Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got my 200ci 6cyl back from the machine shop where I had it basically rebuilt. It's currently on the engine stand and mostly reassembled, oil pan and valve cover attached. I started today to tape off the sections and ports that I didn't want to get any paint on and couldn't get any of the tape to stic so I could mask it off. Tried 2 different roles of the blue painter's tape as well as regular masking tape but couldn't get it to stick long enough to spray. Any tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It's a 66 so my understanding is most everything should get painted Ford blue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,674 Posts
Block all openings, spray it with degreaser, scrub, hose down or hit it with a pressure washer, then use compressed air to dry immediately. After the machine work and assembly it is likley you have contamination on the surfaces...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
if the tape is not sticking
than the surface is not clean!

here is my son's engine
we basically wired brushed the entire engine
(this took several hours)
then air blew it off
then wiped the engine down with 330 cleaner
then taped off everything we did not want to get painted
this takes a lot of time!
but is worth it.
preparation takes 99% of the time
and painting takes 1%

we used Engine Enamal from DupliColor
primer greay 1st and then Old Ford Blue

here is a picture
iowa

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
after primer

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
sure
iowa

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
A little trick I learned a long time ago about masking off the cast iron area's. Once the tape is in place you can tap around the edges with a hammer and it will cut the tape for you and you peel off the access. You can also do this on aluminum but ever so lightly to make the imprint and then cut it away with razor blade. I always have a rag with laquer thinner handy and wipe off any overspray as I paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,874 Posts
if the tape is not sticking
than the surface is not clean!

here is my son's engine
we basically wired brushed the entire engine
(this took several hours)
then air blew it off
then wiped the engine down with 330 cleaner
then taped off everything we did not want to get painted
this takes a lot of time!
but is worth it.
preparation takes 99% of the time
and painting takes 1%
I agree. Use rags, cleaning solvent, old toothbrush, whatever it takes, to get absolutely clean. When I last painted my engine, I spent at least 90% of the job cleaning it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
Something I did't mention earlier is that I debir my engine blocks when preping for paint. I plug every hole in it and use files,flat and round along with assorted grinding wheels and smooth all the edges. I think that it looks better and lessens the area's that trap dirt and grease. The other plus is that I don't cut and scrape my hands as much when working on the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the feedback. The shop put everything in the tank and it looks clean as a pin. It's possible it has a film on it that you can't see or feel. I'll spend some time today wiping it down with brake cleaner or something that will remove any residue. The 99% vs 1% makes sense but I think I was thinking the shop had done a fair amount of the 99%. error on my part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
When you get done we want to see pics something like this. This one was actually done in the car. You can probably tell but it did come out nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,172 Posts
I have painted a couple engines with high pigment paint, and I'm really happy so far with the results.

My coupe I used engine paint purchased through POR15 at the time.

The '67 I went with Bill Hirsch engine enamel. Very good paint.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,320 Posts
Painting an engine as we speak (Z motor for an Austin Healey). I know what you mean about getting that blue tape to stick. I used duct tape and aluminium foil to mask all those bendy areas. Worked like a champ.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
As you probably noticed, the green masking tape is what to use. Blue tape is used for painting around the house. Yes it's more expensive, and surface needs to be clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,778 Posts
remember the machine shop would have cleaned the block, then would've bored, honed, etc during which they would soak her down good with oil. Then reassembled with assembly lube and more oil. So it is clean (but nowhere close for painting) Wipe it with laquer thinner and a clean rag- I bet you find a lot of black residue. Cast parts also can soak up oil- so clean, clean more and then clean more. Clean till your rag no longer picks up dirt- pay special attention to nooks, crannys and bolt holes. If the rag leaves fuzzies- use a small blue torch to lightly burn them off, blow thoroughly- then paint.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top