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If Mustang has no hidden vins, the either the front end was replaced or something is fishy. No ifs ands or buts. Sure errors were done on vins but total lack did not come from factory mistake. I will also add the factory with most mistakes made was the Metuchen plant. They must have put the guy with hangover on vins stamping punch.
 

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Lets start with the basics. For the 1967 model year, the "legal" VIN was stamped on the driver's side front apron and is typically visible through the cut out on left front fender mounting flange. The door tag is NOT the legal VIN and even contains the admonition "Not for title or registration purposes" Typically "hidden VINs were also stamped on the left and right side fender aprons and NOT visible unless the fenders are unbolted. If your car has no visible stamped VINs you bought a car from someone who has no way of proving he is the lawful owner. If it is not already apparent, you have no proof that you are the lawful owner of that car. I suggest you stop putting money and labor into it until you sort out ownership documentation.

If you are lucky, your state will assign a new legal VIN for that car. If you are not so lucky, and law enforcement determines that the circumstances are "fishy", your car may be impounded and you may have to explain why you are in possession of a car with no legal VIN. Despite differing opinions on this topic, It is illegal to deface or remove a legal VIN. The common assumption is the car was stolen and the thief or chop shop tried to avoid criminal consequences for possessing a stolen car by removing all unique identifying marks rendering the car untraceable.

Depending upon how much of a hole you are willing to dig yourself out of, one solution is to return the car and get your money back. Despite the notion that possession is 9/10th of the law, it isn't. Caveat Emptor.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, I took the driver fender off, and it looks like someone welded metal on top of where the VIN would be to hang the fender on. I tried to take the top layer of metal off, but did not see a VIN under the top layer.
 

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Ok, I took the driver fender off, and it looks like someone welded metal on top of where the VIN would be to hang the fender on. I tried to take the top layer of metal off, but did not see a VIN under the top layer.
Wow. Try looking from underneath, some stampings can be seen that way. Hopefully you won't see where a couple of sections have been cut out and removed, that would be bad. Then see what the deal is under the passenger side fender. I wouldn't despair quite yet.
 

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Somebody went to a LOT of trouble to hide or dispose of the VIN on the driver side...drum roll for what you find on the passenger side.
 
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That whole flange looks like it was replaced and booger welded. Yikes.
 

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Are you sure you really want to own that car? Considering what you've already found I'd hate to see the rest of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Are you sure you really want to own that car? Considering what you've already found I'd hate to see the rest of the car.
These cars are so hard to find now, and the costs are so high, this was the only way I could get one. The car is in very bad shape, so I wanted to make sure I could get a tag and the car was not stolen before I started spending large amounts of money on it. I have restored serval cars at home for my personal use, not to sale.
Thanks
Dave
 

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These cars are so hard to find now, and the costs are so high...
How do you figure? Not to be argumentative, but classic Mustangs in particular are everywhere and comparatively affordable to most other classics, especially since parts are so readily available.
 

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Does the passenger side look that bad? You should be able to look at the underside of the inner fender on the passenger side to see if there is a VIN stamp before you go pulling the fender off. Maybe you'll be lucky and all the prior damage was on the driver side (since that driver side inner fender is bad and the driver door was replaced).
 
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How do you figure? Not to be argumentative, but classic Mustangs in particular are everywhere and comparatively affordable to most other classics, especially since parts are so readily available.
It absolutely is the best value for a classic of that era. For a clean one it’s getting harder but not like Mopars from that era. There are some deals but Fastbacks in particular are becoming less available for something that’s not totally hammered for under $20k. A lot of the guys here on VMF are unrealistically low (compared to some that are unrealistically high that are selling) about market values. We aren’t that far from plain Jane $20k C code coupe drivers. That’s still better than what many other iconic classics cost.
 

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It absolutely is the best value for a classic of that era. For a clean one it’s getting harder but not like Mopars from that era. There are some deals but Fastbacks in particular are becoming less available for something that’s not totally hammered for under $20k. A lot of the guys here on VMF are unrealistically low (compared to some that are unrealistically high that are selling) about market values. We aren’t that far from plain Jane $20k C code coupe drivers. That’s still better than what many other iconic classics cost.
My buddy built a beautiful kustom 57 Chrysler New Yorker. You wouldn't believe what he had to go through to make that happen. Suffice it to say, he could have 2 or 3 really nice classic Mustangs for the time and money he put into that car. Basically no repro parts. The bill just for rechroming things made me ill.
 

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finish stripping the top layer of sheet metal off of the original aprons and see what you have to work with. if / when you restore the care you will want to correct all of that then anyway. you never know, you may find the fastback vin underneath. i know the inner aprons are prone to rusting out on the top where the factory sheet metal overlaps so this may have been a repair of sorts. Not the way i would have approached the repair but you never know. Report back and let us know what you find.
 

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I am seeing driver fastbacks in the southeast for less than 20k up to 40k depending on engine, completeness, etc and some fastback rollers in the low to high teens.
 

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Ok, I took the driver fender off, and it looks like someone welded metal on top of where the VIN would be to hang the fender on. I tried to take the top layer of metal off, but did not see a VIN under the top layer.
Not sure what your looking for behind the shock tower. Need to get the passenger fender off and check forward of the shock tower. Unfortunately these panels are often replaced due to accident or replacement of a rusty battery box area :(

Posting where the car us suppose to have been built (may have missed it in all the replies) and posting the VIN (you can leave off the last two numbers so no one could confirm the VIN is your car if your concerned moving forward. These would allow others to help and focus on just other examples built at the same plant and year rather than getting a mix of "were the VIN should be located" from other years and plants


Good luck - not starting out well
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Not sure what your looking for behind the shock tower. Need to get the passenger fender off and check forward of the shock tower. Unfortunately these panels are often replaced due to accident or replacement of a rusty battery box area :(

Posting where the car us suppose to have been built (may have missed it in all the replies) and posting the VIN (you can leave off the last two numbers so no one could confirm the VIN is your car if your concerned moving forward. These would allow others to help and focus on just other examples built at the same plant and year rather than getting a mix of "were the VIN should be located" from other years and plants


Good luck - not starting out well
Yes I pulled the right and left fender off and this is what I found. Metal welded on top.
 

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So it appears your car doesn’t have a single VIN on the vehicle itself (door doesn’t count), right? Do you have a title with a VIN (sorry if you mentioned already and I missed)?
 
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