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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was encouraged by others to start a build thread, so here we go.

First a little background. My brother owned a 1967 when I was in high school. Right before I graduated he actually let me drive it a few times. I loved the look of mustangs for a long time, and now I get a chance to save a classic.

About the car. I have been looking for just the right car for many years. What does the "right car" look like for me. Well it needed to be fairly rust free, decent body lines and be in overall ok shape. I found this one on craigslist a couple of hours away and spent 2 hours giving the once, twice, three times over look. I knew there were rust issues that were going to need to be addressed, but they seemed kinda usual for a stang and I figured why not. The car was already blown apart and will need lots of parts that I know are missing. I have a lot now but not near enough to finish it.

So in the middle of September she came home with me. Below are some of the pictures from the original craigslist ad and the progress I have made so far.

I should add that I have never done this type of work before. I have rebuilt a few engines and do my own repairs, but this is a whole different level. I'm sure that with your help this will be awesome car once it's finished.

These are photos from craigslist.

Ray

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Where to start? I knew the quarter panels for sure would need work. How much I wasn't sure and I needed to see what I was up against. So an exploratory hole was cut. Ummm ok about what I figured or maybe hoping for. So a bit more cutting to see how far the damage extended.

Ok let's see the trunk drop downs, outer wheelhouse and quarters. Looks like pretty good metal down at the wheelhouse tips. I still need to get in there and do some sanding to see just how much good metal is in there. But that will be for another time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So the quarters are going to wait. I need more practice welding, and fitting new patches. Since the floors won't be seen by anyone I figured they would be a good place to start. I'll save for the quarters, I figured parts are going to be about $425 per side.

The car had diamond plating screwed and riveted to the floor boards and part way up the toe board. First things first remove the diamond plating and see what awaits me.

Umm fiberglass. Great, this should be fun. A google search of how to remove fiberglass from body panels leads me to a heat gun, pliers and a putty knife.

If you look close past the spider, you can see the diamond plating. The second is after I removed the fiberglass. I didn't really think too much about documenting this build until after I started a little work on it.

Now I am trying to capture many more pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll skip forward a bit here to current work. I removed the floor pan, seat pan, part of the lower firewall, torque box and seat pan support.

What I found was a hole in the toe board above the torque box. With each little bit of cutting I did in the toe board caused more and more rust to just fall out. With not knowing exactly how bad the torque box was I removed it to be on the safe side. All in all it wasn't too bad, but I don't regret replacing it. Once I got the torque box out I noticed something not good at all. The back of the frame rail where the floor support attached is completely gone on the bottom left edge. You can see it in one of the pictures. So out came the floor support.

Now that everything is cut away I can see what I am dealing with. From what I can tell the rust is isolated to that one section. I will continue to do more testing before I start any assembly to make sure.

So I have a new floor pan, torque box, floor support, toe board and frame rail patch. It's supposed to be nice this weekend which allow me some time to start doing the cleanup work of grinding, sanding, rust preventative and primer applied.

After I get the edges cleaned and squared up, the spot welds ground down and any holes filled I can start the process of getting everything but the new floor pan lined up. I'll work on that next after getting everything upfront put back together.

I'll post more as I start the next phase.

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like it had a vinyl top originally, is a new one part of the plan? :)
Nope, I think I like the look of it plain. Plus I have heard that the vinyl tops capture moisture and tend to rust. I would rather not take that chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow it's 2 months since I last updated this, time does fly. So what's been going on. I bought and mounted an electric heater in the garage and a couple more 4' lights. So the last I left off removing the floor support and other pieces. I now have the floor support welded into place and the torque box welded in. The floor support wasn't too bad at all. Once it warmed up a little I fired up the heater and let it run overnight. The next day it was warm enough inside to etch prime the torque box, floor support and frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After priming the torque box and floor support the cold weather came in. This was right before Christmas and I had use it or lose it vacation time and took a week off to build a rotisserie. I figured it would be like a winter project that would give me something to do. Well with the exception of the wheels, paint and extended rams I had it finished in the week. So now I have the rotisserie sitting there waiting on me to get the metal work finished. So here I have all of the pieces sorted out arranged by the components. Then on to all the drilling of the holes. Those 3/4 inch holes took me 9 steps for each one. Tried it at first with my 1/2" hand drill, yeah that didn't work out. I thought I was going to break my hand the first time the bit got bound up. Time to buy a inexpensive drill press. That was sooooo much better!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Spent time with the family over Christmas and New Years. Welcome to 2016 and what it holds in store for us. Here comes the cold weather again, so no time to work on the car. What I should be doing is cataloging and cleaning my box of parts, but that's no fun. So a couple of weeks pass and the weather warms up enough to only run heater for a few hours. That's enough to warm it up and make it comfortable in the garage. Since I split the torque box I started by mounting the bottom half first. Not bad, I had to trim the edges a little bit but all in all the lower half went well. I failed to take any pictures of that part of the installation. The top half was not so easy. It fit better under the flange on the frame rail than it did on the top, and I considered keeping it that way. But I knew the way it came out and decided to do what I could to make it fit on the top. After a couple of hours of trial and error I had it clamped in place and ready to weld in. I'm still waiting on my 1967 weld/sealant book, it's been on back order now for almost 3 months. But others members here were kind enough to post some pictures of their repairs and I modeled my welds after those. Thanks for those! Not perfect by any means, but I think it will do. Especially since this will be my daily driver I knew that I would be happy getting it close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What's next? I need to clean up the plug welds on the floor support and torque box. I need to find something smaller than my grinder to get into some of the crevices on the torque box to grind those welds down. Once I have those down where they should be I will go over the bare metal with an etch primer again. Then coat the entire top portion with Master Series. I still need to order the Master Series, but in the mean time I'll start the work on getting the toe board cut and fit. I am hoping to be able start on Saturday and make some decent progress on it. The cold weather hits again this Sunday with highs in the 30's which will slow the project down a bit.

One thing the cold weather allows me to do is research the things I want to do with the car. There is so much information on the forum already and more and more added each day. I have bookmarked recommended websites, copied text from posts and saved them for reference when needed. For anyone visiting and reading about my build and how it's going, join now. It's free and there are some great people with years and years of experience and are happy to share that experience with anyone who asks. :smile2:
 

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Looking good! Is that a Hobart 140? I just picked one up, how do you like your Hobart? I look to be following in your footsteps pretty soon with y 67 coupe floors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looking good! Is that a Hobart 140? I just picked one up, how do you like your Hobart? I look to be following in your footsteps pretty soon with y 67 coupe floors.
I like the Hobart...I've never welded before and it took a while to figure things out but I just kept practicing. I also found a local company that offered a Saturday beginners welding class. That was blast I gotta tell ya. I think it would do an excellent job on the body panels but not for the rotisserie. My family all chipped in and bought me the Miller for Christmas which is what I used to build it.

If you haven't already, start a build thread. I would love to follow along as well. I'm just trying to soak up as much information as I can and see the awesome work that people are doing on their cars.
 

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Good work so far, kind of similar to some of the things I have been doing. I am new to body work and welding as well, so slow and steady progress on that stuff is my motto on my '67 build. I try to get a few hours in a week (sometimes more sometimes less) that way I feel like I am getting somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I took advantage of some 60 degree weather today and fit the toe board. I was dreading it a bit with all the angles and such but it turned it pretty nice. I still have the holes to drill in the toe board for the plug welds. Mark the holes on the torque box and apply some weld thru primer. :pirate:

Ordered some Eastwood internal frame coating and Master Series sealer/primer today. The frame rail has some surface rust in it and the Eastwood coating should take care of that. The Master Series will go on the torque box and toe board to keep the moisture away.

Once the toe board is in place I can start on the drivers floor pan and seat pedestal (still to be ordered). Yay :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice and warm today. Warm enough to apply the first coat of the Master Series Silver to the top of the torque box and bottom of the toe board. Tomorrow will be almost as warm and each piece will get a second coat.

Saturday will be spent sanding the edges of the toe board where the welds will be. Start welding it place, get the welds cleaned up and apply some more MSS. :pirate:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't believe it's been over a year since I last updated this build. I haven't forgotten about it, in fact I've been busy getting things patched and the quarter panels ready to go on. So let's see what's been going on with the car.

I have finished up the torque box, toe board and drivers side floor pan. Below are some pictures to you get you caught up.
With the torque box in place, time to start the toe board fitting. Getting it all welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Now that toe board is in place, time to start on the floor pan. I only needed to replace the drivers floor pan. The passenger floor pan basically had 3 smaller spots of rust. I need to take some pictures of the passenger side patches and I will get them posted.

I was very nervous about doing the floor pan. All those angles and cuts, the curved area in the back. :surprise: Well it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I took my time getting it lined up, marked it larger than what I needed and cut away pieces a tiny bit at a time before it all fit. Laid it in place and marked where all the plug welds were going to be. Once I had the holes drilled I was ready to start welding it in place. I did a few plug welds along the rocker panel to hold it in place, and had screws holding it down to the floor support. Once it was tacked in I started the butt welding along the transmission tunnel. Here is where you need to take your time and don't hurry. Just jump around from end to end to keep the heat down until you get a solid line of welds.

I hit the tops of the welds with my grinder just to get them down and manageable. After that I took my bandfile belt sander to knock them down the rest of way.

The floor pan cut out and sprayed with weld-thru primer. All of the holes drilled and etch primer applied, ready to weld in. And finally the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
On to the passenger floor pan. There was rust through on the very front edge of the floor pan that went through into the toe board. So I cut out the rust and kept the floor pan cut larger than the the toe board so I could weld them both in. You can see that in the picture below. I didn't get a picture of the bottom patch but it looks a lot like the upper patch only smaller!! :laugh:
 

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