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Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to find the source of a severe vibration in the drivetrain of my 65 Mustang which occurs at 60-70mph. After going through a process of elimination and not finding anything, I decided to pull the driveshaft from the C4 automatic. Just for kicks, I grabbed ahold of the splined output shaft sticking out of the tail housing and it actually wiggled back and forth about a 1/4 inch play either way. Is this normal? If not, what does this mean? Could this be the cause of the mysterious vibration I am getting? I have eliminated everything else...tires, front and rear wheel bearings, etc... The vibration does not occur when revving the engine in park, only when it is in drive. I even pulled the rear axles, put her up on jackstands, and let her rip up to 60mph and the vibration was still there. I also pulled the third member and it seems fine too. Has to be in the transmission or driveshaft.
 

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There is a bronze bushing in the trans tailshaft housing that supports the front drive shaft yoke. There is normally some play there, but not that much. Bushing can be replaced by removing drive shaft, supporting the trans with a jack under the pan (put something like a piece of wood between the pan and the jack), remove the speedo cable and rear motor mount. Unbolt the tailshaft housing and remove it, replace the bushing and reinstall.

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The driveshaft might out of balance and rebalancing costs about $40-50. Also, Mustangs Plus has aluminum driveshafts for $299. Good luck.

"What we have here is--failure to communicate."

67 GTA (clone) coupe soon to be 5.0L w/Edelbrock 1406
 

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WARNING: Mustang Plus's driveshafts aren't balanced like they claim they are.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
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Please provide more information. I am considering buying a MP driveshaft. Thanks.

"What we have here is--failure to communicate."

67 GTA (clone) coupe soon to be 5.0L w/Edelbrock 1406
 

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A transmission shop should have the equipment to replace the tailhousing bushing without removal of the tailhousing. A bad rear mount that has become oil-soaked and has deteriorated is also a source of vibration.

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Discussion Starter #7
I was about to purchase the aluminum driveshaft (from Mustang Plus) when I upgrade to an AOD in my '68. I too would be interested in any bad experiences with this aluminum driveshaft.

'68 Coupe, Modified 289 w/ Holley blower
'65 Convertible (future 66 Shelby GT350 clone)
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Peply to Stang67s post a few threads up:
I'm picking up the aluminum driveline I bought from Mustangs Plus from a driveline shop today. The driveshaft wasn't balanced as advertised. Instead of exchanging it for another driveline (which would probably be out of balance as well), I bit the bullet and had it balanced locally. They are damening it as well since Aluminum has the tendency to "sing" at high RPMs. I'd recommend buying the Ford Motorsport driveline for the late model, only $160, and having it shortened (I think its longer) and balanced. That will be about as expensive as the Mustang Plus driveline and you'll be sure its right.


Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Hello there,
I know that your post was over a month ago, I was just wondering if you came to a conclusion about what was happening? I am having similar problems and would greatly appreciate any light you can shed on the subject.
thank you
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