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Buy the engine from back east. NJ in fact.
I live in the salt belt. How do you get the inner bits so clean with rust on the outside? Every block or engine I have got back from a machine shop was just rust free everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I live in the salt belt. How do you get the inner bits so clean with rust on the outside? Every block or engine I have got back from a machine shop was just rust free everywhere.
I have no idea as I didn't ask the machinist what he uses or his procedure when it came to hot tanking the block. It definitely came out a lot cleaner than it went in, and after less than an hour with a brush on a angle grinder cleaned all that rust off down to bare metal. Just going to do some touch up today to get the rust out of the crevices and then spray it with Ospho, or whatever else is compatible, to keep it protected.
 

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Just some unsolicited advice for you, get a small brush kit and scrub/clean, power wash the living sh_t out of all the internal passages of your engine block. Remove the oil filter adapter if it's still there so that passage can be cleaned. Also, might as well tap and put screw-in plugs in the front 3 oil gallery passages up where the cam goes in, and drill that teeny hole in the one near the dist gear to help feed it oil.....you know, while you're at it... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Just some unsolicited advice for you, get a small brush kit and scrub/clean, power wash the living sh_t out of all the internal passages of your engine block. Remove the oil filter adapter if it's still there so that passage can be cleaned. Also, might as well tap and put screw-in plugs in the front 3 oil gallery passages up where the cam goes in, and drill that teeny hole in the one near the dist gear to help feed it oil.....you know, while you're at it... :)
I'm already on it. I tapped the oil gallery passage holes up front before I took it to be tanked - figured that would get the last of the shavings out. Oil filter adapter came off before too. I just bought an engine brush set and will power wash it next chance I get. Didn't know about the hole near the distributor gear, so I'll make sure to get that one done. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Attacked the rust with a wire cup on an angle grinder and some areas with a wire wheel on a drill and an air powered needle scaler. Here's what the block looks like now:

769074


769075


769076
 

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Discussion Starter #48
New pistons came in today. Do folks know hard it is to find Twisted Wedge compatible pistons for a 4.00 bore? Trick Flow doesn't make any, but I found some through DSS Racing. When I ordered them, someone from the company called me to make sure I really wanted the 4.00 pistons. When I told him they were the only folks I could find that made them for TW heads, he laughed and said he would go ahead and make me a set. Got them in today, and I'm happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
After a two week layoff due to COVID, I finally recovered enough to do some work on the bare block. I talked to the machinist who cleaned my block and asked him about the cylinders and would it be okay to touch them up with a flex hone. He said give it about 10 strokes with it, and cylinders will be good - just enough to knock off the glaze. So I did that, along with the lifter bores and got the block ready for final cleaning.

773665
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Today we took the block to the local DIY car wash to give it a final scrub before bagging it for awhile. Power washed it, scrubbed all holes with soapy water and bore brushes, and then used some compressed air to get it dry. We drove home, put the block on the engine stand, and then I had my daughter hit all the passages one more time with compressed air. After that, I put a good coating of WD 40 in the cylinders and lifter bores, and then put a plastic bag over it until I get motivated enough to finish off the block with core plugs, oil galley plugs, paint, etc. My daughter had a lot of questions and luckily I still had the parts handy from the teardown of the 5.0. I explained camshaft, lifters, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rods, rings, etc., to her and showed her how they worked in and on the engine. Having the parts right there made it a bit more understandable for her.

773671


773672
 

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Forget all the other stuff, you had your daughter there helping and curious. That's a win in my book. I remember my daughter coming over once when she was pregnant with my first grandson saying, "Dad, can you show me how to shoot a gun?" Man I dropped everything and grabbed up a bunch and we spent an afternoon on our land blasting silhouettes. She never got a gun, didn't really want one, just decided she should know how to load and shoot. I was more than happy to spend as much time as she wanted. That's just good stuff.
 

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When I ordered them, someone from the company called me to make sure I really wanted the 4.00 pistons.
I'm sure that you are aware that with a 4.0" bore and a 3.25" stroke you are building a 327. But I would never say that in public less somebody think you have a chebbie engine. A 331 has a 4.030" bore. I'm going to build a 333 with a 4.040" bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I'm sure that you are aware that with a 4.0" bore and a 3.25" stroke you are building a 327. But I would never say that in public less somebody think you have a chebbie engine. A 331 has a 4.030" bore. I'm going to build a 333 with a 4.040" bore.
Yes, I didn't know that until I went camping with some friends in October, and one of them, who is a mechanical genius, pointed that out to me. I swore him to secrecy, but you just threw it all over a public forum! :) I'll still call it a 331 though.
 

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I had a block that looked about the same maybe more rust on the outside but the shop that I used used a tumbler/shot peening and it looked like brand new..Best $40 bucks I spent..
 

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Please have your daughter wear safety glasses, especially when using compressed air.
 
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Discussion Starter #56
Please have your daughter wear safety glasses, especially when using compressed air.
That's nothing. About a 1/2 hour after this picture was taken. we went to "play" with a clogged septic system. And with me being still worn out by COVID, guess who got to do most of the work on that one?
 

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My 331 did not require any grinding on the block and my rings don't intersect the wrist pins. The rods are forged rods and were specifically made to clear the 302 block and still retain the big end strength. The ARP bolts have no nuts on them. They are threaded into the rods. They also have locating pins that fit the end caps into the rods. Pretty neat.
 

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I finally decided to seize the moment and build a 331 for my 65. The current configuration is a 289, Twisted Wedge 170 heads, XE262 Comp Cam, flat top forged pistons, Blue Thunder dual quad intake port matched, a pair of Quick Fuel 425 carburetors, Pertronix II distributor, TopLoader close ratio transmission, 3.55 TractionLock 8" rear. My plan is to go with a roller 5.0 block, 331 stroker kit with Twisted Wedge compatible pistons, a different cam.

So I did a little searching online and found a complete 5.0L out of a 98 Explorer with stock bores. Don't know the mileage, but I'll get it figured out. I tried to find one locally, but the few times I've been to the Pick 'n Pull, Pull-A-Part, etc in Tucson, the 5.0's are either gone or missing all the major components with the block left open to the elements for who knows how long.

This is going to be a fall/winter project as time and funds permit. Right now the plan is to get it mounted on an engine stand and start tearing it apart. I figure I can sell the heads for a decent price to recoup some of the cost of the complete engine. The way the heads keep disappearing from the junk yard engines, there seems to be a pretty good demand for them.

So this is what arrived today:

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The 289 set-up seems pretty stout, so why R U starting another engine build?
I did up my 289 to HI-PO specs, using modified 1969 351W heads and I'm still content with it since 1983! Just curious! 🤔
 

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My 331 did not require any grinding on the block and my rings don't intersect the wrist pins. The rods are forged rods and were specifically made to clear the 302 block and still retain the big end strength. The ARP bolts have no nuts on them. They are threaded into the rods. They also have locating pins that fit the end caps into the rods. Pretty neat.
What was the rod length? Honestly you would want the longest rod that you can get in there..
 

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Discussion Starter #60
The 289 set-up seems pretty stout, so why R U starting another engine build?
I did up my 289 to HI-PO specs, using modified 1969 351W heads and I'm still content with it since 1983! Just curious! 🤔
I have Twisted Wedge 170 heads with flat top non-TW pistons, so I'm limited on cam. And the bottom end on this 289 has been there since 1980, and there's always room for improvement! I'll keep the 289, put it on the engine stand and have it as a backup. I'll probably get some new pistons for it later on, so if I do go back to the 289, I'll have more compatible pistons available. I could put the stock heads back on and use my original Torker intake to go real old school with it. :)
 
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