Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,498 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sorry, I couldn't resist. This weekend we pulled the rear end out of my coupe with the only intentions being to smooth and repaint the axle. Well, the tubs turned out so well, we had to redo the pumpkin, and that put the third member all to shame, so that had to be done, too. I still need to put the markings back on it, replace the metal brake line across the axle, and replace the nuts and washers on the differential. I also repainted some of the areas in the rear of the car after Chuck had sanded the surface rust off. It doesn't look too bad, either. ::

The only problem we ran into was when Chuck, his son, and I tried to put the axle back in this afternoon. I was a little wobbly and lost my balance while trying to work the floor jack. I hit the cement and as Chuck put it, I don't bounce. :: I'm a little sore, and my hip burns a little, but everything seems to be in the right place. Oh, and we did get that nice-looking axle back under Murphy. I'll have more photos tomorrow, after we do some work on it.


http://www.tucsonpony.com/mrear2.jpg

http://www.tucsonpony.com/mrear3.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
Sweet! Ummmm would that be an early xmas present for me? :: :: ::
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
For extra effort, you should get a new set of copper washers and differential locking nuts from AMK. A new gasket and machined edges on the axle housing would look nice. The front part of the pumpkin where those 6 bolts are should have a machine surface and the bolts were heat treated steel. The flange should be more of a darker cast appearance instead of a bright color. There should also be a contrast with the flange and the steel cup around the base since one is stamped steel and the other is cast.

Brake backing plates were dipped and generally have a little glossier appearance than the rear axle housing.

Here is an old pic from my fastback restoration. Hard to see, but note the machined surface on the front part:

http://www.carteret.com/caspian65/rear5.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,926 Posts
Laurie - take care of yourself girl. What's with all the fall down. Help, I fel down and I can't get up. NOT YET, please. slow down a bit and don't overdo it. You don't want to waste all that pain and suffering that brought you this far in your recovery, by re-injuring yourself. Glad you are ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
The 4 bolts per axle were phosphate & oil finish and the nuts were silver cadnium. The 2 bolts per axle for the brake cylinder also were phosphate & oil.

Regards,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,020 Posts
Laurie, send Chuck my was as I will be doing this to my car in the next week or so to get it ready for my first show. Mine should be a little eaiser since I don't need concours quality. ::
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,498 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have the nuts and washers on order, as the ones on there aren't too great looking. We need to redo the brake backing plates, but I don't know what we'll get done at this point. We have three weeks to get both cars ready (not that Chuck's GT/CS needs that much) plus our trucks and trailers. Since I've been driving my coupe there's a lot of cleanup to do in the engine and underneath. Plus, we're taking the big step of pulling those darn driprails to try and get the dents out. We'll see what all gets done before it's time to leave for Augusta.

Thanks for the tips and the photo! ::
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,498 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
What would be the best way to make that painted surface look machined? Should I use a lacquer thinner on the paint to remove it?
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Remove the bolts and then strip the paint. Check if the metal is pitted. if it's not bad, use something like 400 grit to sand it down. Keep the paper going in a circular motion to replicate the machine marks. With 400 you probably won't hurt the original grooves though.

If it doesnt come out nice, try a rougher grit sandpaper, work down until it looks right, then use a satin clearcoat to finish it. You can phosphate the bolts or put a light coat of flat black paint on them.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,498 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, I think I can handle that. At least I'll be safer sitting on the ground working. ::
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
804 Posts
How did you get it so smooth? I have a 9" from a Mercury Monarch that looks like it has sat for some time. I am planning on cleaning it up, including wheel wells. Need any pointers you can offer....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,498 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
We used a grinder to smooth the surfaces as much as possible first. Then, Smooth Sand was used to fill and smooth the pits (which were pretty bad). Once the filler dried, the surfaces were sanded to smooth everything and primer was applied. After the Krylon 1613 was sprayed on, it was wet sanded to smooth it some more. I'll post a picture of how bad the rear end was originally later. I don't have a digital pic of it so I'll have to shoot the print.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top