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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been working on these for a while now and I have to say I'm super geeked!

I've wanted to find a way to simplify the positioning of our lower/longer trailing arm link from our 3-Link. Currently you have to measure from points on the car to find where the bracket sits in space on the torque box. With these new frame connectors the measuring is gone AND the bracket will be that much stronger welded to the torque box and bolted through the frame connector.

Take a look/read and please let me know what you think.

Here you can see the RH side frame connector. Its made from .120 wall round tubing:


A close up of the rear end. The slotted hole is used to locate the frame connector to the stock leaf spring hole. This positions the frame connector in the correct fore/aft position:


A close up of the forward end:


Now for the part that gets me excited (doesn't take much these days!). We inset a 1/2" I.D. tube perpendicular to the frame connector to locate the 3-Link trailing arm bracket should you choose the lower/longer link. If you go with this option, the 3-Link kit contains a torque box reinforcement plate and the forward bracket. The plate gets welded to the torque box and the frame connector rear mounting plate. You can then position the trailing arm bracket by sliding it laterally along the shank of the bolt. Spacing is determined based on if you are keeping the stock leaf spring 43" on center trailing arm position or if you are doing a mini-tub and moving them inboard (like shown below). A machined spacer will be provided to span the gap for 43" on center positioned brackets so you can still bolt the entire assembly together. The slot in the frame connector plate enables height variations so you can get the trailing arm bracket snug to the torque box reinforcement plate before welding:




Pictures showing the front in position. You can see the gusseted flanges and that the bar only hangs 1/2" lower than the frame rail so minimal ground clearance loss:




Of course, you don't have to use our 3-Link to use these, they work perfectly well with leaf springs. Pricing will be $399 for a pair and they should be on the shelves soon!
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few more pictures:

Stock width trailing arm brackets at 43" on center:


Moving the inner arch to the frame rail to get 40" on center trailing arms:


DSE, TCP etc. deep tubs to get 38" on center trailing arms:
 

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I likey! Nice planning and execution.
 

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Do the flat torque box plate and the trailing arm bracket come with the connectors? If not, could they be added for a bit extra to ease the installation? Not sure how to line the rear end up height wise without those pieces being in place. Maybe I''m overthinking it.
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do the flat torque box plate and the trailing arm bracket come with the connectors? If not, could they be added for a bit extra to ease the installation? Not sure how to line the rear end up height wise without those pieces being in place. Maybe I''m overthinking it.
If you plan on going with the 3-Link and the lower/longer link I'll include the brackets with the frame connectors. If not, you simply take a measurement from the torque box down to a point on the frame connector to set the height (detailed in the instructions). You never know, the 3-Link may not be in the plans now but one drive in a car with it and that will change!
 

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Awesome to hear. The 3 link is definitely in the plan, I've just got to finish the other areas on the car and save up.
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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