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Imdiana is a good size state so an actual town or city would not hurt--just trying to help Sorry! Wes
I'm in north east INdiana, east of Fort Wayne in Woodburn. You close?
You could also see if there are any Ford/Mustang clubs where U live. Contact them for advice. 馃檪
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I'm in north east INdiana, east of Fort Wayne in Woodburn. You close?
You could also see if there are any Ford/Mustang clubs where U live. Contact them for advice. 馃檪
I鈥檓 in Indianapolis, I did find a guy my father in law knows that鈥檚 been building classic cars for a while that鈥檚 going to come by and check it out and point me in the right direction. Thanks for reaching out though!
 

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David, welcome to VMF.
 

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Under "Account Detail" of your icon, Account Settings, you can specify a "Location" so members can see it when they hover over your icon on posts. jp
I sure wish that field was more flexible. I've tried to fill it in a few times but it just wont accept West California.
 

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So is West California an actual town or city???
Some misguided people believe the state should be split into North and South California (they call the northern state "Jefferson"). I believe the state should be split into West and East California along the I-5 Freeway.

I should not hi-jack your thread with this. It's likely too political for the VMF site as well.

So.... Nevermind....

Welcome to the Forum. Good luck with that car. Needs to be running for summer.
 

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback T5 Ncas 9in Locker
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Hey Dave... WELCOME .
North of you in Westfield.
PM sent
 

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Something caught my eye. I noticed the coil wire running high and left. Does this have some type of ignition box?
Don't drive it without an Export brace. Summit has a great reproduction for about 69.00. It's the Scott Drake unit. It's all but identical to the Ford/Shelby unit. If you don't have a provision at the lower rear center, base of carb or the right side of the intake I would just purchase a twist in breather for the time being. Congratulations on your new purchase.
 
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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Something caught my eye. I noticed the coil wire running high and left. Does this have some type of ignition box?
Don't drive it without an Export brace. Summit has a great reproduction for about 69.00. It's the Scott Drake unit. It's all but identical to the Ford/Shelby unit. If you don't have a provision at the lower rear center, base of carb or the right side of the intake I would just purchase a twist in breather for the time being. Congratulations on your new purchase.
Thank you, working on these purchases now
 

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...Been looking at old mustangs for a while and finally pulled the trigger. Drove it from where I bought it (about 30 min drive). Got it to my driveway then couldn't get it to start again...
Is your driveway on a steep incline?

Maybe you had enough gas to drive home on level ground -- but not enough gas to deal with a steep incline.

Anyway, make sure gas is actually squirting into the carb when you push the throttle. This is easy to see with the air cleaner removed.
 

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Maybe the problem is vapor lock -- especially after a 30 minute drive on a hot day in Indiana:

Ethanol-free gasoline might help -- if you can find it.
 

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Maybe the problem is vapor lock -- especially after a 30 minute drive on a hot day in Indiana:

Ethanol-free gasoline might help -- if you can find it.
He has a transparent fuel filter. That should be easy to ascertain if he has enough fuel. Ethanol-free fuel is getting all but impossible to find anymore. I don't see that getting better. I bough the Canton 3/8" carb insulators and the Canton fuel pump insulator. Sadly there are still some issues. His car is missing the fan shroud, fan clutch and original fan.
He has a bit to do to bring it up to standard. It's a good base car to start with though.
 

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He has a transparent fuel filter. That should be easy to ascertain if he has enough fuel. Ethanol-free fuel is getting all but impossible to find anymore. I don't see that getting better. I bough the Canton 3/8" carb insulators and the Canton fuel pump insulator. Sadly there are still some issues. His car is missing the fan shroud, fan clutch and original fan.
He has a bit to do to bring it up to standard. It's a good base car to start with though.
Ah, good eye on the transparent fuel filter. (But I still like to see the carb squirting. :))

And I definitely agree: Make improvements to help prevent heat-related issues!

It was especially gratifying when my rebuilt 289 with a LOT of new parts never overheated while driving:

798530


But still, a hot re-start on a hot day was usually difficult when the car sat just long enough for the engine to heat soak.
 

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Ah, good eye on the transparent fuel filter. (But I still like to see the carb squirting. :))

And I definitely agree: Make improvements to help prevent heat-related issues!

It was especially gratifying when my rebuilt 289 with a LOT of new parts never overheated while driving:

View attachment 798530

But still, a hot re-start on a hot day was usually difficult when the car sat just long enough for the engine to heat soak.
I agree with you. 100 degree+ days can make starts more difficult. You have a small block. They are easier to conquer heat soak than big block cars. I have done many of the tricks out there while trying to keep the original look.
Strangely enough the 3/8 Canton spacers helped but the rear carburetor is the only one that seems to deal with percolation enough to make it drip. Even that is relatively rare. Now If I could figure out a way to insulate the fuel log without it being obvious I would have the issue licked.
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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I worked in a bodyshop back in the 90's, 2 of the mechanics in the shop tried to get a car going for 2 solid days. Finally our boss came out of his office and asked if they checked the fuel tank. They said the gauge showed 1/4 tank. He told them to put a couple gallons in the tank anyway, it fired up. He was pi$$ed, while the rest of us in the shop were quite amused 馃槀
 
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