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Discussion Starter #101
A little update. Test fitted the Modern Drive Line Hydraulic clutch master cylinder, and saw that the firewall was deflecting, so I formed up this reinforcement. It's made from 18 gauge steel and it will be glued in with some 3M panel bonding adhesive. It also allowed me to do away with the speedometer cable hole, I'm using an electronic speedo so the hole wasn't needed. I "tipped" the edges of the reinforcement to give it some resistance to bending, tried to flex the panel and it wouldn't budge.

Here is the firewall prior to the panel. The clutch M/C goes into the bottom hole.

This is a test fit of the panel. I will temporally install the clutch M/C prior to bonding.

I finalized the parking brake cable bracket, welding it the the sub frame connector.


 

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Discussion Starter #102
Fabricating brackets for the KRC power steering pump. The main bracket at the rear of the pump is ½" 6061 T6 aluminum. It connects to a 7/16" stud and a 7/16" bolt in the original factory location. I have some .250 wall aluminum tube to be used as spacers so the pump can be spaced correctly front to rear. I was originally going to use a Ford pump but discovered it is not compatible with the Unisteer rack or the Hydroboost brake booster that I'm using. No one that I know of makes a bracket to bolt in a KRC pump to a Fox type serpentine belt system. The photo is of the rear bracket, which KRC says is sufficient, but I'm going to add a front bracket to provide stability. The front bracket will be in two pieces because of the offset required to mate with the pump mounting holes and the Ford serpentine system. I'm also using a 4" crank pulley, mainly to slow down the KRC pump. The pump develops full boost at 1500 pump RPM and any pump speed beyond that is just wasted power.


 

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Discussion Starter #104
The power steering pump spacers are all fitted, I used .250 wall 6061 T6 aluminum tube. Now to blow it all apart for powder coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Just finished laying down the Kirker Enduro Prime epoxy primer on the inside and underside. Even got the inner structure. Started about 4:30 this morning and finished about two hours later. I'll wait about two or three days before I put the top coat on. I'm going to farm out painting the body.




 

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Discussion Starter #107
Yes it's over there. A couple of guys expressed interest in it.
 

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Looks great.

I'm thinking about getting some equipment to dry out the air that comes out of my lines so I can spray an epoxy primer and the lizard skin in my shop. Do you have any details on the parts (with part numbers) you used to keep your air dry? I have one of those inexpensive water separators from Northern Tool and I still get water coming out of my blower gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
Color!

We have color, got up again this morning at 4 and shot the color on the previously primered areas. It came out pretty good for the most part, considering I did this in my shop, and hadn't painted anything since about 1990 when I did a motorcycle trailer. This was also a new gun, I've had it for years but never used it. It's a Divelbiss Finishline HVLP. Made a few mistakes, the worst one was that the glove box door fell off the rack as I was painting and landed on its front side, so all that paint has got to come off. Since this is a resto mod, I painted all the interior color body color, and after about 8 hours drying time I have some simi-gloss clear that will go on the dash to knock down any glare. Actually the clear has three levels of gloss, depending on how much activator is mixed with it. I used a half gallon of paint for all this. After I finished the inside, I remembered that this was mostly going to be covered with Lizard Skin.






 

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Discussion Starter #111

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I'm a procrastinator, so I haven't decided yet.

I have a water separator and regulator now, but it may be too close to the tank. I have a drop that I'm not using right now, so I figure I will set that one up for dry air. I think I will try to IR filter/regulator you sent me info at the air drop and see if that keeps it dry enough. The wall block I have has a drain on the bottom, so I will add a longer tube there so the water has a place to drop to. I'm on the fence about spending the money on the TP Tools P/N 3405-60 Coalescing Air Filter.

My first use will be for the lizard skin, and that's water based...so will a bit of moisture in the line screw that up?
 

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Discussion Starter #113
I'm a procrastinator, so I haven't decided yet.

I have a water separator and regulator now, but it may be too close to the tank. I have a drop that I'm not using right now, so I figure I will set that one up for dry air. I think I will try to IR filter/regulator you sent me info at the air drop and see if that keeps it dry enough. The wall block I have has a drain on the bottom, so I will add a longer tube there so the water has a place to drop to. I'm on the fence about spending the money on the TP Tools P/N 3405-60 Coalescing Air Filter.

My first use will be for the lizard skin, and that's water based...so will a bit of moisture in the line screw that up?
It's water based so it shouldn't make much of a difference. It may look like a lot of water spraying from the hose, and it would be if you were shooting solvent based paint.


That coalescing filter is the filter that makes my air system by removing most all the moisture. The only other type filter that's as good as the coalescing is a desiccant filter, but then you will still need a coalescing filter to remove any desiccant particles that may get into the air stream. Or you can just get a refrigerated air drier to remove the water but then we are talking $$$
 

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I'm a procrastinator, so I haven't decided yet.

I have a water separator and regulator now, but it may be too close to the tank. I have a drop that I'm not using right now, so I figure I will set that one up for dry air. I think I will try to IR filter/regulator you sent me info at the air drop and see if that keeps it dry enough. The wall block I have has a drain on the bottom, so I will add a longer tube there so the water has a place to drop to. I'm on the fence about spending the money on the TP Tools P/N 3405-60 Coalescing Air Filter.

My first use will be for the lizard skin, and that's water based...so will a bit of moisture in the line screw that up?
I have two airlines, one straight from the compressor the other through the dryer. I used the one from the compressor when I sprayed Lizard Skin and it did fine. The only I noticed that might have been caused by it were a couple of sudden burps and splatters while spraying. Totally invisible when finished, it is of course a textured finish so it would take something serious to show up.
 

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The car is looking good John.

Before I got the refrigerated dryer (small industrial Norgren on ebay $250ish) I used and still use both a Motorguard M60 and a Devilbis desiccant snake. Relatively inexpensive and effective without the cost of a refrigerated dryer. I use all three now.

https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-M-60-Submicronic-Compressed/dp/B00YCLUK76?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-130502-CAMAIR-Desiccant-Inline/dp/B000UZPPKA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2Q61WR80SQ5W3&keywords=dessicant+hose&qid=1560360099&s=gateway&sprefix=dessicant+,tools,180&sr=8-1

Dude still has some of the Norgren dryers. They max out at about the CFM of a 3 1/2 horse compressor but if yours is bigger you can do like @Huntingky and run two lines and use the dryer for apps that need it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Norgren-D11-010-1D01-Compressed-Air-Dryer-10-SCFM-100-115V-50-60Hz-1Ph-1-6HP-R12/351708771972?hash=item51e379f684:g:jv0AAOSwysFb7Xg7

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #116
While waiting for the paint to dry, I installed the SorT rear suspension frames.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
The Raptor Liner is on. I selected the gray tint because it will be top coated with the body color enamel. Raptor liner is normally black but the tint-able version is sort of clear and since my primer is gray, I needed about the same color so that the top coat will come out the same. I sprayed two good coats to insure an even application. If you use this stuff in an enclosed area, be sure you have a good respirator with new filters. It can be some nasty stuff. I set up a cross flow ventilation system using a 5' drum fan blowing the fumes outside. I bought five bottles of Raptor and used only two. So if anyone knows someone that wants to do this, we can make a deal. It goes on easily, just make sure the bottle is screwed on to the gun tight or it will leak. You also need to remove any masking tape within 30 minutes, or the Raptor gets too hard and makes removing the tape difficult. Raptor has the regular gun and a premium. It would be a good idea to get the premium, the regular gun is non adjustable and has a plastic trigger, which doesn't always work well.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Rear brake line and e-brake actuator installed. I ran the brake line a little different than the factory did, I'm using a 3.5" driveshaft and didn't want anything else in the drive shaft tunnel but the driveshaft.
 

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Curious....Why stop the raptor liner where you did and not go all the way to the back of the trunk pan and cover the wheel wells too?
 
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