Vintage Mustang Forums banner

21 - 40 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I don't even want to talk about it. I fought this thing for 4 hours just to remove one head, lifters, fan, water pump, oil pan, and front cover. When I have to remove parts with a pry bar and a hammer, it's not good.

The head was the easiest thing to do. Impact wrench, socket, and it was off. Then I rolled it over, and went after the oil pan. There were 3 or 4 funky bolts that I didn't have any SAE or metric wrench or socket that would fit. Where the heck do people find these things? I had to take them off with Vise Grips. Ridiculous! After the oil pan, I went after the water pump and front cover. Can't get the fan off because no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the bolts attaching the fan to the water pump off. It kept turning. I even put a pair of extremely oversize Channel Locks on the pulley, but no go...just kept slipping. Okay...forget it. I'll get the water pump off and then will get that freaking POS fan out of the way. Oh no...two of the bolts that go through the water pump, through the cover and into the block don't want to come out. All the other ones were a struggle due to corrosion. Got them all off except those two. Oh yeah, and the one hiding behind what I believe is the crank position sensor held on the front cover by two of the #U(&($# little bolts that are the same size as the ones holding the heat shield on the exhaust manifold...the one that I don't have anything that fits. I tried 1/4", 5/16", 6mm, 7mm, 8mm....nada. Same thing as before...Vise Grips will grab, but those little SOB's won't turn. Pry bar and hammer time, and out of the way it goes. Now I can get that bolt behind it.

I'm PO'd now, but I have no plans to keep the water pump and the front cover. Water pump won't budge from the cover, so I'll take the pump/cover off as one assembly. First I gotta get the balancer off. Big center bolt comes out just fine with an impact wrench, but how the heck do you pull this thing with a regular balancer puller? There are no holes to put the outside bolts into the pull the balancer. I go to YouTube, and find a couple of videos that show them using a regular puller with the center bolt and three outside bolts. This one does not have the outside holes! Time for some PB Blaster, pry bar, and hammer. Whale on it for awhile, and finally the balancer comes off and hangs up on the fan. A whack witha rubber mallet gets it moving. Glad I'm not planning on using that again.

Nothing I do will get those last two bolts off. I finally break out the trusty cut off wheel and cut through the aluminum cover alongside the the bolt all the way to the block. A few love taps with the hammer and pry bar, and the cover, fan, and water pump are on the ground. Whew! Tomorrow it's the crank, rods, and pistons, and the block will be ready to go to the machine shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
What I have done in the past with the timing cover bolts that go threw the pump and continue threw the timing cover is heat the timing cover where the bolts go threw the cover with a torch.. Its aluminum so you need to be careful with the heat..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I want to tap the oil galley holes at the front of the block, like I did my 289. However, I don't remember the tap size, and I have a few of the larger ones now. Anyone have an idea?

EDIT: 1/4 x 18 NPT. Have two taps this size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Block finally stripped of all the goodies and now at the machine shop up the road from me. Took it in, and he measured the bores - 4.00 and all they need is a clean up. He'll hot tank it, put in new cam bearings, and then I can come and get it. Pretty good for a 5.0 out of a 98 Explorer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,392 Posts
I have the TW 170 heads on my 331 with a XE274HR cam and it's very peppy! I think you'll love the motor your building.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I have the TW 170 heads on my 331 with a XE274HR cam and it's very peppy! I think you'll love the motor your building.
I've seen quite a few folks referencing that cam. It's one I'll be taking a look at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
I have the TW 170 heads on my 331 with a XE274HR cam and it's very peppy! I think you'll love the motor your building.
I have that cam in my 331. It comes on strong around 5K and wants to rev to the moon! I have the XE266HR in my 302 powered coupe and it has more low end torque. Custom cams are nice but I'm sure there are many off the shelf cams that will work great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
My block is at the machine shop to get tanked and new cam bearings in, and haven't seen the guy in the last two weeks - his shop has been closed up. I think he went on vacation as this is not like him to be closed up for so long. Hope he's alright. I know where he lives, but don't want to bother him at home.

I've been cleaning the GT40P heads - spray them down with brake cleaner, scrub then with a metal brush, etc. Got one of the two broken bolts out from the head where the exhaust bolted on, and slowly working the other one. Didn't help that I had a drill bit break off inside the bolt right when I got close to getting it out. Thanks drill bit.

I have forgotten just how heavy cast iron heads are! It's been almost 5 years since I took the original 289 heads off my 289 and went with the Twisted Wedge heads. Combination of heavy heads and more age on me is not good. Once I get these heads done, gonna put them up for sale. I see GT40P heads are going for $500+ for the pair on eBay...wonder what I can get for them around here?
 

·
VMF Ambassador
Joined
·
6,717 Posts
Holy moly, $500??? Time for me to HEAD to the Pick n Pull.... :ROFLMAO: I crack myself up.

Looks like it'll be a fun engine build! Reminds me that I have a 5-bolt 289 rotting in my garage back in NC right now... it is all full of crystallized coolant. Yuck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
So a tip for the guys buying the Explorer engines...

Once you strip off all of the Explorer specific parts that you won’t use... instead of checking them, bundle it all and post the parts over on an Explorer, Ranger or other Ford truck site - some people needs those parts for other conversions they’re doing.

A few years back, I too bought a complete low mileage (33k) 98 Explorer engine for my 94 Bronco build... I did a complete GT40 engine for that Bronco. It cost me $800 for the engine (which was a complete long lock intake to oil pan with everything still attached to it) and I turned around and sold off all of the removed specific Explorer parts for $300 total...

That was all front end accessory components, oil pan, oil pump & pick up tube, timing cover, water pump, all attached harnesses, all pulleys, manifolds, valve covers, coil packs, fuel injectors, flexplate, (bell housing if it came with one), fuel rails, all sensors and basically anything else attached that I was not using or could not use.

Try to recoup what you can and use it for more goodies, rather than just chucking or junking it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Huntingky

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Finally got my block back today from the machine shop. Hot tanked and new cam bearings installed (I supplied the bearings) - $60. Took awhile to get it back because the machinist took 2 weeks off for a break. Glad to see him back.

I have a question regarding the rust on the outside of the block. Do I clean off as much as I can with wire brushes, etc., treat it with something, and then paint it when I'm ready? What's the best way to deal with the rust?

768299


768300
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,443 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I bought this from HF to get the scaley rust off mine. Worked killer

I forgot about those scalers...thanks! I just worked on it a bit using a steel brush cup in an angle grinder. That made quick work of the rust! I'll be seeing iron oxide in the Kleenex for the next couple of days. I'll use a needle scaler to get into those hard to reach areas on the block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,392 Posts
How does that happen in the desert?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,332 Posts
Now that you've cleaned it up brush on some phosphoric acid (I use Ospho) to kill the rust. You can prime it now or later.
 
21 - 40 of 60 Posts
Top