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Discussion Starter #1
I have a smuthly running c-code 289 and C4 in my original black plated 65 vert. the engine has never been restored etc.

I have a possibility to get a smuthly running 302 with a C4 from a 1968 HT.

The engine bay need some finish work so I plan to take out the drive line and grind down the old paint, and repaint everything again etc.

I am not planing anything extrem, just some new internals, alloy inlet, other valvecovers and airfilter etc

Which engine would you rebuild - the 289 or 302?? or would you go 351 C??

What kind of work / tuning would you advice me to do on the engine??

My thought was to take out the 289 + C4 and put it a side for someday where I might sell the car again and the new owner prefere the original engine.

And the it didn´t matter so much how much money I put into the "new" engine.

Thanks for your time
Claus
 

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Externally, they look identical. Sounds like a good idea to me for you to yank the orig drive train and store it, while (ab)using the 302 for every day fun. the bonus is that it is pretty much a direct bolt in as a 351 (C or W) would require modifications and special components. Enjoy your 302!
 

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Setting aside a numbers matching drivetrain in favor of a hot-rodded transplant is never a bad idea. The 289 vs. 302 factor is moot -- 13 cubic inches (0.2 liters) is not that big a deal. But it would be a small tragedy to hot rod the OE motor and have a daylight seeking con rod punch a hole in the side.

As far as a 351 Cleveland, unless it's free you're better off with a 302 stroked to 347 or a 351 Windsor.

7
 

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Which engine would you rebuild - the 289 or 302
289, hands down, unless it has the '68 J code heads on the 302 (4v heads). The better compression of the 289 heads will more than offset the small gain in cubic inches of the 302 (only 13 cubic inches difference).

Now you could put the 289 heads on the 302 and have the best of both worlds.
 

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If money is not a problem, take the 302 and put a stroker kit with some new high performance heads on. the are tons of different kits out there.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If money is not a problem, take the 302 and put a stroker kit with some new high performance heads on....

I wouldn´t say that money isn´t a problem, but fun costs ;)

I am a bit new in this came, could you or someboby please tell me a little bit about a strokerkit,

What does it do?
Can I order a certain kit, and everything is in the "box"?
Where should I buy it?
How much is it?
What work has to be done on the engine by a proffesional toolshop? borre, planning etc.. ( I truly belive I and a friend have the skills to put things togehter )

Thanks
Claus
 

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I would first check the current bore size in both motors? I think that would better determine which one to build.

I have a 302 with 289 heads on my car and you can't even tell its not a 289. unless you checked the numbers by the starter.
 

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The 13 cubic inch difference comes from a longer stroke. The little bit longer stroke gives amazingly better low end torgue. Go with the 302, if you plan to drive the car. Go with the 289 if you plan to show or are concerned about resale value.
 

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Stroking an engine means you put in a new crank that has a longer throw, and then you put in shorter rods (and usually a shorter piston). This all ends up with the top of the piston in the same place at top dead center, but in a lower place at bottom dead center. Hence more cubic inches.

A 302 is a very mildly stroked 289. Blocks are the same, just the rods and crank are different.

The stroker kits that are out there contain all the parts you would need to change either engine into a 331 or a 347. If you need to bore the block a bit to get it back in tolerance (say .030, .040, or .060) then you'll end up with even more cubic inches.

My 289 is bored .060 over and the math says it is now a "298" - nine more cubic inches, :). So in theory if I stroked my engine I could get to a 356!

As has been mentioned the stroke length changes the characteristics of an engine. A shorter stroke means that you can safely go to a higher RPM for a given quality level of parts. A 289 will safely rev about 250 to 500 RPM further than just a 302. To compensate for this the stroker kits have to upgrade the quality of the rods, pistons, and crank in order to be able to get high enough RPM levels to have a lot of fun.

Unless you've got a "K" code car your engine and tranny do not have any VIN type numbers on them. All they've got is a date code. There is no way to prove they are the original items. All you can show a perspective buyers is that the date codes are consistent with the rest of the car.

John Harvey
 

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Claus,

One thing to be aware of with a stroker is the need for the engine to be balanced, as the kits you would buy will need it. Your machine shop may be able to do this for you, but they need to know that this engine is externally balanced.
 

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Start with the 302, put the 289 on the shelf with new oil everywhere. Original, smooth running engine is a plus, for example, here in Finland, we have to have at least 50% of original car, otherwise it will be retaxed (and you and I know what car tax can be) as new car and requires new car emissions and crash testing which can't be done of course. The engine is 15% and tranny 9%, pretty stupid.

Nothing extreme, but I strongly suggest roller engine and aluminium heads. Buy at least aluminium heads, you can use fairly mild cam with good heads. The budget will be bigger but so are the rewards compared to stock rebuild. The price of head work to stock heads is probably high also in Danmark, too.
 
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