoroughbred" and "not" classes. The DC car just has alot more "not" than most. It's still a Mustang - not a kit car. The accuracy is far more than skin deep. All details are VERY close to factory original. Kit cars resemble those they copy only on the outside.

Yeah, if one could have the Ford for the same money as the DC car, you choose the Ford. If it costs more to get the Ford "to the same place" as the DC, then one has to ask how much more before you "come out".

I think the DC body is great for our hobby. Yeah, you can spend crazy money building a car out of a catalog, but for many rustbuckets that are "all there", it sure looks like a great way to "save another one".

Affordable fastbacks aren't as plentiful as some think. They're harder to come by in some parts of the country than others. Northerners may welcome the DC car where Southerners frown upon it. Rural guys probably have to work harder and traver farther to find project cars than urban folks do.

So, it depends. For some, it's the best route. For others, it's not.
 

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IMHO, if you're going to build an Eleanor out of it, then please buy the DC body and save the Ford car for someone that might restore it into more of an original item.

As has been said, "affordable fastbacks aren't as plentiful as some think." Since Eleanor came along raw 67-68 fastbacks have gone up quite a tidy amount in price. Don't get me wrong, it's probably good for the hobby overall, but I see Eleanor as a kit car - therefore a DC body seems a perfect start.
 

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1. Original
2. S yes, J no (I would not restomod a "complete with all parts" S code other than simple bolt-ons as some of those orignal bits are getting real hard to find)
3. No, depends on condition and original options.
4. No comment
5. "Restomod" is a vague term so if it was me bottom line would be how much do I spend to get the car I want. Lowest price wins...
 

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You want to know the parts cost for doing a Dynacorn fastback. Just four easy steps:

(1) Get an NPD catalog. Flip through it page by page. Record every single non-drivetrain item you will need. That will add up to about $15K right there.

(2) Then add in another $5K for all the things that you can't get from NPD. Then $5K more if you want an Eleanor.

(3) Then figure drivetrain. Anywhere from $10K on up depending on how radical you want.

(4) Then paint and body. MINIMUM $5K.

According to my math that adds up to about $35K plus the cost of the body = $50K.

If you think that I am way off base then I will send you a copy of the spreadsheet I'm keeping on my basket case 68 vert. Believe me the total cost is way beyond $50K.
 

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John, I think you are way off base. Your numbers are way too LOW.

The spread sheet I have when you look at buying all fastback specific parts has you upwards of 70-80K easy with sourcing all new parts. And, in my book, if you are going to spend all that money to essentially have a brand new car, the paint will be more like 10-15k or more.

You can save a lot of that by using a donor car, but then again, when you are building a $50,000 car, why skimp on used wiring or scratched glass? You will most likely end up buying everything new anyhow.

To do something like a Dynacorn car would be because want a shiny new toy to play with and don't care if its original, don't care what it costs, and don't care what you can sell it for.

If you are building a brand new car and do care at all about those things, you will most likely want to start with an original body.

BTW, I see guys all the time saying Dynacorn bodies are good for racing? No way would I use a Dynacorn body to race in, half the value of the thing is in the solid front frame/fender aprons, floors and wheel wells that you are going to hack out anyhow when you put in a tubular front end, a roll cage and tubs in the back. If I was in to racing, I'd rather hack up a $2000 rolling chassis than a $15000 brand new body. What I just said may not appeal to the purist crowd, but from a purely economic standpoint it makes sense.
 

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I am with you guys. I am replacing all wiring, bolts and everything on the car is 100% new or refurbished. I know some of my FE parts and the hunt for the perfect finned tail panels blew my budget but I am well into the numbers you mention and I only spent $10K on my car which need almost everything, but at least it was a real GT S-Code Fastback.

$50K is not hard to get to even doing all the work except body and paint. The only number of John's I would change is good paint $10K.
 

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By racing I meant a haevily modded car, but not a full on racing car, as you said, doesn't make sense.
 

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mst4evr said:
Look at the questions below and tell me why I might be wrong.

1) Would you rather start with a rust free 67-68 Mustang fastback, complete with all parts but needing light body work, and interior, or buy the Dynacorn body and a parts car? For comparison both cars when completed will be restomods.

2) If the above Fastback is a J or S code would that be a determining factor? For this discussion you still have the option of any Ford engine for the restomod, and would be able to return the Mustang back to stock in the future.

3) With the Dynacorn bodies in the $15,000 plus range doesn't this put a similar or greater floor value on a rust free Mustang fastback?

4) Agree or disagree on the valuation?

5) What would you do?

As a 1968 S-code GT fastback owner who has gone through the pain of restoring this Chicago car, here is my opinion (whatever it's worth)...

1. What exactly do you think a rust free 67-68 fastback costs?? Thet're not cheap. The DC body may indeed be cheaper in the long run.

2. A true S-code car is worth more than a small block car, period. There's NO WAY I would take the big block out and replace it with something else.

3. Yes, thanks to DC my car is going to worth more in the near future as a result.

4. See above answer.

5. IF I could get a cheap rust free fastback body I would. However, I doubt thats possible. Using the experience I had with my car I would buy the DC body in a minute and used the parts off my "Rustang" instead of bothering to restore it. In many cases it can be done legally as long as you are not attempting to pass it off as something else. You just ahve to figure out how it works in your state
 

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fwiw, I bought my 67 fastback S-code SHELL.. Just a shell, like dynacorn, but with only 1 door. Needed floors, and quarter panels.. I paid $500...

And yes, building it piece by piece needing everything, is very stupid indeed. sigh.
 

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JohnnyK said:
And yes, building it piece by piece needing everything, is very stupid indeed. sigh.
From a man living it yes it is!!!

At least you don't have to debate should I replace part x or keep it? Since there is no part x, you have to buy new.
 

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the joker said:
I was told by my insurance agent for my mustang that they wouldnt insure the DC cars. I consider those kit cars anyways. I would start with a real fastback.
That's actually a shame. If you think about it from a liability standpoint, the DC car probably has a more solid body structurally than most Mustangs on the road with shade tree hacked in floors, quarters and frames. How many of us have pulled up the carpet to find bad welding, or a pop riveted floor pan, or worse, no floor at all!
 
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