By the way will be posting pics soon when the hood is back on and the brake lines are complete
Nervous incident with lucinda
So yesterday i rebuilt my carb. It is a motorcraft 2100 so very easy to rebuild. However today i tried starting up the car. I tried starting the car before i rebuilt the carb but she wouldnt turn over. Today she turned over and the first time it sounded like the engine whined and then died out. I assumed because it just needed to get gas back in the carburetor. So we tried again and i saw the fuel filter fill up and then it turned over again and died immediately. I tried starting it for the third time and it turned over but right when that happened the carburetor blew a huge fireball to the ceiling of the garage. I dont really want to start it again or even know if it is safe to try again. Halp lol
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Okay. The throttle cable has already been mentioned so....
Not mentioned. Vacuum hose that appears to be running from the carburetor air horn rear to the vacuum tree at the back of the intake. Remove this hose and plug the port on the vacuum tree. With it connected the way you have it you are just creating a vacuum leak. That port on the carburetor air horn is used with a hot air choke to provide filtered air to the choke thermostat. Since you're running an electric choke you don't need it.
While we're on the subject of the electric choke... where is it connected? If you have it hooked to the coil circuit, either at the coil+ or the starter solenoid "I" wire, move it to the alternator stator post. It doesn't look like the choke ever closes, either. Does it? If you have an ohmmeter, also check the choke thermostat housing's continuity to ground so if current IS going to the choke it has a ground path.
Did you use a new base gasket? Did you disturb the gasket BELOW the EGR spacer?
Hint: you can "pre-fill" the float bowl through the vent(s) prior to starting so you won't be cranking and cranking and cranking trying to fill the float bowl.
Not mentioned. Vacuum hose that appears to be running from the carburetor air horn rear to the vacuum tree at the back of the intake. Remove this hose and plug the port on the vacuum tree. With it connected the way you have it you are just creating a vacuum leak. That port on the carburetor air horn is used with a hot air choke to provide filtered air to the choke thermostat. Since you're running an electric choke you don't need it.
While we're on the subject of the electric choke... where is it connected? If you have it hooked to the coil circuit, either at the coil+ or the starter solenoid "I" wire, move it to the alternator stator post. It doesn't look like the choke ever closes, either. Does it? If you have an ohmmeter, also check the choke thermostat housing's continuity to ground so if current IS going to the choke it has a ground path.
Did you use a new base gasket? Did you disturb the gasket BELOW the EGR spacer?
Hint: you can "pre-fill" the float bowl through the vent(s) prior to starting so you won't be cranking and cranking and cranking trying to fill the float bowl.
I recently watched a guy trying to start up his Boss 302 and he was throwing flames out his carburetor. The car ran fine when he got it to the show, and nothing changed. After a few tries, he ended up pulling his distributor cap and found the inside contacts pretty gunked up. He pulled out a pocket knife and scraped all the contacts clean as he could get them. Put distributor cap back on, and the engine fired right up. He said it wasn't as smooth as he liked, but he left the show with no issues. Just another suggestion to check.
So the vacuum tree on the back of the intake has two ports shall i just plug them both? And since im removing the hose do i just completely get rid of that hose then? The choke im pretty sure is connected to the starter solenoid. Tomorrow i will move it to the alternator stator post. Also yes the choke does close but seems to open fairly quickly i think i just need to adjust that. I do not have an ohmmeter but im sure i can get one from someone. Yes all gaskets involving the carburetor are new. By “prefill” you mean pouring gas into the carb? The few times i tried starting it there should be plenty of fuel in the bowl. Thank you by the way everybody for helping me with this i truly appreciate it. Ima 22 year old just spending money and trying to get his mustang to work so this all helps.Okay. The throttle cable has already been mentioned so....
Not mentioned. Vacuum hose that appears to be running from the carburetor air horn rear to the vacuum tree at the back of the intake. Remove this hose and plug the port on the vacuum tree. With it connected the way you have it you are just creating a vacuum leak. That port on the carburetor air horn is used with a hot air choke to provide filtered air to the choke thermostat. Since you're running an electric choke you don't need it.
While we're on the subject of the electric choke... where is it connected? If you have it hooked to the coil circuit, either at the coil+ or the starter solenoid "I" wire, move it to the alternator stator post. It doesn't look like the choke ever closes, either. Does it? If you have an ohmmeter, also check the choke thermostat housing's continuity to ground so if current IS going to the choke it has a ground path.
Did you use a new base gasket? Did you disturb the gasket BELOW the EGR spacer?
Hint: you can "pre-fill" the float bowl through the vent(s) prior to starting so you won't be cranking and cranking and cranking trying to fill the float bowl.
With trying to get my timing reset or corrected ill definitely be cleaning the contacts under the cap. I cant even remember the last time i saw the inside of the distributor.I recently watched a guy trying to start up his Boss 302 and he was throwing flames out his carburetor. The car ran fine when he got it to the show, and nothing changed. After a few tries, he ended up pulling his distributor cap and found the inside contacts pretty gunked up. He pulled out a pocket knife and scraped all the contacts clean as he could get them. Put distributor cap back on, and the engine fired right up. He said it wasn't as smooth as he liked, but he left the show with no issues. Just another suggestion to check.
Harbor Freight has their cheap volt-ohm meter for $6 or free if you find the right coupon in the mail or a magazine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
They might not be the world's greatest meters, but I have a couple and they'll definitely work for what you need here, and it's really hard to beat free.
If you can't find the ad for a free one you can always use the 20% off coupon too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
They might not be the world's greatest meters, but I have a couple and they'll definitely work for what you need here, and it's really hard to beat free.
If you can't find the ad for a free one you can always use the 20% off coupon too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
Yes, eliminate the hose and cap the ports you don't use. If you don't have power brakes, automatic transmission or a/c you don't need anything connected to the vacuum tree. Yes, filling the carb with gas. It takes quite a while as anyone of us old farts who have ever run out of gas on the highway can tell you....So the vacuum tree on the back of the intake has two ports shall i just plug them both? And since im removing the hose do i just completely get rid of that hose then? The choke im pretty sure is connected to the starter solenoid. Tomorrow i will move it to the alternator stator post. Also yes the choke does close but seems to open fairly quickly i think i just need to adjust that. I do not have an ohmmeter but im sure i can get one from someone. Yes all gaskets involving the carburetor are new. By “prefill” you mean pouring gas into the carb? The few times i tried starting it there should be plenty of fuel in the bowl. Thank you by the way everybody for helping me with this i truly appreciate it. Ima 22 year old just spending money and trying to get his mustang to work so this all helps.
Well hell yea thanks for that i actually need more tools so that coupon will be coming in handy thank you.Harbor Freight has their cheap volt-ohm meter for $6 or free if you find the right coupon in the mail or a magazine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
They might not be the world's greatest meters, but I have a couple and they'll definitely work for what you need here, and it's really hard to beat free.
If you can't find the ad for a free one you can always use the 20% off coupon too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
Okay so ill fill it with gas then and try it out after work let you guys know how everything goes. Also i have an automatic transmission sadly should i still plug all ports on the tree?Yes, eliminate the hose and cap the ports you don't use. If you don't have power brakes, automatic transmission or a/c you don't need anything connected to the vacuum tree. Yes, filling the carb with gas. It takes quite a while as anyone of us old farts who have ever run out of gas on the highway can tell you....So the vacuum tree on the back of the intake has two ports shall i just plug them both? And since im removing the hose do i just completely get rid of that hose then? The choke im pretty sure is connected to the starter solenoid. Tomorrow i will move it to the alternator stator post. Also yes the choke does close but seems to open fairly quickly i think i just need to adjust that. I do not have an ohmmeter but im sure i can get one from someone. Yes all gaskets involving the carburetor are new. By “prefill” you mean pouring gas into the carb? The few times i tried starting it there should be plenty of fuel in the bowl. Thank you by the way everybody for helping me with this i truly appreciate it. Ima 22 year old just spending money and trying to get his mustang to work so this all helps.
It was actually the upper, large timing gear on the camshaft that had the nylon teeth.There were some dark years where Ford used nylon gears for the lower small timing chain gear, if it is a high mileage car..
No, you need that one to go back the modulator on your transmission or it won't shift correctly. It's not hard to spot, it trails down under the firewall to the right rear of the transmission.Also i have an automatic transmission sadly should i still plug all ports on the tree?
How do i get the number one cylinder to TDC to fix the timing. I feel like im terrible at comprehending how to set the distributor while the car is off
Also with my stupidity i took off all the spark plug wires and i dont know which one goes where help!! Lol
Here's a pretty good video on YouTube on how to find TDC:How do i get the number one cylinder to TDC to fix the timing. I feel like im terrible at comprehending how to set the distributor while the car is off
He uses a fancy tool that you most likely don't have, but various threads here on VMF talk about using a dowel or a screwdriver. Google is your friend with this. Also, as it took me way too long to figure out, it's much easier to turn the engine by hand (i.e. using a ratchet on the crank bolt) if you remove all the spark plugs. I'm a little slow sometimes....
As for connecting your plug wires, again, google is your friend.
If you've looked at various videos / posts, let us know what doesn't make sense and the gang here can help.
Harry Z
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
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