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Discussion Starter #41
I'm wondering when insurance companies are going to say enough is enough and start charging extra for deer insurance. It seems like an epidemic around here. The shop where i rescued my car from had at least 20 deer strike cars just waiting in line. Glad the damages to my car are within my capabilities to fix.
 

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I'm wondering when insurance companies are going to say enough is enough and start charging extra for deer insurance. It seems like an epidemic around here. The shop where i rescued my car from had at least 20 deer strike cars just waiting in line. Glad the damages to my car are within my capabilities to fix.
Shhh don't give em any ideas
 

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Every time I drive I-10 in texas from Fort Stockton and about 20 miles east there are hundreds of dead and alive and well "oh deer me" on both sides of the interstate at night. I have made it a point to drive that section in the daytime cause the live deer only come out at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I started to unbend the radiator core support. It would be greatly appreciated if someone with a '66 can tell me the following:

1) Is the top of the support straight across from one fender to the other or is there a slight bow either in or out?

2) I measured one dimension from the inside edge of the front of the cowl (in the center of the car and not including the thickness of the cowl gasket along this edge) to the inner edge of the center of the radiator core support and currently have 40 7/8" - can someone do a similar measurement and let me know what you have?

Thanks.
 

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A couple years back I hit a deer doing about 45 to 50 on a back road when it jumped off the embankment in front of my Escort ZX2.I bent the core support pretty good. I put a chain block on the ceiling I beam in my garage and pulled it out. I would stop at times and hit the bulges with a hammer to relieve the stress and get the core back in shape. I'm not a body guy at all but it came out looking like nothing happened


Before you pull anything, clamp a piece of angle iron or something similar to the support then pull on that angle iron. You'll spread the force over a larger area and not cause more problems then solving
 

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I started to unbend the radiator core support. It would be greatly appreciated if someone with a '66 can tell me the following:

1) Is the top of the support straight across from one fender to the other or is there a slight bow either in or out?

2) I measured one dimension from the inside edge of the front of the cowl (in the center of the car and not including the thickness of the cowl gasket along this edge) to the inner edge of the center of the radiator core support and currently have 40 7/8" - can someone do a similar measurement and let me know what you have?

Thanks.
Hopefuly these help.
1) Basically straight across. I set a straightedge on top of it to give you an idea. Now, mine is also 50+ years old, so who knows just how straight it is.

2) I wasn't sure where exactly you were measuring from. Here are 2 pics, and what I got. The first is from the seam where the cowl meets the firewall. I got 38.5"

From higher up, by the weather stripping, I got 41.75"


If you need anything else, I'm happy to measure stuff up for you. If you want to go with used OEM parts to fix this, PM me. There is a guy local to me parting out a few Mustangs, and he will have everything you need. I'll be a gopher for basically beer money. I'll try to track down his info again if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks a bunch. Your measurement #2 is what I measured. I pulled my out to 41 7/8" and you have 41 3/4" so I think I'm pretty close. Now I just have to get the bow out of it but now I have something to go by. Thanks again. I'll let you know about the parts - currently adding up from the NPD website but OEM would be much better if in decent shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Just got all my replacement parts from NPD in a nice big box (except for horns from VCM and radiator from AdvanceAuto). I included the radiator support in the package so I could have something to go by for the contours but I'm not going to use it because it is made of thinner metal (20 gauge) versus the original which measures to be close to 18 gauge. Now I get to use those Craftsman body tools my father bought for me one Xmas about 50 years ago which have been sitting in an unopened tool box ever since. How did he know I would someday need them?
 

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I have been following this thread since I also live in a kill zone. A sub $5000 max repair at a really good body shop. Insurance?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
The body shop is my garage and basement. Insurance totaled the car - estimate was ~ 10K. Got the parts for about $3K. The rest will be my labor. The hardest part will be straightening out the radiator core support. After that the rest is paint and bolt in. I painted it in my garage about 6 years ago so have all the tools to do that part of the job. Will probably take the rest of next summer.
 

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The body shop is my garage and basement. Insurance totaled the car - estimate was ~ 10K. Got the parts for about $3K. The rest will be my labor. The hardest part will be straightening out the radiator core support. After that the rest is paint and bolt in. I painted it in my garage about 6 years ago so have all the tools to do that part of the job. Will probably take the rest of next summer.
If you need another Mustang guy help or hinder don't hesitate to ask I'm not that far away
 

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Incidents like this are another reminder that an upgraded light system is a necessity. Of course better lights won't keep all collisions from happening, but they certainly will help to avoid a good percentage of mishaps.
Z, What lighting upgrades would you suggest for a stock 65/66?
 

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Z, What lighting upgrades would you suggest for a stock 65/66?
I like the products that Danial Stern sells. Since he only has the highest quality components you can always buy cheaper elsewhere. And when cheap wins out, the buyer gets what they deserve.

The upgrade for our cars comes in two parts, the relay harness, And the Cibie H-4 conversion lens and bulb.

1). I've bought both the relay kit, and the completely assembled relay harness. The assembled harness is the way to go. It can be installed in under 30 minutes. He uses the highest quality German relays. Not the cheap Asian just you will find elsewhere.

2). The H-4 bulb with the Cibie lens getting full voltage from the relay harness is a beautiful thing. The convex lens beats the othe flat H-4 lens that will see on eBay and elsewhere. Those look ugly on a classic. But the Cibie lens has a pleasing curve to it, just like the stock Ford lens has. The useable light has to seen to be really appreciated. Long and white, but not in the face of opposing traffic.

Stern is a lighting professional. Talking to him about your needs is a big bonus.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html


Z
 

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The body shop is my garage and basement. Insurance totaled the car - estimate was ~ 10K. Got the parts for about $3K. The rest will be my labor. The hardest part will be straightening out the radiator core support. After that the rest is paint and bolt in. I painted it in my garage about 6 years ago so have all the tools to do that part of the job. Will probably take the rest of next summer.
I'm really sorry to hear that. No doubt you'll be switching insurance companies when you get it fixed. I just got State Farm to up my stated value to $20G on my pile.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
If you need another Mustang guy help or hinder don't hesitate to ask I'm not that far away
Thanks 2nd 66! I'm really slow at this so will be waiting for warmer weather. For now I'll just be staring at the new parts for a while:smile2:
 

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I don't believe a "stated value" policy will guarantee you the full amount in case of a total loss like an "agreed value" policy does. What does State Farm say about that ?


Z
I just checked my State Farm policy and it is definitely agreed value. If it gets totaled I'll finally have my $20,000 coupe!:grin2: Of course it will be totaled at that point.
 
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