Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Incorporated Sell Out
Joined
·
17,130 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so here is the deal.
This is my current drive train:
Full Motor Specs. (not blueprinted)

1970 4 bolt 351c block, Bored .04, Stroked to 410 cubes
Scat crank, Ross Racing Dished pistons, 10.5:1 compression
1972 4v closed heads, stock except for new double springs, and Crane Gold Roller Rockers.
Weiand Stealth 4v intake
Holley Street Avenger 770 cfm with Vac Sec and 2.25 x 14 filter and xtreme air lid
Milodin oil pump, pickup, windage tray and 9 quart pan
Weiand Aluminum High flow water pump
No PS, No PB
Underdrive single ‘V’ groove crank pulley, water pump pulley and alt pulley
Mechanical Fuel Pump
Cloyes Double Roller Timing
MSD Billet Aluminum Small Diameter Distributer
MSD Blaster III coil
MSD High Capacity Wires
MSD 6a box
Spal 16inch electric fan
Hydro lifters
Cam: http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=524551

AOD Dominator Transmission
11 inch 2200/2500 Stall Converter
3 inch OD Aluminum Drive shaft with 1310 Joints
9 inch Ford rear with 4.11 Precision Gear set and Trak Lok unit
255 40 17 Tires

The car dynoed at 290 RWHP and 335 ft/lbs

I have to tear it down this month because I have a bad bearing I need to replace. While in there I want to get some more percieved or actual performance.

First:
With the current set up, I have a 2200-2500 11 inch stall TC. When it locks up in 3rd, the car has amazing pull from 1300 or so and up so I think if I stay with the current combo I should drop the high stall and run a stock stall TC....what do the guru's think.

Second:
I am thinking a swapping in a larger cam. I am running zero deck and stock sized vavlves in the 4v closed. I want to stay hydro cam because the lack of contant tinkering on the rockers appeals to me. I would love a recommnedation on a cam either off the shelf or custom grind that would be bring my RWHP numbers up signifcantly.

Third:
If I swap in a larger cam, what will that do to my TC requirements

Additional info....as it is now, the car idle silky smooth at 800 RPM and if I had gone with a quieter exhasut system no one would even suspect that there is a 410 cubic inch motor in the car next to them. I am willing to give up the smooth idle and move into a more moderate lobey idle but really want to avoid an all out race idle since I did build this car to have a little bit of sleeper status to it (allthough some people say you can have a 65 mustang fastback and call it a sleeper).

Thank for any an all input. This site came highly recommneded as the best place to collect this answer from.
 

·
Incorporated Sell Out
Joined
·
17,130 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Didn't bother me at all Jay. I just wanted to stress to the "cleveland haters" out there that the problem, allthough an oiling issue, wasn't the historic oiling problem people are alwasy ranting about. Just a stupid crap out bad luck RTV gasket clog that could have happened to any motor at any time that was assembled using RTV for any mating surface. The stupid motor could have gone 50k with the RTV in the pan and never had a problem. It just decided to break at 500 miles ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,014 Posts
If you have not done it already bolt those motor mounts together, or weld 'em, or try the TCPs. Don't let the next thing be a block through the radiator.

You're after power, prep for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,894 Posts
Nick,

Sorry about the motor too..

(gosh knows if you've kept up with me this year you know I've blown up my fair share of stuff, so "welcome to the club" :p)

Anyway, if your really going to get the RPM (and power) from those heads you really should switch to solid lifters when you switch cams. They are not the "big deal" everyone talks about in terms of "constant adjustment". You can run the lash fairly tight and it'll be quiet enough to still be a "sleeper". You just need good rocker arm locks, ARP makes some great ones.

I saw you like to play over 6500 RPM (on the dyno) and Clevelands like that so that's my reason. With the added displacement of the stroker you should be pulling more torque out of the motor and making those heads breathe.

Many people forget how restrictive Cleveland heads are on the exhaust side. The exhaust flow turns more than 90 degrees just getting out of the head. Thats' why people raised the ports by sectioning the heads and installing a high port exhaust plate.

You'll never call me a Cleveland hater! Remember I have an older relative, a Boss 302.

Getcha' a solid cam!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Bigger cam.. use the potential already there.. Keep the converter as it is..

AJ
 

·
Supporting Vendor
Joined
·
3,961 Posts
I would stay with the TC you have. A biger cam will have a
higher idle and have a little less umph off the line. The guy
building my C is putting in a cam with .610 lift. Give comp cams
tech line a call and tell them what your looking for. They are
a great help. A solid lift cam is a good idea.

On the sleeper issue. You can have a loppy idle and still be
a sleeper. NO ONE is going to think you have a C in that car.
Put some glasspacks in front of the mufflers like I did and it'll
be super quiet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,960 Posts
For the cam and torque converter specs I'd call Scott at camresearch...

do a search here on vmf his number is in here somewhere....custom grinds and breaking em in are the game and power is the aim...

pretty good people.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,782 Posts
opentracker's already chimed in. He was who I was going to recommend for advice. Interestingly, I have also had strong recommendations from Comp Cams for providing that 'custom grind' advice...
Good luck and I'm dying to find out how this goes...
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top