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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Friends

This is a continuation of my last thread. I have converted to a used electronic distributor. Before on my Old OEM points distributor everything is fine. Runs well !

Now
It turns over........runs badly... As soon as I step out to try to tune or set the timing . It stumbles and stalls.

I am wondering about the health of the new electronic "ready to run" distributor. But I think will assume its good for point of this discussion.

My question is this. I know now running with a higher voltage. I hear I need to change the spark plug gap. Change from standard .032 to .040 .

Will that cause such a bad problem that I need a Second person to keep the throttle moving to not let it stall. ?


I have a Blaster 2 MSD coil.
I changed to 8mm billet wires.
removed the ballast from the system.
added new dizzy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The previous thread was just tiring to figure out if a ignition module l was in the dizzy. It is.

12v

can I get 12v by turning the key to "on" and measure with a volt meter?
 

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The previous thread was just tiring to figure out if a ignition module l was in the dizzy. It is.

12v

can I get 12v by turning the key to "on" and measure with a volt meter?
Yes, as long as you have a ground and a "switched" 12V source and either a test light or VOM to read it.
 

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Not so fast. If a wire with no current flowing through it will read the source voltage, ie battery voltage.
The resistor wire (pink wire) will read battery voltage if you just put the volt meter on the wire to the coil.
If there is current flowing through it to ground the voltage will be much lower.
A regular wire will do the same thing, but the voltage drop will be very small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not so fast. If a wire with no current flowing through it will read the source voltage, ie battery voltage.
The resistor wire (pink wire) will read battery voltage if you just put the volt meter on the wire to the coil.
If there is current flowing through it to ground the voltage will be much lower.
A regular wire will do the same thing, but the voltage drop will be very small.

I have no pink wire. I was removed long ago. I have a ballast. It has now been by passed. Then I got my bad running results with this conversion. I am off to work. I will test with meter on Saturday.

thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, as long as you have a ground and a "switched" 12V source and either a test light or VOM to read it.
Thanks Kenash
I dont know what a VOM is.
 

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Thanks Kenash
I dont know what a VOM is.
Apologies, "VOM" is an abbreviation for Volt OHM Meter. Some folks call them multi-meters too as they can check circuits in multiple ways.
I consider these three devices among the most needed for electrical diagnostic work on our cars and, in the case of "VOM", around our house.
Automotive lighting Headlamp Electric blue Cable Hypodermic needle
Measuring instrument Gadget Font Rectangle Communication Device
Automotive lighting Coil Cable Wire Audio equipment
 

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What awhtx said. I think many of us (me included) have installed a distributor a tooth or two off or even 180 out. Have you also checked that the spark plug wires are installed correctly?
With an electronic distributor (he didn’t mention which one) isn’t it more forgiving of being “a tooth off” as long as the firing point for cylinder one lines up to TDC or whatever static timing it required?
 

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I get the impression that you would like to time the distributor, but the engine doesn't stay running long enough with out you working the throttle for you to get a timing light on it. Maybe try advancing or retarding the distributor a little prior to starting it up. maybe make a mark on the shaft and the retainer so you can get back to where you are if you go in the wrong direction. Then once it will run you can get out of the car and use a timing light and set the static advance. Or get yourself an under hood starter switch. It's a 10$ tool and crank the engine with one hand and time the distributor with the other. Engine doesn't need to be running to see where the spark lands on the harmonic timing marks.
 

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a. It doesn't matter if the distributor is "a tooth off" as long as you can rotate the distributor housing to adequately set the static timing.
b. You don't HAVE to change the spark plug gap because you've upped the secondary voltage... If the engine ran fine with .032" before it'll run just as fine at .032" afterward.
 

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why not put the points back in. Thats what these cars were designed to run on.
going to all the black boxes and mystery modules aren't going to yield any more power

I ran all the crap for over 20 yrs. it ran fine, no issues. I put the points back in and never knew anything was less or missing.
car runs just as well
 
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I have converted to a used electronic distributor. Before on my Old OEM points distributor everything is fine. Runs well !

Now
It turns over........runs badly... As soon as I step out to try to tune or set the timing . It stumbles and stalls.

I am wondering about the health of the new electronic "ready to run" distributor.
A couple of thoughts. I too sometimes fix problems I don't have.

The best part is a proven used part.

About half the time I run a new project by my brother, he asks what problem are you solving?
 

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OP's previous thread


Like Kenash stated, you need a remote starter switch, which allows you to crank the engine over from underhood, so you can manually throttle it to keep it running, and then play with the timing.

 

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why not put the points back in. Thats what these cars were designed to run on.
going to all the black boxes and mystery modules aren't going to yield any more power

I ran all the crap for over 20 yrs. it ran fine, no issues. I put the points back in and never knew anything was less or missing.
car runs just as well
Because your standard for “car runs just as well” may be different from other people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
With an electronic distributor (he didn’t mention which one) isn’t it more forgiving of being “a tooth off” as long as the firing point for cylinder one lines up to TDC or whatever static timing it required?

HI Dave

I was at TDC by feel of the screwdriver in piston one and my last recorded mark on the manifold.

The dizzy is used , owner says it worked on his 289. It this piece of junk


Im just doing this temp until i get better parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OP's previous thread


Like Kenash stated, you need a remote starter switch, which allows you to crank the engine over from underhood, so you can manually throttle it to keep it running, and then play with the timing.

Hi Hemi

I will have friend help.
 
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