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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Was trying to get a set of spindles off of a parts car today, was able to get all nuts loose, all cotters out no problem. I know I am supposed to wack something, but I forgot what. :) Do I hit the spindle itself right next to the ball joint? Do I try to hit the nut on the shaft of the ball joint (to jar the shaft of the joint)?

Does it affect anything to remove the sway bar?

THanks all! They appear to be in great shape!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
C7ZZ seems to be saying wack the spindle itself, Johnny are you saying wack the exposed threads/nut of the ball joint? Sorry for the confusion on this end.
 

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With the right tool, no whacking is required.

 

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Nope, don't wack the threads! :D Wack the spindle itself.. Sorry I forgot for the ball joints you can't get a clear shot.. but I guess on mustang suspension the best area (Althoughn ot the most convenient) would be to wack it from 'behind' the spindle, dead on at the area where the ball joints go through.

(Or from the sides.. but you want to wack the spindle right where the ball joint tapers are.)
 

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The people I've worked with get really cranky if you make hammer marks on their spindles.
 

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Ok ok, go out to the hardware store and make the tool that 22GT showed.

(OR, smack the thing with a hammer. It's probably covered with mud and crud anyways).
 

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I never could tell that I ever marked a spindle with a hammer. I have knocked paint off them. Not counting late model aluminum spincles off course.
Balljoints and tie rod ends have tapers. The idea is that by smacking the robust side of the assembly you can slightly distort the tapered hole for a split second which is enough to release the tapered pin. By doing this you don't have to worry about damaging the threads at all. One hammer blow to the threads can mash them enough to make the balljoint/tierod end unusable thereafter.
It's possible to release the taper only to have it reclench. Causing you to beat the snot out of things for nothing. Thus you want to apply pressure with a prybar or what have you to the parts. Sometimes with tierods that "hang" you can give them a good hit and they literally fall out. Most times it takes more than one hit though. To apply some pressure and make well directed hammer swings often requires an assistant. And usually your small 16 ounce hammer won't shock hard enough to work, you'll just wear yourself out tapping on things, though one will often do for tierod ends. You need a 2 pound or so to give balljoints a good whack.
 

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Stephen, Lets get one of these tools. I think its worth the money. After your working on the parts car ( Troys 65 ) for several hours in the cold... I had to laugh at the look on your face when I got home and told you had a trunk full of spindles in a Fairlane! I guess that was almost as funny as Abby ( my lab ) jumping into the trunk.

See ya soon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I never could tell that I ever marked a spindle with a hammer. I have knocked paint off them. Not counting late model aluminum spincles off course.
Balljoints and tie rod ends have tapers. The idea is that by smacking the robust side of the assembly you can slightly distort the tapered hole for a split second which is enough to release the tapered pin. By doing this you don't have to worry about damaging the threads at all. One hammer blow to the threads can mash them enough to make the balljoint/tierod end unusable thereafter.
It's possible to release the taper only to have it reclench. Causing you to beat the snot out of things for nothing. Thus you want to apply pressure with a prybar or what have you to the parts. Sometimes with tierods that "hang" you can give them a good hit and they literally fall out. Most times it takes more than one hit though. To apply some pressure and make well directed hammer swings often requires an assistant. And usually your small 16 ounce hammer won't shock hard enough to work, you'll just wear yourself out tapping on things, though one will often do for tierod ends. You need a 2 pound or so to give balljoints a good whack.
Nice write up, thanks.

Ok ok, go out to the hardware store and make the tool that 22GT showed.

(OR, smack the thing with a hammer. It's probably covered with mud and crud anyways).
It IS filthy, but in a good way, it's caked with ball joint grease and road dirt so no rust.

Stephen, Lets get one of these tools. I think its worth the money. After your working on the parts car ( Troys 65 ) for several hours in the cold... I had to laugh at the look on your face when I got home and told you had a trunk full of spindles in a Fairlane! I guess that was almost as funny as Abby ( my lab ) jumping into the trunk.

See ya soon
Abby is awesome. She wasn't going to be denied. :) I was CERTAIN you were just screwing with me. Ill have to look closer at 22's pic to try and see what's going on there. I will probably just bring the tool AND a hammer next Saturday.


--

On a side note, so what is wrong about a pickle fork? "Troys 65" is a parts car, no need to worry about that hurting ball joints, I just don't want to hurt the spindles.
 

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The tool was a copy of the Ford special balljoint tool, not available and impossible to find. Uses 3/4-16 grade 8 capscrews and nuts. Well, the deep nut was grade 5.

You just loosen the nuts on the tapered balljoint pins, slip it on, adjust the length, and telescope it a bit longer with two wrenches.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
22,

Thanks again, is this how it works? I tried to draw a diagram...

 

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Here's a photo of the tool in action. I hammered on mine for a few days before dropping $4 for the parts to make the tool. The tool alone wasn't going to break it free though. I still had to whack the spindle while using the tool to put pressure on the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do I HAVE to take off the sway bar and strut rods for it to work?
 

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Thanks for posting, I'm going to make one.

My spindles are clean as a whistle and painted cast color. I'd hate to smart smacking them with a hammer.
 
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