Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1969 and was replacing balls joint and strut rods. I got the Scott Drake LCA and Adjustable Strut Rods.
1. There is no instructions with the strut rods. Do they need bushings or not and if so what type?

2. The holes to the LCA are wider than the bolts provided for the adj. strut rods and the original Strut Rod bolts do not go trough the Adjustable strut rods.
WHAT TO DO???
Thank you
Tool Composite material Bicycle part Metal Auto part

White Gas Automotive exterior Auto part Bag
 

· Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It’s the hole for the LCA……
the LCA has 1/2” bolt holes, where’s as the new Adj. Strut Rod bolts are 7/16s. They provide 7/16s nylon nuts. But is that adequate to keep tight in a 1/2” hole???
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,637 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,341 Posts
I don’t like the looks of those bolts. I’d probably return them. But if you want to use them I’d consider getting some partially threaded 7/16 grade 8 bolts with the shank (or shoulder) the depth of the strut rod. (Like the stock bolts). Once torqued down I don’t think the strut is going to move on the LCA. But even if it did it would probably be to the front of the larger holes in the LCA and stay there. Maybe mark the 2 pieces to see if it moved. Then retorque the nuts after driving a bit
 

· Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah DonP, I agree. I was gonna replace them with grade 8.
I purchased them through Holley who bought SD.
They can’t answer the question as well and the Tech had no look containing SD. Their gonna look into it and call me today. Hopefully there’s a logical explanation.
I really like the look of the Adj Strut Rod and it was at a good price.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Find a piece a thin walled tube that fits outside the bolts and inside the holes in the control arm. Cut 4 rings and call it "problem" fixed. Aftermarket parts seems to always only be 95% right, the last 5% are DIY work..
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,740 Posts
It looks like the metal on the end of the strut rod that bolts to the lower control arm is about as wide as factory. If that is the case I would drill out the 7/16" holes in the strut rods to 1/2" and use the old strut rod bolts. The engineers designed it for a 1/2" bolt, i would not go smaller.

The new strut rods will have zero "cushion" for the load. Do not rely on torqueing a 7/16" nut to keep the bolt centered in a 1/2" hole.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
46,103 Posts
I'd grab the strut rods and take them to a machine shop, with 4 1/2-20 wheel lugs of the appropriate length, and have the holes resized and the lugs pressed in from the top and use a flat washer under new self-locking nuts on the underside of the LCA.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,740 Posts
Understood- I don’t have a drill press, just a drill, bits and step bit.
The strut rod is 3/8s thick.
What would be preferred.
Thank you
Buy a 1/2" bit. It will be $7 well spent. A hand drill is okay as long as you can hold it reasonably plumb.

Thickness is not what I meant. By width I meant the flat dimension across the face with the holes. My concern would be to have roughly the same amount of material from the edge of the hole to the side of the bar.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,510 Posts
^^^^^^ There's your answer right there. Send back the typical substandard Scott Drake garbage and go with a vendor who makes quality parts for our cars, and who is an active member here who answers questions and uses his own parts on his vehicle. If scott drake cheaped out on the bolts, what else was manufactured on the cheap side?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,549 Posts
^^^^^^ There's your answer right there. Send back the typical substandard Scott Drake garbage and go with a vendor who makes quality parts for our cars, and who is an active member here who answers questions and uses his own parts on his vehicle. If scott drake cheaped out on the bolts, what else was manufactured on the cheap side?
This, and the added time, frustration and nuts, bolts, tools, grinding, drilling doesn’t add up to savings $50. How much is your time worth?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,510 Posts
This, and the added time, frustration and nuts, bolts, tools, grinding, drilling doesn’t add up to savings $50. How much is your time worth?
Just did a price comparison. The scott drake adjustable strut rods and LCAs cost about $512 not including tax and shipping. The SoT adjustable strut rods and Opentracker LCAs are $550 excluding tax and shipping. I included Opentracker LCAs because SoT doesn't list a stock-type LCA on their website...just the tubular ones. Unless the OP got a real good price on the scott drake stuff, the advertised stuff is only $38 less than the better quality parts that are out there. That's not counting the time chasing down correctly sized hardware and trying to find instructions.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,327 Posts
And if you have any questions or concerns Shaun is right here to back up his product v "Paging Scott Drake!" Lol. kip
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,486 Posts
Our 68-73 Strut Rods use 1/2" hardware. Oh, and they are made in the USA. (y)

I got them and they rock. No fitment issues. Send back the Drake ones and get these. Can't go wrong with anything from Street or Track.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
892 Posts
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top