[DrKo]

Hello all, I recently bought this car, and I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to this stuff, but I am trying to learn on my own with little help.
Currently, my biggest issue is when I start the car, the belt slips and makes an awful squealing sound until I take it out of gear and move it for a bit; after about 2-3mins, the squeal stops, even in idle.

I had a buddy look at it, and we concluded that the previous owner put the wrong set of pulleys/brackets on.
My biggest problem is finding the correct set to buy online for how this engine has been built or if it's even 100% the issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[awhtx]

It looks to me like the alternator belt is too narrow. Like it's a 3/8" wide belt and it needs to be a 1/2" wide belt. It is running too low in the pulleys. The belt should "grab" the pulley on it's sides, not the bottom.

 

[DrKo]

It looks to me like the alternator belt is too narrow. Like it's a 3/8" wide belt and it needs to be a 1/2" wide belt. It is running too low in the pulleys. The belt should "grab" the pulley on it's sides, not the bottom.

Alright, right on, any good places/examples online of what I should be looking for to buy and solve this issue?

 

[GradyStang]

In addition to what awhtx said, you could also very quickly and easily try a belt conditioner first to see if that makes the squeaking go away. There are dozens of products out there that you could try and a Google search would likely pull up way more information than what you'd need but here's a suggestion from me below. Also, I wouldn't be driving the car without the Monte Carlo bar and export brace on there, as you don't want your inner fenders compressing inward.

https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/p/crc-belt-conditioner-7-5oz/55909_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:19502231967&&CATARGETID=120054150001287365&CADevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsbL7iJrk_QIVKAitBh0d9QpWEAQYASABEgK3x_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[D10E]

Welcome to the forum!
Have you checked the belts to make sure they are tight?
Do you have a parts store near you? Ideally one that's been there forever, has ashtrays on the counter, has a dog that lives inside, and with an old parts guy or mechanic who knows what to match up?
Take the old belt in and have them match the length but with a wider belt.
Also-if that car starts to overheat this summer at idle in gear, put a fan shroud on it before you chase anything else.

 

[kkupec02]

welcome

 

[Flade]

We need a side picture to understand what you really have. It looks like you might be missing a belt. Complicating things is a non Ford power steering pump that doesn’t line up correctly and the wrong pulleys for a basic engine with just Power steering. It would appear that this engine was originally a California car with the a Thermactor emissions control system as I believe that was the only configuration to use the 3 sheave pulley on the water pump

It should probably look like this.

All the correct pulleys are available with a little searching

 

[BW66]

Alright, right on, any good places/examples online of what I should be looking for to buy and solve this issue?

I bought all my belts from a local auto parts store.

 

[Hipojoe1]

Your belts sit way too low in the grooves. Get the proper wider belts as mentioned they will grip the sides of the belt better and adjust for proper tension, your troubles will be in your rear view mirror. Good Luck!

 

[Woodchuck]

Make sure the belt is the proper length. In your photo it looks like the alternator is near the end of its adjustment "swing". Ideally, with a new belt it should be near the opposite end.

 

[DrKo]

We need a side picture to understand what you really have. It looks like you might be missing a belt. Complicating things is a non Ford power steering pump that doesn’t line up correctly and the wrong pulleys for a basic engine with just Power steering. It would appear that this engine was originally a California car with the a Thermactor emissions control system as I believe that was the only configuration to use the 3 sheave pulley on the water pump

It should probably look like this.

View attachment 886745

All the correct pulleys are available with a little searching

 

[Flade]

If the pulleys match and line up I would move the power steering belt back one sheave so that it goes around the crank, water pump and power steering pump.

 

[sixtysevenGTconv]

Welcome, being new to new to stangs, here's one mustang vendor that also has what you need, now & later.
I have a book with correct part casting numbers for each application if you'd like me to post.

1965-1973 Mustang Restoration Belts Parts - National Parts Depot

Shop Belts for your classic 1965-1973 Mustang at NPDLink.com! Free shipping over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing!

www.npdlink.com

 

[jjousma22]

A different comment... there is a serious kink in your coolant hose going from your intake to your water pump as well.

 

[GypsyR]

That's just his heater core "bypass" hose. I would assume he has leaking heater core issues. Though it would look funny, that hose could be tied in a knot with no harm done. The kink isn't an issue.

 

[GradyStang]

Sounds kinky...

 

[Woodchuck]

A different comment... there is a serious kink in your coolant hose going from your intake to your water pump as well.

That's actually a good thing. In fact, it would be much better if the hose was blocked completely. When you bypass the heater core in this manner all you do is dump hot coolant right back into the engine. When it's plugged off that coolant is forced to exit the engine via the thermostat and passes through the radiator. If bypassing the heater is a "long term fix" the best thing to do would be to remove the heater elbow in the intake manifold and install a pipe plug, and install a rubber cap over the water pump inlet.

 

[jjousma22]

That's actually a good thing. In fact, it would be much better if the hose was blocked completely. When you bypass the heater core in this manner all you do is dump hot coolant right back into the engine. When it's plugged off that coolant is forced to exit the engine via the thermostat and passes through the radiator. If bypassing the heater is a "long term fix" the best thing to do would be to remove the heater elbow in the intake manifold and install a pipe plug, and install a rubber cap over the water pump inlet.

I certainly don't know it all, but I appreciate getting to some new knowledge through the forum... the factory certainly doesn't do everything right!

 

[poqman]

I don't know what amperage alternator that is, but some of the high output alternators need a dual pulley to keep from squealing.

 

[DrKo]

That's actually a good thing. In fact, it would be much better if the hose was blocked completely. When you bypass the heater core in this manner all you do is dump hot coolant right back into the engine. When it's plugged off that coolant is forced to exit the engine via the thermostat and passes through the radiator. If bypassing the heater is a "long term fix" the best thing to do would be to remove the heater elbow in the intake manifold and install a pipe plug, and install a rubber cap over the water pump inlet.

If the pulleys match and line up I would move the power steering belt back one sheave so that it goes around the crank, water pump and power steering pump.

Thanks, everyone for the help/replies!
Would it be feasible/possible for someone learning, to buy a new/correct pulley+bracket/belt setup and redo it?
The current setup does not seem good, and the pulleys don't align in the correct manner for the correct belt setup.