Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
12,107 Posts
1 - 24" radiator was the Extra Cooling and/or AC size radiator. The outlet on the radiator switched from the passenger side in 1969 to the driver's side in 1970. The shrouds are different, and the 351C only ever had a driver's side water pump. That's something that needs to be looked at before buying a shroud.


2- The fan for the XC radiator was a 17 1/2" five blade flex fan. It's a very common fan for the 70's Fords. IMO, if you're going to buy a new fan, get a clutched fan setup as it uses less power and is much quieter than a flex fan.



3 - it depends. It depends on the pump that is being used. Some produce more than the 6.5 psi Edelbrock recommends as the maximum and can over power the needle and seat. You should have 4.5 - 5.0 at idle with a mechanical pump. That said, most "running rich" issues are poor state of tune and improperly adjusted carburetors.

4- valvetrain noise can be tricky on a Cleveland. A true factory cam is dead silent - how do you know it's a factory cam? Is it noisy at idle or at rpm? Factory Cleveland heads (except Boss/HO) will have a non-adjustable bolt down rocker, but engines get modified over the years. You'll need to investigate under the valve covers to see what you have for a setup. It could be an adjustment, or it could be something more involved. No matter what, make sure you're using an oil with sufficient zinc protection for a flat tappet engine. My preference is Valvoline VR1 10W30.

5- what 22GT said, if it's not leaking, leave it alone. Focus on other driveability issues before tearing into things.

As others said, post some pics of the engine bay so we can see what you have going on.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top