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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Fab'ed up the coolant pipes to the heater today, they're 5/8" stainless. I'll finish them after the engine is installed. I'm looking for a mandrel bender for the 5/8" tube so I can get rid of the preformed rubber hose at the water pump.
 

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I like the heater hose set up. I have that engine stand too. Use it for removing the engine out of my Tiger. When dropping he engine out of the bottom bolt it on and roll the engine out. Easy to store too.
 

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What is the wall thickness of the tubing you need to bend? You don't need a mandrel bender, just a hand bender available from any industrial supply house, for tubing up to .065" wall thickness. .035" wall will handle the pressure just fine, though .065" would give more vibration tolerance, it just takes some muscle to bend. You could even eliminate the short braided sections with bent hard line (with different fittings).
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks! I was thinking that the engine needed a little bling on top.
I think there are only a couple of engine stands that will allow you to bolt up the bell housing and transmission while the engine is on the stand. I have another one that supports the engine from the oil pan rails, but it won't work with a pan that has a kick out type sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
What is the wall thickness of the tubing you need to bend? You don't need a mandrel bender, just a hand bender available from any industrial supply house, for tubing up to .065" wall thickness. .035" wall will handle the pressure just fine, though .065" would give more vibration tolerance, it just takes some muscle to bend. You could even eliminate the short braided sections with bent hard line (with different fittings).
It's 5/8" tube, probably .035, That whole thing was made up from mostly stuff I had laying around from other projects. I like to put a little flex line in stuff like this, it will keep from cracking the tubing.
 

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Looks like you are making great progress..!

It will be very interesting to follow as I am at the tail end (I hope) of a very similar build (well Rusty and Brian have done most of the work so far!).

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/218-build-forum/646653-1967-dynacorn-fastback-15.html

Looks like you are choosing a different style, and it is always fun to see another way of doing things.

Good luck with your project...

This will be fun to watch.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Looks like you are making great progress..!

It will be very interesting to follow as I am at the tail end (I hope) of a very similar build (well Rusty and Brian have done most of the work so far!).

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/218-build-forum/646653-1967-dynacorn-fastback-15.html

Looks like you are choosing a different style, and it is always fun to see another way of doing things.

Good luck with your project...

This will be fun to watch.
I've exchanged some PM's with Rusty concerning a problem I'm having with mine that he had with your car.
The left A pillar has some problems that will require professional help. If I were within driving distance, Rusty would probably have this car also.
I picked up the fenders and the front and back glass plus a short style hood with a Shelby scoop molded in. The hood is the one with the steel frame and the fiberglass skin. I'm hoping it will not have some of the problems I've had in the past with 'glass hoods. I found a repo Shelby roll bar the other day, it's going in with some additional bracing to make it a 4 point. Tony Banda sells the Shelby rubber "donuts" to seal off the rear quarter panel where the bar passes through as well as the torx head bolts and spacers to bolt the bar into the roof channel. I haven't done much actual work on it since before Christmas due to some health issues, but will be back at it soon.
 

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Yeah it was the best decision I ever made having Rusty and Brian to do my car,
there are a lot of hours in it, but they are fantastic to work with.
And Brian is a great metalworker, and he is very patient and particular about getting it done right. NO shortcuts there, which I really appreciate.

They have also helped doing some great custom details like the hood latch which turned out perfect (IMHO, haha)

That's too bad with the A-pillar..
We discovered that problem when we were test fitting the window molding, and it just wouldn't fit right.
When it comes to fiberglass I can't give you any advice as I stuck with steel all the way around.

The Shelby style hood is probably the best looking one I think, and will get you some more clearance.

When it comes to roll bars, I had bought mine from MTF and every bend in it was wrong.
I had to get one made locally.
I chose not to do 4 point just to keep it cleaner inside, but it is probably a good idea, it will stiffen the chassis a little also.

Hopefully your health will improve and you'll get back to it...

If there is anything you need help with just let me know..
I've spent more hours researching for this project than I care to admit.

I also have a few things I won't use that you may be interested in that I will not be using?
such as the TCP shock tower brace, flaming river steering column, 2 pails of Lizardskin and other odds and ends.
 

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When it comes to roll bars, I had bought mine from MTF and every bend in it was wrong.
I had to get one made locally.
.
We sell semi loads of these roll bars, and this is the first time I've heard of one not fitting. Did you watch the install video ? Did you call our office about it ? Were you given a refund ? It would be next to impossible for the bends to be off since they are always test fitted in a fixture where it stays until the brackets are all welded on.
 

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I bought it through Rusty, and Brian tried to install it.
But the bends were different on each side so when it was in the car it was different distance from the side pillar to the roll bar on each side.
The center bend was not in the middle, and if you layed it down on a flat surface it would wobble from side to side.

It should still be at Rusty's..
I don't think he contacted you about it..

We were at a point where we just needed to move forward so I chose to get it made locally.
That is the downside to buying things over the internet with shipping and all.
You can loose a lot of time with waiting for exchanges and since this was a heavy item we just chose to move on.

Mustangstofear, please PM me if you want more documentation I'll see if I can find some pictures. If not I'll ask Rusty to send you some..

Sorry for the highjack here....
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Ocruiser, you have a PM
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Well, the smokin' deal I got on the Shelby style roll bar turned out to require a little work to make it fit. One of the tabs that fastens into the shoulder belt bolt was about 1½" off, I cut it off with a sawzall, re-positioned it and welded. I'll be adding some more tubes from the bar to the rear wheel house. Here it is for a test fit.

 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Tinman subframe connectors in for a trial fit. These fit pretty well, just open up the end of the frame extensions, slip the SFC's inside and plug weld. The rear is just some stitch welds at the rear torque box. I'm also going to weld in some tabs at the center of the SFC's, to connect them to the floor where the seat pan is welded into the floor. These will be now be removed for painting prior to welding them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Test fit for the T56 and QT bell. This 'box is one heavy S*B, and I'll probably have to install the engine first and then come up from underneath with the gear box. Also took some measurements to see where the Transmission cross member would be. I had some concerns that some of the welds on the SFC's would interfere with the cross member mounting, but it looks like I'm OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
I decided I wanted a removable upper horizontal piece of the core support, mainly because I'm old and feeble and I know the engine and trans is going to be in and out several times. I fabbed a pair of brackets that weld into the removable piece, and it is held in place by four button head ¼-20 bolts on each end. I also used steel nutserts from mcmaster.com.
I had to add a weld bead at the ends of the cuts to fill in the kerf. I used a piece of copper backing on the inside to so the weld bead would be flat on the inside and minimize any grinding I had to do.
Here's a photo of one of the brackets with the nutrserts installed


This is a neat little tool used for installing nutserts I got at mcmaster.com, I had one of the pliers type installers, but this one is much easier to operate when using heavy duty nutserts.


Here is the upper piece installed, I still have to do a little clean up on it prior to paint, so all that will be seen is the part line and the bolt heads.
If this proves to be a weak link, I have a ½" dia piece of .060 DOM tubing that I can use as a support behind the core support.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Attempted to dry fit the T56 and a bare block, I'm using RM adjustable motor mounts, and in the stock position I couldn't get the transmission high enough to get a decent drive line angle. The transmission ended up pressing against the bottom of the trans tunnel. Tried the lower position and there was some pan to rack interference. So my only recourse is to raise the transmission tunnel. So I cut the trans tunnel out and will be adding some sheet metal to raise it about 1.5" I used some scrap metal I had laying around and clecoed them in place. With a little reshaping of the tunnel top, it will almost fall into place.

 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Just a little tin work

Fabricated the rear cover of the transmission tunnel from 18 ga cold roll steel. Cut out a pattern from some poster paper I picked up at Walmart. Hand bent it into the general shape and then used a HF shrinker/streatcher to make the metal conform to the trans tunnel. This is the first time I have attempted to form sheetmetal on a shrinker/streacher and IMO, it fit pretty good. It's temporally held in place right now, I still have to form some metal for the right side of the trans tunnel at the firewall. The transmission has some interference in that area.
 
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