This is a continuation of my last thread. I have converted to a used electronic distributor. Before on my Old OEM points distributor everything is fine. Runs well !
Now
It turns over........runs badly... As soon as I step out to try to tune or set the timing . It stumbles and stalls.
I am wondering about the health of the new electronic "ready to run" distributor. But I think will assume its good for point of this discussion.
My question is this. I know now running with a higher voltage. I hear I need to change the spark plug gap. Change from standard .032 to .040 .
Will that cause such a bad problem that I need a Second person to keep the throttle moving to not let it stall. ?
I have a Blaster 2 MSD coil.
I changed to 8mm billet wires.
removed the ballast from the system.
added new dizzy.
What awhtx said. I think many of us (me included) have installed a distributor a tooth or two off or even 180 out. Have you also checked that the spark plug wires are installed correctly?
Not so fast. If a wire with no current flowing through it will read the source voltage, ie battery voltage.
The resistor wire (pink wire) will read battery voltage if you just put the volt meter on the wire to the coil.
If there is current flowing through it to ground the voltage will be much lower.
A regular wire will do the same thing, but the voltage drop will be very small.
I have no pink wire. I was removed long ago. I have a ballast. It has now been by passed. Then I got my bad running results with this conversion. I am off to work. I will test with meter on Saturday.
I get the impression that you would like to time the distributor, but the engine doesn't stay running long enough with out you working the throttle for you to get a timing light on it. Maybe try advancing or retarding the distributor a little prior to starting it up. maybe make a mark on the shaft and the retainer so you can get back to where you are if you go in the wrong direction. Then once it will run you can get out of the car and use a timing light and set the static advance. Or get yourself an under hood starter switch. It's a 10$ tool and crank the engine with one hand and time the distributor with the other. Engine doesn't need to be running to see where the spark lands on the harmonic timing marks.
I guess I will look at timing mark zero as point of fire. I set the tdc on the old OEM at about 15 degrees from TDC. And yes I did the engine off adjust back and then forward. I did not get good results I will wait till I can see it on a light gun with a friend.
a. It doesn't matter if the distributor is "a tooth off" as long as you can rotate the distributor housing to adequately set the static timing.
b. You don't HAVE to change the spark plug gap because you've upped the secondary voltage... If the engine ran fine with .032" before it'll run just as fine at .032" afterward.
I did use a voltage meter on my connection wire from the ignition switch to the positive post on the coil. Engine not running with key set to"on" . my reading is 12.6 on my year old battery . The battery post measure reads the same. 12.6 all other locations also 12.6 . So now I dont think this is energy to coil.
I guess I have to wait for my buddy to help keep the engine from stalling and will I check the timing mark with my Light gun.
why not put the points back in. Thats what these cars were designed to run on.
going to all the black boxes and mystery modules aren't going to yield any more power
I ran all the crap for over 20 yrs. it ran fine, no issues. I put the points back in and never knew anything was less or missing.
car runs just as well
Hi Friends I have a link to a simple Electronic dizzy . I hoped someone could help ... Would the below unit have a ignition "module" inside the cap. Or its it external from the distributor.. another device. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8579/make/ford thx
www.vintage-mustang.com
Like Kenash stated, you need a remote starter switch, which allows you to crank the engine over from underhood, so you can manually throttle it to keep it running, and then play with the timing.
Buy Performance Tool W80586 Heavy Duty Remote Starter for Car and Truck Engines with Push-Button Switch and 5-ft Wire Leads , Black: Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Hi Friends I have a link to a simple Electronic dizzy . I hoped someone could help ... Would the below unit have a ignition "module" inside the cap. Or its it external from the distributor.. another device. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8579/make/ford thx
www.vintage-mustang.com
Like Kenash stated, you need a remote starter switch, which allows you to crank the engine over from underhood, so you can manually throttle it to keep it running, and then play with the timing.
Buy Performance Tool W80586 Heavy Duty Remote Starter for Car and Truck Engines with Push-Button Switch and 5-ft Wire Leads , Black: Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Just trying to wrap my head around it all, got ya on the distributor pic You said you're getting 12.6 at the coil power post with the key to run but engine off. Do you still get good voltage during starting and running? kip
I have not yet tested the running voltage yet. I will do that tomorrow. Remember Im a one man band. I cant keep the engine running as soon as I take my foot off the pedal. I'll make a video too.
The "coil connector" is the Duraspark horseshoe connector for the coil, you'll simply connect your coil (+) wire to the light gauge red wire on the MSD. It's a trigger to turn the box on and off.
The distributor you linked will work fine with the MSD.
The "coil connector" is the Duraspark horseshoe connector for the coil, you'll simply connect your coil (+) wire to the light gauge red wire on the MSD. It's a trigger to turn the box on and off.
The distributor you linked will work fine with the MSD.
I did as you and Dave mentioned. I got it done . I have a video. Please dont go freaky over air noises an claim its a leak. I do not in person hear this air sound. Only a factor of the microphone. or air thru the carb.
I will drive it tomorrow. I cant put the air cleaner back on the thing. cuz the bottom metal plate of the cleaner will be in contact with the coil wire. so no filter round the block to 12 miles round trip to Martinez and back.
Sounds better. Still sounds like a slight misfire there..... Would also like to the vacuum up closer to 20"hg. Remember when doing carburetor idle mixture adjustments to alternate between right and left and never have one screw more than 1/4 turn different than the other.
Yes Dave I shortened the wire. But things are so bad I wonder if I have a really bad used product dizzy to begin with. Check the video in the previous post. Timing set to about 15 BTDC with hose attached. Is this a timing problem or defective distributor/ ?
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