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After about 150 miles on my new 331, I changed the oil for the first time. Initially, it looked clear under fluorescent garage lights, but in the sunlight, I can see metallic particles. The particles are finer than the metal flake in paint.
I have a comp cam, it’s a hydraulic roller, and was well aware of the compatibility issues with steel roller cams and distributor gears. To rule out a disintegrating cam or gear, I pulled the distributor to check. Nothing was obviously worn. I have the 100 dollar plastic gear on the shelf, and may install it for good measure.
Is this a normal finding for a first oil change on a new motor? I don’t have a magnetic drain plug, so can’t say if it’s steel or bearing material, looks like copper colored though.
744140
8B01D14E-BBA4-4E1B-A5D8-9702A50799EA.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, what you’re seeing in the pic is from the inside of the oil filter. What came out of the pan was possibly less. It wasn’t noticeable in the drain pan after I drained the crankcase.
 

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Obviously, worried. Have the oil analyzed. You’ll need a sample of your oil and a a “clean” unused sample of the same oil, You’ll gets a break down of all of the compounds. If you’re engine running is running “OK”, most likely it’s part of the “run/in” wear?
 

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If it got into the copper on the bearings in 150 miles you've got problems and there's a good chance you'd know it without looking at the oil. If it were mine and oil pressure is good and it sounds ok, Id put on a new filter, top it off with fresh oil and drive it another 500 miles, change it again and give it a look.
 

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You can always check crank endplay. Thrust bearings are often the culprit. Do you have an auto or manual trans?
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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After about 150 miles on my new 331, I changed the oil for the first time. Initially, it looked clear under fluorescent garage lights, but in the sunlight, I can see metallic particles. The particles are finer than the metal flake in paint.
I have a comp cam, it’s a hydraulic roller, and was well aware of the compatibility issues with steel roller cams and distributor gears. To rule out a disintegrating cam or gear, I pulled the distributor to check. Nothing was obviously worn. I have the 100 dollar plastic gear on the shelf, and may install it for good measure.
Is this a normal finding for a first oil change on a new motor? I don’t have a magnetic drain plug, so can’t say if it’s steel or bearing material, looks like copper colored though. View attachment 744140 View attachment 744140
That looks copper type material, Not good. It can run good, wear bearings until it starts to knock. Is your dist. gear Brass? if not need to find problem.
 

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Pull a couple mains and rods. If, they look OK, that is, no unusual wear characteristics or "CU" showing, then suspect bad gauges?
 

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it looks like copper as mentioned which is worrisome to say the least but I would have to ask the person that built it how this could happen?? bearings that wear during break in have a tolerance error. Change the oil, run it and have another look and go from there. Hope it is nothing!
 

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I'm sorry to inform you, death is near. There is no way a "fresh" motor should have "CU" showing from such a short period. Something's amiss. Wiped cam lobe, poor oil pump, bearing issues, whatever, something is amiss.
 

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what is the history of the engine....is it a rebuild after a bearing issue? Could some of this be left in the engine / heads from prior to rebuild?? it is a long shot for sure but you never know....if you had a spun bearing and just laid out the heads and rebuilt the shortblock it is a possibility that there were some remnants in the valvetrain or oil cooler and lines.
 

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No new engine should have that kind of metal in it. Even if the block wasn't baked and washed you wouldn't have that much left over from previous damage.

I'm not sure if you are actually seeing copper which is unlikely to be able to accumulate that much but more likely other shavings that are being refracted by the oil and looking like copper from the color of the oil. Is it just me or does it seem like there are more failures similar to this in rebuilt engines these days?

The choices are pull it apart now and figure it out or drive it until symptoms start to show what is failing. Either way it's screwed and you can't really screw it any worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I drove it about 30 miles today with fresh oil and a new Wix filter. Going to change it a few more times and see what happens. Also swapped on the 120 dollar composite Comp cam gear. The wear on the Steel distributor gear looked standard. As for the cam, it didn’t look terribly suspect.
I hadn’t considered the crank end play. Good thing to check.
The motor was built by myself and a good friend who was a machinist for a fairly big-time engine block manufacturer. We checked everything multiple times, so he’s baffled also.
 

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I drove it about 30 miles today with fresh oil and a new Wix filter. Going to change it a few more times and see what happens. Also swapped on the 120 dollar composite Comp cam gear. The wear on the Steel distributor gear looked standard. As for the cam, it didn’t look terribly suspect.
I hadn’t considered the crank end play. Good thing to check.
The motor was built by myself and a good friend who was a machinist for a fairly big-time engine block manufacturer. We checked everything multiple times, so he’s baffled also.
OK, but, send sample out for evaluation. Not very spendy, at all. Then you'll know.
Good news, otherwise!
 

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Also, the motor was a 90HO from a high mileage fox. I heard the motor before I pulled it, so it was a runner. There was minor ridge at the top of the bores, and no other real significant issues. The block was bored .030 and to whatever grit matched the rings. No clearancing was needed. It was cleaned a few times and all plugs and galleys were scrubbed. The crank spun beautifully in the main saddles. It has main studs.
 

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As mentioned above, check the crank end play! Easy to do and might save you a crank.
 
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