[Guest]

best thing on the control arms and spring perches is to inspect them for cracks or wear. The spring perches can be replaced or rebuilt with new bushings and the control arms can be rebuilt with new ball joints and bushings also.

the main thing though, is to check for cracks. also, i highly recommend rebuilding the spring perches using original Ford bushings. you'll need to get a little tack weld on the ends though.

Charles Turner
MCA Gold Card Judge(64.5-65, 66)
'65 Fastback
'00 GT Conv, triple black


Check out my 65 [color:blue]fastback!</font color=blue>

 

[i967mustang]

Hi, when I rebuilt the front end on my 67 I could not get just ball joints had to buy the control arm to get them. and after what I went through with the front end I would never do part of it without doing the entire front end again!!!! John

Opal frost pearl metallic 67 coupe http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/febef75b01.JPG
also have a 95 opal frost pearl G/T BOSS edition convertible belongs to swmbo

 

[BillScott]

i took one look at my control arms and decided to replace everthing (suspension, steering, and handling) both front and back. i looked at Canadian Mustang (BIG KIT) and equivalent Mustamgs Plus and decided on Canadian Mustang because of their reputation on this and previous forum (never seen negative comment) and i do not have to pay MAXTAX NY State sales tax - $70. i think they are both good and for my '68 6-cyl Canadian Mustang was $55 cheaper including shipping. have them in my garage and waiting for temp to get above 20 degrees. another advantage on doing the whole thing is the ease of detailing undersides with everything off - easier to get rust removers (wire brushes, grinders) and rust inhibitors/paint on. my total cost was $955.

 

[KTJMcG]

Are you going to do the shelby lowering along with your rebuild?Fastest way I know to get it lowered.

 

[Guest]

when i did mine i replaced everything and im glad i did because i really dont feel like meesing with it again anytime soon. if i were u id either replace or rebuild everything i could now while its apart.

 

[roadracer]

I would not use the "620" springs like everyone else. I would use regular springs and cut the coils 1/2 turn at a time until I get it where I want it. This will keep a nice soft ride and let the tires stay in contact with the ground. Use the big Shelby front swaybar to control body roll during hard cornering. I also use a rear swaybar but some people feel it adds too much to oversteer for their liking.

On the rear, many cars are restored using "stock" springs that are way too high. There are many people more knowledgable that me that can point you to a site that explains what you want in rear springs.

Before you begin, lower the upper front control arms per the Shelby spec (see back of Branda catalog for details).

Beware of backspacing....you need at least 4 1/8" on 7'' wide wheels if you don't want to hammer the front fenders....(ugh!)

http://home.netcom.com/~jonescha/Photos/DCP_0355_178x109.jpg
"If you're under control you're not going fast enough"
Parnelli Jones
Try my website

 

[Dees67]

I'll second the recommendation for the Canadian Mustang Big Kit. I'm just about done installing it
on my '67 including the Shelby upper arm lowering. I can't yet speak to the performance of the
system (although many others have liked it), but I can say that I like the quality and fit of the
parts. I can't wait to get her out on the road and throw her around a few corners.

Rich
'67 C-code 'vert (Dees67)
'69 GT FB (project car)
Check out my band: Brickyard Blues

 

[johnpro]

I would recommend doing the whole thing at one time. A couple points I might make:

Lowering the upper a-arm to shelby specs does not lower the car. The 1" you will lower will at most lower the car 1/2", but probably not even that. It changes the front end geometry, not the car's ride hieght.

Lower A-arms should be bought as a single unit with lower ball joints already attached. Don't settle for a "rebuild kit" for the lower a-arms ... do it right and replace the entire arm.

The upper A-arms can be rebuilt if they have no cracks by drilling out the factory rivets and bolting in the new ball joint. IMHO, though, it is NOT worth the effort to carefully drill out the rivets. I saved about $50 and spent probably over 4 hours rebuilding them. Personally, I feel my time is worth way more the $12/hour (fortunately, so does my employer /forums/images/icons/smile.gif).

Lastly, I don't think 620 # springs are as bad as most people make them out to be. I have the 620# 1" lowered springs on my '66 coupe. The handling in this car is incredible (also added a 1" front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and have an export brace). The 620 springs are definately stiff, and probably not for everyone, but I'll never give up mine /forums/images/icons/smile.gif.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got
http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro

 

[Guest]

The other posts have covered most of the field, but let me re-emphasize the one comment on adding an Export brace and Monte Carlo bar. The front uni-body has already taken 40 years of beating, and the heavy duty springs plus some spirited driving have cracked many front control towers. The Monte Carlo bar and Export brace stiffen the whole front end up and make the car safer to drive.

Gene Zierdt
'65 Conv.
302/roller cam/valves/ported
T-5 w/3.55
negative roll, progressive front, 4 1/2 rear springs
Front & rear anti-sway bars

 

[i967mustang]

Hi, when I put on the export brace and monte carlobar I was shocked as to the difference it made it really stiffened up the front body of the car. definately reccomend these. John

Opal frost pearl metallic 67 coupe http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/febef75b01.JPG
also have a 95 opal frost pearl G/T BOSS edition convertible belongs to swmbo