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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I have always wanted a 1965 fastback but wanted some advice on what to pay.

1. the VIN says it’s a 1965 K code fast back
2. It’s not running (lots of parts removed from engine and in the car wait to be put on)
3. Lots of rust to worry about including floors and firewall (been outside for years)
4. Made to look like a GT but has the horizontal speedometer so I think that makes it clearly not a GT???
5. I live in the UK and it’s the first k fastback I’ve seen in ages.

What would you pay?

thanks so much!
 

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There are a ton of things to consider, not the least of which is the more-than-minimal chance that someone swapped a K-code vin onto a non-K car. That in and of itself is a huge thing to verify before going anywhere. You are correct that all GTs would have the 5 dial gauges, so I'd be pretty comfortable saying it's not a true GT (don't know why anyone would go back to a sweep gauge from the other). K-codes didn't have to be GTs, so that in and of itself doesn't mean it can't be a true K-code, but there are definitely some red flags based off what you're saying. I actually think a standard interior, non-GT K-code would be a really cool car...kind of the ultimate sleeper back in the day.

Based off what you've told us, I would stay a long ways away from that car unless I could absolutely verify the VIN and some other details. Others with more knowledge will come along and give you more advice I'm sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
There are a ton of things to consider, not the least of which is the more-than-minimal chance that someone swapped a K-code vin onto a non-K car. That in and of itself is a huge thing to verify before going anywhere. You are correct that all GTs would have the 5 dial gauges, so I'd be pretty comfortable saying it's not a true GT (don't know why anyone would go back to a sweep gauge from the other). K-codes didn't have to be GTs, so that in and of itself doesn't mean it can't be a true K-code, but there are definitely some red flags based off what you're saying. I actually think a standard interior, non-GT K-code would be a really cool car...kind of the ultimate sleeper back in the day.

Based off what you've told us, I would stay a long ways away from that car unless I could absolutely verify the VIN and some other details. Others with more knowledge will come along and give you more advice I'm sure.
Okay so I have always wanted a 1965 fastback but wanted some advice on what to pay.

1. the VIN says it’s a 1965 K code fast back
2. It’s not running (lots of parts removed from engine and in the car wait to be put on)
3. Lots of rust to worry about including floors and firewall (been outside for years)
4. Made to look like a GT but has the horizontal speedometer so I think that makes it clearly not a GT???
5. I live in the UK and it’s the first k fastback I’ve seen in ages.

What would you pay?

thanks so much!
There are a ton of things to consider, not the least of which is the more-than-minimal chance that someone swapped a K-code vin onto a non-K car. That in and of itself is a huge thing to verify before going anywhere. You are correct that all GTs would have the 5 dial gauges, so I'd be pretty comfortable saying it's not a true GT (don't know why anyone would go back to a sweep gauge from the other). K-codes didn't have to be GTs, so that in and of itself doesn't mean it can't be a true K-code, but there are definitely some red flags based off what you're saying. I actually think a standard interior, non-GT K-code would be a really cool car...kind of the ultimate sleeper back in the day.

Based off what you've told us, I would stay a long ways away from that car unless I could absolutely verify the VIN and some other details. Others with more knowledge will come along and give you more advice I'm sure.
I think I might be able to prove it’s a real K car. Willing to spend ££ to restore it but is it worth say £25k for matching block/body... (actually the interior is in good shape). I’m a be lit over eager as I’ve not seen one pop up in two years! (In the UK atleast)

thanks for the advice!
 

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It sounds like money pit to me due to the rust. Do you have the ability to replace all of the rusted metal? What will the non-original metal do to the value of the car?
Are all of the correct 289 HiPo parts there?
You could easily end up spending more money than the car would be worth.
 

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We're talking a serious bit here...... £25k
Let's take a step back. "Lots of rust" is not good. (obviously) If you know that's the situation...... there is WAY MORE rust than
what you already know about.
What's missing? Nearly anything engine related is pricey on a real K engine. Is the correct trans there? Is the correct rear end there?
Did I mention the rust? How are you handling that? Are you a professional coach/body guy? Having someone do that work is going to be
very pricey.
How good are your negotiating skills? I'm thinking they better be excellent and the seller has to be WILLING to negotiate as well.
 
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Been outside for years? That’s a problem. As mentioned already, there is much more rust than you can see. I would start by verifying the engine is original. The VIN should be stamped on the passenger side of the motor near the starter. What about the transmission? Can you pull the fenders to check the VIN stampings on the inner fenders? Next, I would see which of the K code specific parts are there, heads, carb, exhaust manifolds, distributor, harmonic balancer. If all of those are there and you’re prepared to embark on a multi-year restoration and spend around $50k US, I might go $20 to $25k US for the car. All of my costs may be a little more on your side of the pond. Good luck!
 

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Buy acar you can DRIVE now, a non rustbucket can usually be driven while it's being brought up to a higher level of quality.

Even if you have to pay shipping cost, it's likeLy a better idea to shop the USA for a car. More selection, better prices, and many many cars that are rust free. A rust free car can usually be restored without needing to sell your home or first-born to pay for the restoration. A rusty car is very difficult to restore without becoming upside down unless you do ALL the work yourself, and also don't mind waiting 2-10 years before driving it.

Z
 

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I'm pretty sure the total cost of the finished car will be higher than just buying an already restored similar car. Living in the EU vill just make the parts needed even more expensive to get. The only good reason to start such project is if you love the work and the challenge, or it's the only possible way to get exactly the car you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm thinking from feedback I'd probably be better off finding one in the US and shipping than starting from the current car. I didn't post pics but I think you've got the point it's a rust bucket.

Thanks all... very welcome feedback and I'm taking my excitement and going to apply it to a US purchase.
 

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I think I might be able to prove it’s a real K car. Willing to spend ££ to restore it but is it worth say £25k for matching block/body... (actually the interior is in good shape). I’m a be lit over eager as I’ve not seen one pop up in two years! (In the UK atleast)

thanks for the advice!
Half to 3/4 of that maybe a bit more would be OK if its ALLL there including matching engine that will turn. I could see a dreamer paying $20K USD easily to have one.
Consider what a really good one near you sells for.
How much will about 500 hours of labour cost.
Rebuld the engine
Paint the car. $$$
Without many choices you have to set the market. Offer What you're comfortable with for what you want.
 

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It sounds like money pit to me due to the rust. Do you have the ability to replace all of the rusted metal? What will the non-original metal do to the value of the car?
Are all of the correct 289 HiPo parts there?
You could easily end up spending more money than the car would be worth.
On a K code? A properly restored 65 FB K code could easily be worth USD$75,000.

I have seen some pretty pitiful cars brought back.

 

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...and people have done just as much actual work in the end on I6s or fugly c-code restomods.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I’ve decided to make a much lower offer providing I can prove chasis/trans/engine all match as I can handle the time/money to bring a true k code back from the dead.

If they won’t take the offer I’ll leave it to rust a bit more and hunt for US car to import.

pics attached as well.
737950
737951
737952
737953
737954
737955
737956
 

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Not much "Hipo" left of that hipo 289....... if it ever was. You're probably just buying a VIN which is how I look at it.
and the Shelby clone thing. Don't even get me started on that subject.
 

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Arm yourself with as much knowledge as you can like how to ID the heads and spots to point out rust the current owner might not even know about. Speak up about the bad but keep the good to yourself:) Like knock it for being a fake Shelby and what it will take to paint it the proper color but silent if you see it has the proper heads. Knock all those parts under the hood being gone even though they would need replaced anyway.
It has the wrong K valve covers but I think I see valve spring pockets Wrong distributor I think and all that Eddycrap on top would need to go to scrap for me.
.
A half baked resto started and abandoned, sad.
 

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Can't see the harmonic balancer very well, but it looks like the standard C/A code balancer. So, major engine work is required. The distributor and intake system are wrong, of course. Now you need to look at the trans and axle. If they are not the K items, that's 0/3 of the big ticket parts. All obtainable, of course, at a price.

And no, no spring pockets. It's probably an ordinary C code engine.

If it had them, you could see them easily. It doesn't even have screw-in studs.
 

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That said, if you've ever driven a K code, you'd want one. They are much more than the sum of their parts. I'm sentimentally attached to my A code, but mechanically it is entirely a K code, right down to stuff that barely matters.
 
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