Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just tipped 3500 mile on a new 302 roller. She has been running great but the sound and hesitation and compartment smell mhas been noticeably present.

I decided to take the collectors off the rear exhaust and check the gasket...and found no gaskets. Hmmm when the exhaust was custom fit there for the header collectors I remember it coming on and off before final welding, the gaskets were left off.

The oil was brown and certainly begging to be changed so I went OE synthetic for the change over and will go full monty in another 3000 miles.

The reason I climbed back behind a key board to the forum was because of the incredible increase in horsepower from these two changes at the same time.

Fixing exhaust leak before the x pipes and changing oil was a great needed improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
...and the oil is brown?
How often are you driving it? Have you considered or thought of having the oil analyized?
Just a thought. Your ride looks pretty cool too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I thought the color was dark too. at 2000 miles it was still clear. Sometime around then I adjusted the carb, and it seems rich. Thx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestion, after further thought about the expense of the engine you got me thinking that an oil analysis might be a good idea. The engine is new enough and runs great enough to want to make sure it stays that way. Thanks again, I forgot about this kind of service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
Thanks for the suggestion, after further thought about the expense of the engine you got me thinking that an oil analysis might be a good idea. The engine is new enough and runs great enough to want to make sure it stays that way. Thanks again, I forgot about this kind of service.
Hi,
NAPA carries the kits. In my area they cost about $15. You get two small containers, one for the oil that comes from the pan and one for the oil that you expect to use.
The important feature of having the oil tested in a new engine, is it will reveal trace metals present from wear (should be minimal in a new engine), but, still present as the engine "settles-in", also, any traces of coolant too.
You mention you adjusted the carb, did you adjust it using a vac gauge? This is a highly recommend way to adjust the mix, also, gives an indication of the vac present. This is good baseline data to have going forward, so, you have data to compare with down the road.
Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I had to buy a Vac gauge when I did the carb. Reason? It only took me a few minutes to realize that adjustments to the carb of a half turn went unchanged by ear. I went and bought the Vac Gauge and could see a change direct proportional while turning almost any amount of a needle. The Vac Gauge was a must. Now I have to look again for the best way to adjust the Edlebrock. I seem to remember that I followed the instructions last time but felt it was a little rich in reality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
I had to buy a Vac gauge when I did the carb. Reason? It only took me a few minutes to realize that adjustments to the carb of a half turn went unchanged by ear. I went and bought the Vac Gauge and could see a change direct proportional while turning almost any amount of a needle. The Vac Gauge was a must. Now I have to look again for the best way to adjust the Edlebrock. I seem to remember that I followed the instructions last time but felt it was a little rich in reality.

Hi

Good news on the vac gauge. I ran a 1405 Eddy 600 CFM for a couple of years. It adjusted quit easily using the vac gauge, however, depending on your engines breathing efficiencies, the metering rods may have to be stepped down a notch. Check and adjust them before the jets. Eddy has a great chart for carb tuning in their online tech section. But, you should have a copy that came with your carb.
My best A.F.Ratios were obtained through the use of a wideband AFR meter and verified through dyno runs. My engine runs best (17" vac) with an idle AFR of about 14.3-8 and 13.1-3 at WOT.
You should shoot for the mid 14s for idle, then go from there.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top