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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent yesterday afternoon and this morning getting ready to shoot the final coat of primer, including breaking my gun completely down and making sure it was absolutely clean. Last weekend, it sprayed the first coat of primer beautifully. I'm using the 3M PPS cups that allow you to invert the gun and I was thrilled with how well it worked. But, on the second coat, the gun kept stopping and wouldn't start again unless I sprayed it upright. I figured the primer clogged the gun, so I really cleaned it yesterday.

I started this afternoon, and within a couple of minutes, the gun got balky again. Granted, it's a cheap POS, but it is brand new and it worked great with the chassis black and the first coat of primer. To make matters worse, I didn't have enough primer left, so I need to spray another coat on Thursday. Can I just lightly scuff the primer before spraying again?

There's no way I'm relying on this gun to shoot SS color and clear, so I'm going gun buying tomorrow. What would you guys recommend in the $100-150 range? Much as I would love a Sata or Iwata, I can't justify $400+ for a gun at this time.
 

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I picked up a Sata T1 paint gun supposedly new in the box at a pawn shop of $90. This is a $350+ gun. Do you have pawn shops in your area you can call?

There is a generic gravity feed HVLP gun commonly sold for $45, including regulator at the base of the gun, sold at most PPG and Dupont automotive paint stores. At he particular paint store I then frequented, the brand manufactured into the gun is "Artisan." I like how this handles even better than the more expensive Sata. I bought a second tip set, now using 1.3mm for primer and 1.1 for base coat clear coats.

Eastwoods makes a big deal out of their deBliss HVLP guns, evening selling a set of 3 for around $200.


Before getting a new gun, did you check whether the air vent in the cap of the paint cup was plugged? Also, were you shooting with the plastic filter in place in the gun opening to the cup? Those frequently plug when shooting primer. Maybe a PPG store guy would be willing to look over your gun and confirm that it is toast, rather than a simple adjustment or something similar?

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm going to the paint store tomorrow to talk with the guy who has been helping me. I'll take my gun in again, because I would like to make it a primer gun. I don't have the filter in there, and the gun was absolutely clean when I started today. I used a new lid for the PPS cups so that was clean, too. I really don't understand it. The gun worked so well with the first coat of primer, then this!

The guns I have now are Devilbliss' Starting Line, which is their cheapest gun. I've heard their better guns are pretty good.
 

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I use the sharpe gun for 15 year got one the new mac tools gun this spring it is super light weight and does a great job was $150 and can make weekly payments
 

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I use this one from Harbor Freight HVLP

There are those that gasp when I say I use it but the work it puts out is excellent.
It's a knock-off and a pretty good one at that.
Excellent cheap gun with a 1.4 tip. Great for Epoxy, BC/CC and SS. And it's on for a ridiculously low price now.

Here's a setup direction for the gun that is very good.
 

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Here's a link to an auction for an Iwata w400 copy. Dont believe the ad that says that it is made on the same equipment, BUT, I have one and it's not a bad gun. I use it for jambs, etc...and save my high dollar guns for exteriors. I have done a couple of overalls with the gun, and it performed fine.

Of course knock-off guns are a little like repro parts, some are good...

Ebay w400 knock-off
 

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do you have the high flow coupler and fitting when i went to hvlp had trouble get the gun to spray right call a tec line and they toll me i had to change my fitting to high flow one made all the differant in the world most hvlp gun need them to get the right high air flow at the low presser
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't know what the coupler is that I have, but I had no problems with this gun until I started the second coat of primer. I previously shot Eastwood's Chassis Black on the driveshaft and subframe connectors on two different days and it worked fine. The first coat of primer worked fine. But now, it's being difficult.
 

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What size tip are you usung? It may be to small for spraying primmer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm using the 1.8 tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, bummer, I went to the paint shop and had a nice Devilbliss Finishline3 gun in my hand and ready to buy. I happened to look at the tech sheet and saw that it took 13 cfm. My compressor, a 30-gallon model, won't supply that. We looked at a bunch of other guns and there isn't anything that is better than what I have right now and will work with 7 cfm. After talking with the guys there, we think that my gun is balky because the primer is thick and the compressor won't put out enough air to push it through after a few minutes. They think I'll be fine with my current gun, once I'm just shooting paint. But, they're checking to see if there is anything else out there.

So, I don't get a new paint gun. Maybe I'll get a buffer instead....
 

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Shouldn't you be eating cake and ice cream?

What kind of primer are you using? It sounds to me like your primer is WAY TOO THICK. It should not be "soupy". Reduce/thin it to a consistency closer to "water"

I understand that the primer/hardener mixture label on the can states 1:1, 2:1, 4:1, etc. Mix to the stated ratio and then reduce further to achieve a better flowing consistency.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's Nason Selectprime 421-19. It is a 4:1 mix. What would I use to thin it, reducer?

My dad is taking me for steak and beer tonight. ;)
 

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"I" would reduce it with a medium to fast reducer, but I also bought my materials. Since you bought your materials, you should call the paint store and ask them. Because materials are not cheap and I don't want to make the call on your stuff...

Overall, the primer is a "thicker" mixture than bases and clears, but not TOO much thicker. Just a little more consistant than water. Base colors should look like water when mixed/reduced. Primers are usually just a little thicker than water, but they shouldn't be "soupy". I've followed the 4:1 mixture ratios before and sometimes the primer mixes up to the consistency of a 1 Gallon can of Sherwin Williams latex paint that I'd use with a brush to paint the interior trim of the house.... too thick to spray through a gun.

I once used a little 7HP portable Craftsman compressor to paint all kinds of stuff. If the tank'll hold 100 lbs of air, it'll power the gun..... is it the optimum compressor/tank for painting a car? No. Will it work for what you're doing? Yes. I wouldn't think the compressor is the problem. I have some cheap guns that I've used off and on for 15 years. Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to cleaning paint guns. The best gun money can buy won't shoot for crap if it's dirty/clogged.

Double check your guns and reduce the primer to flow better.

Remove the paint cup from the gun and look down into the gun. Is it clean?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wish, but that's not an option right now. This one is only a year old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, I completely broke down the gun and it's absolutely clean. The primer had really gunked it up, so I was extra careful. I'll check with the paint store. I have to call them anyway because they're checking on some other guns for me.
 

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When I prime in the hot Summer months, there's no dilly-dallying around.... the primer sets up quick... whether out of the gun or in the gun.

If your gun is clean, I'd bet money that your primer is too thick.

Dave
 

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When mixing your primer, or any paint media, there is this thing called viscosity. That's a measure of how thick or thin the media is. It's measurable. The measuring devices are called viscosity cups. They hold about a golfball amount of media and have a small hole in the bottom middle. You fill it and time how long it takes to drip out. Pretty simple concept.

Viscosity cups are not too expensive. Until you get more experience under your belt, it's a great way to test if you have the mixture correct for the temperature you are shooting in.

If you get the spec sheet for your paint or primer, it most likely will have a scale for the proper viscosity. For example it might say "30 seconds in a #2 Ford cup". That would mean it should take 30 seconds for the media to drip out of a #2 Ford viscosity cup. Read up on these and get one if you are not sure.

Todd
 
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