Yep. Same name! See you in the Summer hopefully!
Need some serious advice folks.
Okay. Bit of a story first. Car is a 1967 GT fastback. I bought it out of GA USA after looking for a while for a good solid car i could buy and enjoy My goal was to get a nice solid car that had some looks and drove well. I paid top dollar for a car with the right options and seemingly correct condition. What i got on the other hand was this Well here's the rub
The good.
Factory red GT with tach dash. Upper and lower consoles and other assorted goodies
As far as I can tell after gutting the interior for a look see the shell itself is very solid with perfect original floors and great condition in most all usual problem areas. Firewall, trunk floor, below rear glass perfect
Decent running highly detailed incorrect year (1966) 4bbl engine. 289 with pony restored correct carb. Alloy cobra intake. 4 speed.
Well detailed driver car both underneath and in the engine bay.
Interior vary nice
Reams of receipts for new parts. New suspension and all trim
The bad
Front crossmember bent to hell but no damage to frame rails or surrounding metal. Definitely needs replaced.
Drivers side inner fender has been wrinkled. Not horrid but needs massaging. With this it would not hurt to replace front panel as top edge is damaged and would allow for access to the inner fender
Paint is a 20 year old job. It was good in the day but is now a ten footer. Well applied with no overspray but scratched and chipped
Engine sounds and looks great but not powerful at all. Car came with a dyno sheet showing 165 flywheel HP which I am told is about right for a stock 4bbl 289
Doors are crap. I have new ones coming over as these are patched but not repairable to a correct level
Hood is wrong for a delux exterior car. I have a new one coming over
Rear quarters have a small amount of bondo at the very back edge along the wheel well
Steering box is both incorrect ratio and sloppy. Have a re built box coming over.
Front quarters although very solid vintage units are not original to the car and have filled mustang script holes. You can't see them from the exterior but I knw they are there
Seats are non comfortweave but should be so I assume they were recovered at a time the material was not available.
Okay. Still with me?.
I have quite a bit of money in the car at this point. Well over 40k US and probably closer to 45 with the parts I have bought. (remember I had to ship and pay taxes on it).
Where I am a now is that I am both unhappy with the performance, the paint and the body issues on the car. I could pay to get the, corrected but it pains me to do so as I was after a car that did not need this done ( an inspection is cheap insurance folks although a friend had an inspection on his and has similar problems)
The thing I don't want to do is get critically buried financially in the car. I am happy to get a foot buried but don't want to go the whole 6 feet I have done it before and it's not a fun place to be. I know some will say its a hobby and life is short but going at it the way I am I will have 50k united kingdom pounds in the car and that's just foolish. That would be a stroker motor. Body and paint.
Okay. I currently have a stroker motor on order and was going to sort out the body and paint in the future. The motor build has not been started so I can redirect if needed
The new motor was going to be 7k pounds which is approx 10,500 USD. now I have had 20k USD ngines built in the past but I am now thinking I could either order a 302 based short block from the staes or better yet do some work on the current 289 to wake it up and then not have to deal with selling the current engine or changing the current exhaust at large expense for the stroker I had planned.
I am thinking I could freshen up the current engine. Do the bits of body work and stay more within budget.
If you read on this long I appreciate it. I have done so many projects that I am a bit gun shy at this point in regards to just writing checks.
Any comments or suggestions on how to move forward most welcome. Thanks folks. Peter
The good.
Factory red GT with tach dash. Upper and lower consoles and other assorted goodies
As far as I can tell after gutting the interior for a look see the shell itself is very solid with perfect original floors and great condition in most all usual problem areas. Firewall, trunk floor, below rear glass perfect
Decent running highly detailed incorrect year (1966) 4bbl engine. 289 with pony restored correct carb. Alloy cobra intake. 4 speed.
Well detailed driver car both underneath and in the engine bay.
Interior vary nice
Reams of receipts for new parts. New suspension and all trim
The bad
Front crossmember bent to hell but no damage to frame rails or surrounding metal. Definitely needs replaced.
Drivers side inner fender has been wrinkled. Not horrid but needs massaging. With this it would not hurt to replace front panel as top edge is damaged and would allow for access to the inner fender
Paint is a 20 year old job. It was good in the day but is now a ten footer. Well applied with no overspray but scratched and chipped
Engine sounds and looks great but not powerful at all. Car came with a dyno sheet showing 165 flywheel HP which I am told is about right for a stock 4bbl 289
Doors are crap. I have new ones coming over as these are patched but not repairable to a correct level
Hood is wrong for a delux exterior car. I have a new one coming over
Rear quarters have a small amount of bondo at the very back edge along the wheel well
Steering box is both incorrect ratio and sloppy. Have a re built box coming over.
Front quarters although very solid vintage units are not original to the car and have filled mustang script holes. You can't see them from the exterior but I knw they are there
Seats are non comfortweave but should be so I assume they were recovered at a time the material was not available.
Okay. Still with me?.
I have quite a bit of money in the car at this point. Well over 40k US and probably closer to 45 with the parts I have bought. (remember I had to ship and pay taxes on it).
Where I am a now is that I am both unhappy with the performance, the paint and the body issues on the car. I could pay to get the, corrected but it pains me to do so as I was after a car that did not need this done ( an inspection is cheap insurance folks although a friend had an inspection on his and has similar problems)
The thing I don't want to do is get critically buried financially in the car. I am happy to get a foot buried but don't want to go the whole 6 feet I have done it before and it's not a fun place to be. I know some will say its a hobby and life is short but going at it the way I am I will have 50k united kingdom pounds in the car and that's just foolish. That would be a stroker motor. Body and paint.
Okay. I currently have a stroker motor on order and was going to sort out the body and paint in the future. The motor build has not been started so I can redirect if needed
The new motor was going to be 7k pounds which is approx 10,500 USD. now I have had 20k USD ngines built in the past but I am now thinking I could either order a 302 based short block from the staes or better yet do some work on the current 289 to wake it up and then not have to deal with selling the current engine or changing the current exhaust at large expense for the stroker I had planned.
I am thinking I could freshen up the current engine. Do the bits of body work and stay more within budget.
If you read on this long I appreciate it. I have done so many projects that I am a bit gun shy at this point in regards to just writing checks.
Any comments or suggestions on how to move forward most welcome. Thanks folks. Peter
41 - 44 of 44 Posts
That seam I fixated on for ages. It was my number one concern from the photos. Turns out it is perfect. For some reason it looked funny in the pics The torque box is fine. It has what looks like a bite out of it where it meets the rail but I had another car with this same feature and others in the mistang hobby have said the same. Seems they nibbled at them to fit them at the factory. That's what I am telling myself anyway. I can not see any evidence of that part being replaced. The frame rail jack damage is quite common and does not bother me as it can be fairly easily fixed. The inside of the quarters is paint over soundproof spray or sealant. Not rust. The bondo area is not shown. It is immediately behind the rear wheel tight to the wheel arch lip. He took pains to not show the damaged front crossmember or the front lower corners of the doors with their telltale thickness showing patches and the paint quality looks great in the photos but it is polished almost through in places as well as full of age and raid rash related defect. I have not mentioned the cowl full of wet crap but that can be any stang. Oh or the bent up late model car los that were made to work as door lamps behing the grills (he could not have known of this) I am thinking I will do the rear gear and do the heads and cam and other assorted bits to the engine as that is certainly a nice appearing part of the car. Shame to replace that entirely. Cheers. Peter
I am currently living in germany and I can attest to junk mustangs being sold for way to much... There is a soldier here trying to sell a fake(coupe at that) gt350 that is prob about as rusted out as mine is for like 15k.
I just read what I posted and what I ment to say is I can attest to people trying to take advantage of the fact that they didnt really sell mustangs in other countries.
41 - 44 of 44 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Vintage Mustang Forums
A forum community dedicated to vintage Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, modifications, NOS parts, troubleshooting, VIN codes, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Woodchuck
641 Replies
awhtx
227 Replies
myfirstcar66
189 Replies
