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I use my belt sander to arc my brake shoes, in the late 80's and early 90's i worked at a brake supply company and arced many a shoe on an old ammco brake shoe machine, from motorcycle shoes up to dump truck shoes.
 

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The more dirt you take out of the hole the bigger it gets.

If your backing plates need repair now is the time to pull it all apart, refresh everything and be done with it for years of trouble free service.

I think I spent about $350 to replace my rear brake hose, front to back and axle hardlines, wheel cylinders, all the hardware, new bearings and seals, repaired the backing plates, new coated drums, new lugnuts, new u-joints, gear oil and a derust/degrease with a fresh coat of paint on the rear end. I had new never installed e-brake cables from the PO as well.

Im on round two which is an Explorer driveshaft, new mid-eyes, shackles, u-bolts and Excel G shocks. That ran me another $350.

For $700ish everything from the tailshaft back is new or refreshed and hopefully I will never have to do any of that work again.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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Discussion Starter #23
I totally get the refresh idea, and since i'm already there...
But my back plates are undercoated sprayed... the bleeder tip too... and on the 4 lugs you have to pull the axel I think to pull the backplate. A brake job becomes way more than a break job... and so much can go wrong. I'm waiting an average of 1 week for any part i need, and that's when it comes from an EU vendor... NPD is longer and wayyyyy expensive on heavy stuff. Moving to France made this a very expensive hobby... and I'm trying not to buy a 3rd car... =)
 

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Yes, you have to pull the axles. Chances are the bearings have never been replaced.

Pretty much every project I do ends up at least 2x the cost and 2-3-4x the time.

Its just the way it is.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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Discussion Starter #25
dont look... dont ask ;)
 

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I believe the daze of asbestos are long gone. You can take some sand paper and fit it to the drum and arc the shoes yourself if you want. I would probably wear a mask just to keep from breathing the fibers that come off as who knows what they are made of these days and what they will be telling us 20 years later about having inhaled it.
Sadly, Asbestos is not entirely gone, and may be present in brake material, especially in aftermarket products:

My dad just died of Mesothelioma, you don't want that fate. As you say, Asbestos was once unknown, so who knows what you might inhale that is the "asbestos" of the future. ANY fine particulate inhaled is bad for your lungs, including grinding dust most people ignore.
 

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Dont know if it makes any difference in springs but the top 2 should be diff colors as shown in the shop manual pic
any kit i used came that way

also you might want to crimp those top springs closed a little more.
 

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I have Manual drums x4 on my car, and they stop like justice. Riveted shoes are the way to go! They dissipate heat better and leave a place for gasses and residues to go. I used Wagners. New wheel cyls and my old master cylinder went staeted leaking right after it was put into full action again so than is new as well. They are cheap for these cars. New and good spring hardware is key....don’t forget to lube those backing plate contact flats well. If you aren’t having drums resurfaced at the very least scuff then up well with sandpaper.

Also one more thing....I forget the term for it but on my 68’ the shoes are directional. I think it’s something like ‘active forward’. Forget if it was front, back or both.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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Discussion Starter #29
Dont know if it makes any difference in springs but the top 2 should be diff colors as shown in the shop manual pic
any kit i used came that way

also you might want to crimp those top springs closed a little more.
Yeah, I was surprised that the springs in my kit (all new) were 4 blue for the tops. I expected color coding like the manual. I assume that the tension is supposed to be different but, so was the kit.
Good point on the crimp. I'll do that.
I did make sure to put the short pad in front =)
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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Discussion Starter #30
Well i finally got the R star adjuster in the mail today. I noticed that the cables i have are the correct length. The system ratchets as expected when i pull on the adjuster cable, even if it doesnt lay in the position of the official diagram.

I could not for the life of me get the damn new drums on. It says it's a 9inch drum, 1.5 in deep. The inner dimensions are the same as mine but it just wont go on all the way. I did notice the lip looks different. So I put the old drums back on. The parking break still doesnt engage properly though. I'm going to assume it's the forward adjustment this time, as i pulled on it and saw the lever move a tad with the drums off.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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Discussion Starter #31
Well sh*t.
So I got the new drum in the mail today and it looks right. I'll have to send the other one back.
But, after pulling the drum, my shoes are already scored. And my front shoe doesnt align into the cylinder. I saw this when I put it together, I couldn't get it to align, but I assumed a few miles of brakes and it'd seat itself. Well it didnt. So I've gone to work all last week with it (~80 miles in total). The first day Of course I drove 6 miles with the parking break engaged. We'll consider that a break in...

And now my rear shoe has the same score mark the old shoes had. I assume all this is because the backing plate seats have a groove worn into them. I dont feel up to pulling the axels and replacing the backing plates. Hmmm, I might have to find some frenchman that understand SAE =(

Any thoughts from the wise?
 

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