Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well tried the intial startup on the 351C today with No luck. Here are the symtoms.
1. Engine Cranks, kinda fires then backfires through the carb starting a fire. not a loud backfire just small little wump. I blow out the fire and try again. Demon carb so no worries on powervalve plus it not that bad a backfire.
2. Engine does crank kinda slow, even with a new battery and a jump. kinda weird.
3. Engine is set 2 degrees advanced at the timing chain. That means TCD should be at 2 deg BTC to set the distrib at #1.. Right?
3. Has a pertronix and a flamethrower coil with the original ballast wire. I have 12 V at coil with Ign in run. I have not done the 12 v jump to the battery yet. Should I even with 12V at Coil?
Any Ideas what to do next?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
TDC is TDC and it does not matter how the cam has been set. Put more advance in the distributor and it will spin over easier. Also, a fresh rebuild will be hard for a starter. If you starter is older, while it may have been able to spin the motor before, it may not be able to now. Just something to keep in mind.

Also, make sure you motor is grounded well. This also can cause slow cranking. But my money is on the distributor advance you have. Set it higher and see if that does not do it for you.

Good luck,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have been setting the rotor to #1 with the timing pointer at 2 deg BDC. I will try and set it at TDC but that seem to be less than one tooth on the distrin to cam gear. I does seem to want to start better with more advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,987 Posts
Do you have your wires on CLock wise or counter clock wise???
SOunds like the exact same thing that happened to me with the FBD had them on clockwise and they had to go counter clockwise.
I even have it on video with the neat little fire in the carb!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
Not sure exactly what your saying... but what I was saying is go more BTDC. You should be able to get it to crank with anything between 10 and 16 degrees. What you use for initial timing is mostly dependent on the cam your running. I don't know what the "C" motors like... but I'm sure if you post a question about initial timing and tell us what cam and compression you have someone will have a proper number for you. Usually the "W" motors like 16 degress initial.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
11.0 :1 Comp. Clevelands like lots of advance 16 deg and 34 by 2K.
What I will try is dropping the distrib. in at TDC with it pointing to the #1. Then I'll give it some advance and try and start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
I have always positioned the pointer on TDC, then pointed the rotor to #1 on the distributor cap. Left the distributor holddown just loose enough that I was able to turn it by hand with some effort. Have someone crank the motor, and if it does not start, slowly advance the distruibutor while the motor is cranking until it starts. Make sure you have the timing light hooked up and that you can set the timing while the engine is running w/o stopping it. If it doesn't start that way, something else is probably wrong.

PS, are you sure you have the #1 piston at TDC?, remember that the balancer can be at 0* W/O the #1 piston being at TDC. good luck

good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
680 Posts
Are you sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke? Don't look at the balancer. It could be 180 degrees out, which is what it sounds like to me. Pull the Pass. side valve cover, and #1 spark plug. Turn motor over till intake valve opens, and starts to close. Watch #1 piston come to top dead canter, then, put the dist. in with the rotor pointing to #1 wire. This should get you running. Don't worry about how many degrees of anything till you get it running. Before TDC or After TDC don't mean anything if the dang thing ain't running.....Also, be sure the engine is grounded to the frame, and the starter solinoid is grounded through the inner fender with the mounting bolts. Either of these can make you loose power to the starter.....
Good Luck,,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks I will give it a shot.
One thing, My mustang does not have a ground strap to the frame. It does have the (-) cable from the Battery to the engine block, Never saw a ground wire in the assembly manuals but thay have been wrong before.
What do you think.
I will check the solinoid attachment to inner fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
680 Posts
My '70 didn't have one either. I made one out of some heavy wire and a couple of heavy terminals. I bolted it to the back of the head on the passenger side. Then bolted the other end to the firewall. I had to drill a hole down low, so it didn't show. Be sure to scratch any paint off the firewall and back of the head. I also have been told by guys with strockers, that they put the ground strap right to the bolt that mounts the starter. I haven't tried this yet, though. I have had a lot of trouble with the starter on my 460.....It heats up the solinoid, and burns the coating off the battery cables........But, I will get this fixed, so help me.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,284 Posts
Do you have an electric choke? If so, unhook it and try starting it. If it's not wired correctly it will pull too much juice and you won't have enought left to fire the car (it will backfire and spit gas out the carb). It also sounds like your dist. is 180 off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
I recently had some Pertronix difficulties and called their tech line after trying the troubleshooting instructions that came with the unit. The three additional suggestions the tech made were:

1. disconnect the pertronx from the coil and ground the coil - post to the block and turn on the ignition. Using a digital multimeter to measure, the voltage at the coil + will drop from 12V but so long as you're getting at least 8V that shouldn't be a problem (I've got 10V).

2. Double check all ground connections including the ground strap inside the distributor that grounds the breaker plate.

3. Make sure the top of the magnet ring is flush with the top of the ignitor box. If not, a shim under the ring should bring it up to proper height.

Good luck.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top