Vintage Mustang Forums banner

New 69 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Owner-Need Help!

443 Views 8 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Mach1 Driver
I just inherited a 1969 Mustang Mach 1. I'm posting on multiple classic Ford Mustang web sites hoping someone can give me some guidance.
#1. This car needs a fan shroud. It is a 351C car with NO factory A/C. It has a radiator that measures 24" wide X 16" tall (cooling fin area). What fan shroud should I order?
#2. I also need a mechanical fan to work with whatever shroud I end up buying. Car has a fiberglass bladed flex fan on it right now that needs to go. Let me know what SIZE mechanical fan to order.
#3. Car has an Edelbrock carb on it that is receiving it's fuel supply directly from the pump. Car is running rich and the plugs are fuel fouled. Should I be running a fuel pressure regulator between mechanical pump and carb?
#4. Excessive valve train noise.. Factory cam-NOT a performance cam. Lot's of people posting they have the same/similar issue.. What's the no-nonsense fix?
#5. Carb is a square bore. Intake is a spread bore. Adapter plate in place. Should I swap over to an after market aluminum square bore intake? I'd like to shed the extra weight, and get rid of the adapter plate. Car has 4V heads.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! First time Ford owner, and this is my 1st classic car.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Registered
253 Posts
I would begin my research for a 1970 351c optioned car. The 1969’s are generally 351w cars with only a few 351C coming in the early cars. Or the 351C could have been installed in the last 54 years. In my eyes the 1970 351C cars would be easier to match replacement engine parts. Radiator, fan and clutch fan should or just a mechanical fan should fit perfect for a 1970 351C.
If the fuel pump is a standard replacement part, it shouldn’t need a regulator. If it’s a performance model, maybe it’s higher than normal pressure can cause the needle in the carb to unseat and let excessive fuel in the float area. If it’s unknown and old I’d put that on my order lists since they are cheap for the piece of mind and easy install. I’ve never owned or rebuilt an edelbrock carb but plenty of good reviews about them. So maybe a quality rebuild kit and an afternoon may go a long way into making it run correctly. Another option for me would be the summit brand carbs, they are real nice, easy to install and mine ran perfect right out of the box.
With valve train noise, I’d pull both valve covers, ground coil wire, have an assistant spin the motor over with the key and look for loose rockers. Could just need an adjustment or worse have a wiped cam lobe. Feel and look for loose rockers at different stages of engine rotation. At a minimum get a pair of valve cover gaskets to replace those while you’re at it. If the car has been parked awhile, it may just need a good flush additive poured in and ran, then a fresh oil change. Lifters can get hardened sludge in them that prevents oil getting thru and pumping them up. Another mention while cranking the engine with the covers off, look for oil coming from each rocker arm.
The adapter plate, though not ideal shouldn’t cause flooding. A new aluminum intake would allow the newer carbs to bolt directly up or use a spacer plate instead of the adapter. Just a few thoughts to help get you started.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts