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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have a 1966 Mustang Coupe with an Inline six, just signed up and wanted to say hello.

I also have my first question and it is about the front frame rails, I am going to need both front frame rails (full) replaced and would like to know the procedure for doing this, I also realize that I may be in over my head here with this and will be needing to take it to a shop but I would still like to know what is involved and what needs to be done for such an undertaking.

thanks,
dan
 

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iSet the car up as level as you can useing some type of shim between stand and body . I use hydraulic bottle jacks and trailer stabilizer jacks myslf . When you have it set up start a process of measurements and record them . Measure rail to garage floor surface at many points and record. Measure from firewall or some point to end of rail . This is the key though get many measurements and replace rail right back to those dimensions and you will be fine . Same goes for floor pans your garage floor will be the datum line . Since a garage floor is not level the measurements will be a little different front to back maybe just make sure you put new rail back at same dimension as old rail if it was not wrecked anyway .
 

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This is a fair amount of work. Do you have a welder and a place that will allow this kind of work to be done on your own schedule? It's not a weekend project (at least not for me).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do have a welder and almost all of the equipment, I am also fine with space where the car can sit undisturbed for as long as is needed so there are no worries there, I also have the help of my neighbor (and friend) that has had quite a bit of experience restoring cars (as well as his dad), I also grew up with my step dad who restored cars so I had a lot of opportunities to help growing up as well,

I do not want to sugar coat things though, every car my step dad had except for his 65 GT (which I was in college when he did) had a full frame and this uni-body deal has me a bit nervous, enough so that I am not diving into this project with my head down and eyes closed, if I decided to tackle this on my own (with my friends help) and not have a shop do it, I would also like to make sure I can finish it.

last (for now) is the post from BlueStang67, I figured that I would have to do everything you mentioned, but I also thought that when it came time to put it back together I should be using the measurements from the factory dimensions (right?), The drivers side rail looks to be tweaked.

I'll leave it there for now, thanks for the replies,
dan
 

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Yes on factory measurement . That is where i mention no previous accident . The old mustang front would torque up from the driver side . You can work that out easy enough when replacing the rail . My model A was tagged lightly on the side and was in about 1 inch i built this and made a relief cut at area and pushed it out at various places to realign with door . Here is a pic

You can drill anchors in the concrete to hold area and push rest up with hyd. jacks in multi places to keep it uniform . I have about 8 2ton Bottle jacks that have did some great light frame work allways use wood as to keep from crushing sheet metal . Look at what you have and what has to move. Harbor Freight sells a fairly cheap Porta Power kit and has a hyd. Pull jack that would pull that section down with a floor anchor .

Your head up and eyes open will pull you thru this very well. Since you have factory measurements your well on the way .

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bluestang67, thank you for the info, I think I am going to start planning what I need and what needs to be done as well as checking out that Porta Power kit at Harbor Freight,

Thanks for the pictures, I took a look at the rest of them in that album and it looks like you have yourself some decent projects, what is up with the other mustang on the auto hauler? is it yours?

I like the 31 as well, My neighbor just bought a 31 2 door coupe, he payed 4,000 for it un-restored, when I say un-restored I mean that things have been done over the years such as new leather on the seats, rattle can spray job to save it from rusting (and it is pretty much rust free), it was running 5 years ago when it was put in storage, and he is now the 3rd owner with about 40,000 miles on it. It took us 4 or 5 hours to flush the flush the radiator and do the necessary stuff to get it running, it's no hot rod, but when either of us has a bad day we hop in and take it around the neighborhood and it slaps a smile right back on our faces.

alright, I am leaving it there but I will be posting back with more info and an update, also pictures when I take the time to upload them.

thanks
 
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