[Guest]

First a little back ground. I got my 5.0 and T5 up and running. It was hard, but I love the results except for the clutch, because I used the mechanical set-up. I thought it would be cheeper and easier, but it has given me nothing but head aches. I have very little clutch so I either peel out or I kill it. So I want to try the cable set up and I was looking around and I noticed Ron Morris has a new design. You don't have to weld any thing to the top of the pedel or cut a hole in the fire wall. This looks like a pretty weird but easy set up. Has anybody tried it out yet? Does it bind or feel weird? Thanks in advance.

here is the link to the kit
http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/03clutch/

 

[Guest]

Haven't used it, but the idea seems sound. I like the idea of not stressing the firewall. No reason why you can't push the sheath instead of the cable. Since the sheath moves, you would have to check and see if the sheath is prone to chaffing anywhere, especially where it goes through the firewall. Also, the cable will have a tendency to move more in the engine bay. You would have to make sure to allow more room around all the hot stuff.

Cool concept. Buy one so we can all see the results.

 

[66coupe289]

I second Mr. Mikes comments.

Use with long tube headers would likely be a problem. It was a trick to route my cable around the headers with a conventional cable conversion kit. (I shortened cable by 17"). The sheath pushing into the engine compartment will make the cable move roughly 1" forward. You might be able to clear headers, but it would be tight.

One down side is that it appears to do away with the clutch return/helper spring. Many people get rid of those with a typical conversion, but I have found to be helpful if you drive much in traffic.

The idea is pretty cool. With a little work, you could make the setup for $75 or so.

 

[Guest]

Yeah it is pricey, but I am limited with my fabrication, because I live in Air Force dorms and they frown on any car parts in the rooms.

 

[Guest]

Well buy it and let us know.

Since you live in an AF dorm you obviously have not much to spend that really large paycheck on. I presume that your AFB has an auto shop you can use for this type of work? My Navy base does, and lets us civilians use it. We even have a paint booth.

 

[Guest]

Our auto hobby shop is only good for changing oil and minor engine work.

I think I am going to call old Ron tommorow and see what the issue is with the long tube headers. I would hate to pay $250 and my headers get in the way. I hate those cheap things, but my budget wouldn't allow for $400 shorties.

 

[JamesW]

Here's some ideas..I've gathered up all the sites I could find.

http://pwp.clearsource.net/dsigns/james/Cable%20Clutch.htm

If you don't like the swing arm, then check out Mustang Steve's adaptation of a clutch quadrant.

I'm like the others, if you have long tube headers, the cable flexure will be a problem. I would the the wear time would increase significantly also.

 

[Guest]

Well I just placed my order today. I asked about the long tube headers and he said it was a heat issue and to wrap the headers. Since mine are already wrapped I am one step ahead of the game. I just hope it is worth the money.