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Discussion Starter #1
I just got myself an 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe with a 289 2V and C4 auto transmission. I decided to get this for my wife since she loves the older classic mustangs to the newer ones. I got this off of a friends yard for $500 bucks it has all original interior and matching serials. It started right up with a quick oil change, fluid flush, and battery.

I started to sand down the car to see if I would find any rust spots under the primer the previous owner sprayed all over the car. I noticed just a little bit here and there but nothing to major. I do have a big hole in the drivers side panel that goes from the middle to the door. Also noticed a small hole under the rear passengers side seat towards the rear window. The inner trunk seems to be in good shape but it does have a slight hole right behind the drivers side brake next to the gas tank.

I does have all wheel drum brakes and not disks in the front. Due to this it's seems like it has a front brake issue like they are seized. I tried to put the car into drive but just burn the rear tires and the front wheels don't want to move. I noticed that when I put it into reverse it goes without any problems backwards.

What could it be that the car doesn't move forward but backwards it does?

Any input would be great.

Thanks

 

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Seems pretty simple. Front brakes are seized. It is possible for them to get stuck in such a way that they are easier to move one direction. Especially if they are drums. Sounds like a brake system rebuild is in your future.

Jafo
 

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Check to see if the parking brake is on, black handle under the dash left side of steering column. You twist down and push forward to release or it's froze in the rear drum. I have often backed down my driveway with the parking brake on w/o knowing until I put it in drive and tried to go forward.
Testing the front brakes would be easy, jack up the front end and see if you can spin the tires.
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the welcome guys. JonK I tried to release the ebrake but it looks to be in the released position. I think the ebrake is totally gone since I looked under the car and noticed that the ebrake cables are just hanging.

The might have rusted to a point when they released the ebrake they popped the lines.

I'll upgrade the front drums to rotors and see what happens. Any good low cost rotor upgrades?
 

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welcome aboard, as they say you've tried the rest, now try the best (mustang website).
and good luck with your car
 

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Raise the frontend, remove the wheels, remove the rubber plug at the bottom (if it still exists) and back the brakes off with a brake tool or large screwdriver. You may need to push a smaller screwdriver in first to push the self-adjuster out of the way. Once they turn free, you should be able to get the drums off (with some persuasion). If they are original, they are pressed on and it may require you to remove the entire spindle and have them pressed off at a machine shop. If so, now would be a good time to replace the bearings. New drums (if you choose to stick with them), brakes and a spring kit are not that expensive. Take a picture of the existing setup to make sure you replace the springs correctly.
 

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Now would be the perfect time to go for a disk conversion if you're considering it at all
 

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Although you have some issues with the car.. $500.00 seems like a sweet deal and with some love and attention I am sure that car will turn out just fine.. Gotta love them Stangs hehe...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think the price was reasonable also but it will need a lot of work to get her going. I'm looking for a good front caliper kit for the car right now with a good price. I see a few people upgrading to a 76 granada caliper setup and think it ok for the car so I might go with that setup.

Where car I get a brackets for the granada calipers? I can't find any online.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I decided over the weekend on Saturday to give the mustang a few hours of my time. It was so nice I started to work on the body a little bit. I sanded down the car to almost bare metal and hit it with self etching primer and will wet sand next weekend.

I noticed the previous owner put a lot of bondo below the rear pillars behind the rear side windows. It looked like he wanted to mold the pillar to the quarter panels and smooth them out to the lip of the panel. Weird! I must have chipped away around 1/2 a pound of bondo from the pillar. I didn't see a lot of rust in the area but will need to smooth it out.

I also noticed that the hood will need to be replaced. The underside of the hood is totally rusted out and is coming apart from the top hood.







It also looks like I will need to replace the following since they have rusted through.

Doors
Fenders
Hood
Trunk
Front Splash Pan
Radiator Support <-Might as well since almost the front end is going to be repalced.
Re Chrome front and rear bumpers





I also started to take a look at the engine since it's been giving me some problems. The engine seems to cut off when I put the car into gears. I decided to take a good look around the engine and noticed a lot of vacuum line dried out and cracked open. I'll need to replace all of them just in case.

I also noticed the carb is starting to dripping gas from a front gasket. So that's going to need to be rebuilt. Has anyone rebuild these carbs? Is it hard to do?
 
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