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New Problem, Now it won't start...

931 Views 11 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  gbtr6, 
gbtr6
Well, in addition to the problems with my engine that isn't running properly, it won't start. I had the parts store check the battery, and it's good. This just developed. I turn the key and it clicks, and the dome light goes out, all out, and I go to the battery and touch the positive terminal, and I hear a click under/ around the dash on drivers side.

First of all, I am horrible at diagnostics, and even worse at electrical problems as I lack the tools, both literally and the brain power to fix them.

I had previously replaced the starter a while ago, the solenoid is OK, I repalced the switch a while ago too. What would cause this sudden issue?

What should I check and how would I check it? I do have a multimeter so I could, with instruction, use that to check things.

Thanks,
Perry
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Blues Power
sounds like a bad ground connection from the battery to the block.
follow the black wire off the battery and see where it ends and check the connection for corrosion and looseness.
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sdmustangrider
Definitely sounds like a ground connection problem. Check battery connections for sure because your dome lights are shutting off when turning the key.
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John_Del
gbtr6 said:
What should I check and how would I check it? I do have a multimeter so I could, with instruction, use that to check things.
Click to expand...
If you have a helper, use your multimeter to find the power drop. In all tests, make sure the probes have a good, clean surface to get a reading from.

First step is to put your DMM probes in the dead center of the battery posts, not on the terminal clamps. With the engine attempting to start, the battery voltage should stay above 10V. If it drops sharply when the key is turned, the battery is bad.

Next check the battery terminals at the battery posts, even if you think they're OK. Put one probe of the DMM in the center of the positive battery post, and the other on the positive battery terminal. I know it seems like you're essentially putting the meter on the same spot but you're not.

Have a buddy crank over the engine. There should be *NO* voltage on the DMM at this point. If you do (more than a tenth of a volt), then the connection between the battery post and the battery terminal clamp is bad, and you're losing your starting current there. Remove the battery terminal and sand down the battery post and the inside of the battery terminal and retry. Test the negative terminal in the same manner.

Next. Put the one probe of the meter on the negative terminal of the battery, and the other on a good ground on the engine block and crank it over. Again, there should be no voltage. If you see voltage appear in this test, the negative battery cable or it's connection at the block is bad. Remove from the block and sand or scrape clean it's connection and repeat. If the same result happens, replace the battery cable. Do the same for the positive battery cable.

John
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JeffTepper
Most likely, there is a wiring issue between the solenoid under the hood and the ignition switch. I suggest inspecting the harness closely along its entire run for cuts, breaks, bad splices, damage, etc.

The clicking you hear under the dash is most likely the small solenoid atop the steering column near the firewall that activates the tilt away steering column "away" feature.
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gbtr6
Once again, Thank you for the great responses and help.

Del, what should I have my meter set at? Like OHM, I know thats not right, but what setting, as I have a selector knob. Its a Harbor Freight Special.

Jeff, I do have the tilt away wheel. It doesn't always tilt away. I thought it was a vauum problem, but maybe not. I also wonder about the door switch.

Like I said, I know nothing of electricity except I hate getting shocked.

Thanks,
Perry
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Lemondrop
gbtr6 said:
Once again, Thank you for the great responses and help.

Del, what should I have my meter set at? Like OHM, I know thats not right, but what setting, as I have a selector knob. Its a Harbor Freight Special.

Jeff, I do have the tilt away wheel. It doesn't always tilt away. I thought it was a vauum problem, but maybe not. I also wonder about the door switch.

Like I said, I know nothing of electricity except I hate getting shocked.

Thanks,
Perry
Click to expand...
The upside to cars is it is hard to get shocked. The meter should be set to DC volts, not AC. Not sure if the thing lists it as Ac or DC but look on the internet for the symbols.
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John_Del
gbtr6 said:
Del, what should I have my meter set at? Like OHM, I know thats not right, but what setting, as I have a selector knob. Its a Harbor Freight Special.
Click to expand...
If it's this meter: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Set the rotary switch to the 20 position in the DCV area. The meter will now read any DC voltage from a tenth of a volt up to 20. Since we're looking for voltage in the 0 to 12V range, this is the correct setting.


Make sure the black probe is in the bottom socket, and the red is in the middle socket.

John

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gbtr6
Great! I think I can handle that without losing a finger or stopping my heart. Good to know you can't get a big shock. I am just not a fan of that.

I believe that is exactly my meter.

Thanks Again, I appreciate it.

Perry
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GypsyR
There's another similar thread going on here. Here's a link to helpful info about gettign the best out of that multimeter. In particular try out what they say about voltage drop testing on your main battery and ground cables.
Diagnosing Voltage Drops - Electrical Automotive Troubleshooting
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Woodchuck
Remove the battery cables from the battery. Clean the posts and the insides of the cable ends until they are nice and shiny silver. Reinstall the cables and tighten securely.
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gbtr6
Did the tests that John Del mentioned and found out there is a bad positive wire from battery to solenoid. Funny thing is, I didn't have a voltage drop on the positive side. I did have voltage on the negative side. When I held the positive wire in the post tight, it starts. Then I ran it out of gas.

Need to get some gas and drive it in the trailer to storage.

Thank you all,
Perry
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