Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was out driving the vert this week and after getting it up to 65 or so, I was slowing down coming ointo towna dn I started to hear this knocking... sounded like a playing card in the bicycle spokes we had growing up :) I just found out the the #5 cylinder is loose and the crank/bearings are probably shot. This is the original motor and I am focused on rebuilding it. Any help on cost estimates for doing it myself (parts) and having it done. I am in NoCal and would appreciate any advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,746 Posts
Your looking at about $2,200 for a quality long block rebuild in Nor Cal. I think having the long block done and doing the tope end makes the most sense, too much can go wrong on the bottom end, although I know many will disagree, but to me you don't save a lot of money as the machining is the big cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Gee, the price that they do these mild stroker engines are so darn reasonable, they come with warrenties and everything, I wouldn't do it my self. I'd take some input from guys here on VMF on where they got their's. JMHO Ken McCormack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
Umm,,,if your not concerned about the numbers-matching stuff,,i think i would REALLY consider looking in Jeg's catalog at a nice small block stroker with a warranty?,,Either in long-block variety,,or a short block with the new heads out there,,,pretty damn reasonable not to do it.I'm seriously looking at one of the 500 horse 460 gorillas to put into my 66 Ranch Wagon 7-Litre station wagon. I doubt that i can build one for that money,,and have all new state-of-the-art guts in it.Plus have it on my doorstep in 2 days!! Versus 2 or 3 Months from a shop.Those 302 and 351 strokers are really attractive for the money and labor/time saved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,963 Posts
My daydream is, get a 9.5" ("351") block, "race machined" by Howard Racing Components for about $700; a forged Eagle 408 stroker crank, I-beam rods, hyper pistons ($1530 at summit); and some CHI, AFD, or Kaase/Jeg's heads (approx $2000, depending). That's about $4000 for a 600 hp longblock. Another $2000-3000 for cam, ignition, induction, and exhaust. That's $6000-7000 all in.

Or

$6200 for a 351/385 hp FRRP crate (with no carb, exhaust, or ignition).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info. The motor is original, based on date codes, so I am definitely going to rebuild. I feel that 1800-2200 isn't bad, if the parts and machining are most of that. I am going to keep a pretty stock motor with the exception of a hardened valve seats and going from 10:1 to 9:1 in order to use the available fuel octanes. I just don't want to become another consumer that gets screwed on labor. I have a few really good mechanics that say they will help me through it and that "it is a rite of passage for any motorhead".
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top