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Discussion Starter #1
I’m curious what opinion folks have about this intake the F4B. Or if there is better out there to consider for a stock like 302. Eventually I’d like to build my original 289 into a HiPo kind of engine and this would go on.

But for now there is the recently rebuilt 302 with a doggy Edelbrock from the late 70s!
 

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Just some guy
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How many intake threads are you planning? (Two so far)
I've grown to like Weiand Stealths for all around use. I've been told I drive like I stole it.
 

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The F4B is virtually identical to the over-the-Ford-counter "Shelby" intake. It's pretty much one step up from a stock 4V intake. I second Gypsy's recommendation on the Stealth (Weiand #8020).
 

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I bought the Summit stage 1 dual plane in black powder coat for my 65 289. Im happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How many intake threads are you planning? (Two so far)
I've grown to like Weiand Stealths for all around use. I've been told I drive like I stole it.
My apologies for that duplicate post sir! That was accidentally created by my Internet connection freezing up, lost the first one and I can't delete it now. I'll check out those brands for sure! I've got a 2.P. S-P 289 4V in there. Reputed to be one of the worst. It's not doing too badly considering I'd say!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
JSBen, you have the Eddy F4B ? So put that on the engine you have now. LSG
Don't have it yet. They cost about 400-450 in good condition. Considering the Stealth Weiand since they are half the price new.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The F4B is virtually identical to the over-the-Ford-counter "Shelby" intake. It's pretty much one step up from a stock 4V intake. I second Gypsy's recommendation on the Stealth (Weiand #8020).
So basically nothing special about the F4B other than it being super vintage and pricey :) ? Sounds like a winner to get the Stealth at half the price. Are they worth dipping or coating or anything like that? I've never been able to pick my own intake before. This will be a new experience.
 

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I have the F4B. Its been on at least 3 of my SBF's now. I have a new in box airgap to use that might make more power but I'm kinda emotionally attached to the F4B
 

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Nothing wrong with an F4B. I probably wouldn't pay the $450 for it, but then again a bunch of things have become stupidly priced here as of late. Check out Racingjunk.com and craigslist through Searchtempest. The F4B and similar styles (FORD, COBRA, and no name) pop up from time to time and I've seen them as low as in the $200 range in need of cleaning up. The one on my wife's 65 just says Edelbrock and came with the car. No complaints on the F4B. I could go on about Performers. They just seem to be problem magnets. I have sold every one I have come across. YMMV.
 

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I have had a Performer and currently Performer RPM. Both worked fine. I would not go out of my way for a F4B.
 

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I'd pick up a F4B if you can get a good one for $200. The performer I would only use on a stock engine. Good heads, cam and exhaust grab a stealth or RPM, air gap if you can get a decent price
 

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My apologies for that duplicate post sir! That was accidentally created by my Internet connection freezing up, lost the first one and I can't delete it now. I'll check out those brands for sure! I've got a 2.P. S-P 289 4V in there. Reputed to be one of the worst. It's not doing too badly considering I'd say!
The SP2P is a great intake..... if you want throttle response, low end power and fuel economy. Other than that it's like trying to breathe with a deviated septum and a head cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The SP2P is a great intake..... if you want throttle response, low end power and fuel economy. Other than that it's like trying to breathe with a deviated septum and a head cold.
Bart, I can see you’re familiar with this late 70s econo intake because you’ve described it to a T 🤣

Yes it has side good low end gruff (torquey) but mid and high end have little puff to them. Has decent vacuum 16-18 hg. I am getting a respectable 16 MPG, maybe better off the 4bbl Holley.

Guy who built the 302 long block engine made it for his truck. I was waiting a couple thousand miles after assembling & bringing the car to life to see if the engine was good. Now that it’s showing good compression oil pressure & low consumption after break-in I’m ready for goodies such as manifold & Sanden AC. I’ve also got a new rebuilt Motorcraft dist I’ll prob have Mustang Barn recurve one day.

A fellow on here is offering to sell an unused Edelbrock RPM Air-gap model 7521.
 

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The SP2P came out during the time period when cars were coming with really tall gearing like 2:30.1 before AOD transmissions were common. These engines really didn't operate much above 3k rpm or maybe less.

I recently read something interesting by Comp Cams. They were saying one of the driving forces of roller cams by the auto companies was due to the low rpm the new cars were running. The low engine rpm Comp Cams said flat tappet cams didn't get enough splash lubrication and had a higher failure rate costing manufactures high warranty costs.
 

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A fellow on here is offering to sell an unused Edelbrock RPM Air-gap model 7521.
Stealth, RPM, RPM Air gap are all good. One is not better than the other for all engine builds or driving styles. When one performs a little better it is generally only by a few HP or Ft*Lb. Buy the one that you can get the best deal on. I went with the RPM because I was not convinced that the air gap would be that much better to justify the cost difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So after the kind suggestions and recommendations on here (thanks) plus some research it seems the top picks are Weiand 8020, Performer 289 or RPM. I'll pass of the F4B as even the best ones have thread and coolant neck/port wear issues after 50 years. Don't need that for the price. Most sellers are using the F4B fame name to gouge and their rarity/scarcity. Would not buy one that old I can't see in person from ebay randoms.

The Weiand Stealth....tried and true design but only big qualm is now they are made in China. Confirmed from a few posts and reviews. So it may still be the same great casting but you have to check the screw holes and bore alignment very carefully. But as pointed out on here it's the best for low-mid all around.
 

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Just for fun:
 

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Discussion Starter #20

Just for fun:
yeah
Checked the local CL and up to 300 miles of D.C. and there’s nothing good out this way.
 
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