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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 65 coupe that has sat for about 10 years and am finally getting serious about body and suspension. So far body is stock and rust. Had nice paint when I bought it but the prep work wasn't done well. I have export brace and monte carlo bar for stiffening. Suspension includes shelby A arm drop, lower stiffer front springs, 1 in front sway bar, rear sway bar. I'm happy with the ride with this setup, braking will is adequate, handling is much better than stock. About to swap a 8.8 axle in for the 3.73 ratio, LS, and disc brakes and additional strength. New engine is 289 with 302 crank(306CID), BALANCED, aftermarket rods/pistons, World iron heads, dual plane aluminum intake, isky mechanical cam([email protected] .512 lift), long tube headers, 700CFM holley double pumper. This will be a drive on Friday, hit the drag strip once a year, drive on weekends when the weather is nice car.

1) Too much carb or is the Holley just that particular about tuning?
2) I'm mechanically inclined, all work listed done myself. Are there any low buck option to noticeably improve handling?
3) I would like to shave some or all of the front shock towers. Which coil overs seem to work, and are they noticeably better than my current setup? (Yes, I realize that isn't in line with low buck. It's a maybe later idea)
4) Stiffening - I will add subframe connectors. Do I need a 4+ point roll cage? Other stiffening?
5) rear traction bars - what works the best?
6) weight removal - how can I reduce weight? Low buck preferred.
7) Body - I'm thinking about a shelby front apron, side scoops, and toying with the idea of a shaker. Any thought or suggestions?
8) Also toying with the idea of a mini tub in the rear for wider tires. Is it worth it?
 

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. This will be a drive on Friday, hit the drag strip once a year, drive on weekends when the weather is nice car.

4) Stiffening - I will add subframe connectors. Do I need a 4+ point roll cage? Other stiffening?
5) rear traction bars - what works the best?
6) weight removal - how can I reduce weight? Low buck preferred.
That's a lot to do for a car that will only be going to the strip once a yr. and only driven on Fridays? especially the tubbing and cutting out shock towers. Looks, bragging rights? if it's worth it to you $ wise, do it.

If you stick with the stock suspension roller spring perches will allow it to react faster and smoother. Adjustable strut rods also give more precise steering and suspension feedback while eliminating the rubber bushings that allow the alignment to change everytime you brake, accelerate or turn aggressively. They also make alignment more spot on and repeatable as you can now adjust in minor increments. Here's a good article on maximizing stock suspension:
DazeCars, Suspension 101

4) Weld in SF connectors will improve chasis rigidity immensely and allow your suspension to do the work instead of the body flexing and dulling the input from the suspension. You won't need a rollbar by NHRA rules until you go faster than 11.99 in the 1/4mi. so I'd hold off on that until needed. Does anyone ever ride in the back seat? The rollbar will make the backseat unuseable for safety reasons to the backseat riders head in a collision.
Adding front L/R torque boxes to the '65 will also increase stiffening.

5)I've only heard good about the original style CalTracs: CalTracs 6400 [6400] - $339.00 : Calvert Racing, The Leader in Leaf Spring Innovation

6) Wt. removal, lots of options here.
Move battery to trunk
Alum. anything in engine compartment - Intake, heads, radiator, etc.

For 1/4mi. = remove front sway bar (better wt. shift at launch), empty trunk (spare, tools, etc.), remove rear seat, remove bumpers, thinner/ lighter tires/ rims, etc.
Going fast isn't cheap normally.
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, basically for the fun and experience. I'd rather make a steel mustang run than ride in a plastic mustang.
Excellent 101 article, thanks.
 

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Yes, basically for the fun and experience. I'd rather make a steel mustang run than ride in a plastic mustang.
Excellent 101 article, thanks.
I hear you there, my wife loves her '09 but I'm very disappointed in all the plastic. You would think they would at LEAST make the mustang emblems metal? no - plastic. Billet factory grille? nope plastic again. The interior of my '67 is softer than hers. The plastic door panels really irritate me as they're so hard to lean on. The rubber console cover is another disappointment, why they didn't cover it with matching leather next to the leather seats is ridiculous. But she enjoys it so it's good enough for her.

Forgot to add in my original reply - Welcome aboard :pirate:
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After a little measurement and research I'm thinking the cheaper, easier solution to wider rear tires may be fender flares or flared fenders.
 

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Rolling the fenders will give you ~1/2" more outward clearance and is much cheaper than going through adding flares/repaint. It all depends on what backspacing your looking at. With 15X7 3.75"bs rims and 225/60/15 tires I had fenderlip rub on the bulge of my tire on suspension compression. Rolling the fenders cured this completely. Later this year I may look at 15X8 or 15X8.5 rims but will need 3.75"-4" bs to make sure i don't rub on the lip still, then I'll figure out how wide the tires can go before I get close to the leaf springs. Good thing is with the fenders rolled they can't cut the tire anymore, smooth rolled surface.
Jon
 

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I have a 65 coupe that has sat for about 10 years and am finally getting serious about body and suspension. So far body is stock and rust. Had nice paint when I bought it but the prep work wasn't done well. I have export brace and monte carlo bar for stiffening. Suspension includes shelby A arm drop, lower stiffer front springs, 1 in front sway bar, rear sway bar. I'm happy with the ride with this setup, braking will is adequate, handling is much better than stock. About to swap a 8.8 axle in for the 3.73 ratio, LS, and disc brakes and additional strength. New engine is 289 with 302 crank(306CID), BALANCED, aftermarket rods/pistons, World iron heads, dual plane aluminum intake, isky mechanical cam([email protected] .512 lift), long tube headers, 700CFM holley double pumper. This will be a drive on Friday, hit the drag strip once a year, drive on weekends when the weather is nice car.

1) Too much carb or is the Holley just that particular about tuning?
2) I'm mechanically inclined, all work listed done myself. Are there any low buck option to noticeably improve handling?
3) I would like to shave some or all of the front shock towers. Which coil overs seem to work, and are they noticeably better than my current setup? (Yes, I realize that isn't in line with low buck. It's a maybe later idea)
4) Stiffening - I will add subframe connectors. Do I need a 4+ point roll cage? Other stiffening?
5) rear traction bars - what works the best?
6) weight removal - how can I reduce weight? Low buck preferred.
7) Body - I'm thinking about a shelby front apron, side scoops, and toying with the idea of a shaker. Any thought or suggestions?
8) Also toying with the idea of a mini tub in the rear for wider tires. Is it worth it?
1) Yes, way too much. And ditch the double pumper. go with 600/650 vac. secondary.
2) Roller perches is about all I can think about.
3) Why? The motor and headers should fit fine and a waste of effort.
4) there is an article here about making your own on the cheap. Better time spent than shaving
towers.
5) Maybe what 'ol Shelby used back in the day?
6) Adkins, Weight Watchers, Jenny Craig....Oh, the car! D'Oh! Move battery, carpet and padding,
rear seat, spare tire. But all you remove effects the abilitys of the car for a daily driver or nice
weekend cruiser. Fiberglass hood, trunklid, cheap aftermarket chinese made fenders.
7) I really like the look of a coupe lowered with Shelby apron and side scoops. Also look at the
Shelby style trunklid with the spoiler build in and use '64? Thunderbird tail lights. Don't care
for the idea of a shaker on an early body style. Love them on '69-'70's though. Get a custom
hood with the '67 Shelby style scoops, or '66 Shelby hood, or even the dreaded Eleanor hood.
8) Mini tubbing an early mustang is a great idea. I've never looked into it, but I think it can be
done easily. Planned out correctly, you could probably run 17X10.5 SN-95 wheels off the shelf.

But remember, you are building this car for YOU to drive/enjoy. I'll gladly give you ideas all day, but don't try to make me happy. I'm continously sending my brother e-mails about his thoughts, but he's going to be highly dissapointed when he finds out I'm only using half or less of his suggestions! He's big on painting under the hood factory black, even on a customed out car. I prefer body color and all factory engine parts either painted or powder coated while he likes them to appear all stock and raw aluminum parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Currently thinking:
600cfm Holley DP.
rear - Override traction bars and panhard bar.
front - Roller perches
subframe connectors, torque boxes
rebuilding 8.8 LS, unsure of whether to shorten the axle or add fender flares. Goal being 245/50/16 rear tires... i think.
Comments, suggestions?
 

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Currently thinking:
600cfm Holley DP.
rear - Override traction bars and panhard bar.
front - Roller perches
subframe connectors, torque boxes
rebuilding 8.8 LS, unsure of whether to shorten the axle or add fender flares. Goal being 245/50/16 rear tires... i think.
Comments, suggestions?
Don't run a Double Pumper on a street car. LOTS of tuning to get it right, and very hard to keep it right.

Just stick with your 8" rear and have a gear installed and look into the adapters to install SN95 discs if you want discs. I say keep the lines of the Mustang original. Don't like the looks of flares unless you have some really deep/wide wheels to balance the apperance. Flares can be that type of bodywork that is either very expensive to be done right, or looks bad a few years later.
Don't remember seeing what your transmission is? Auto, 4 spd, 5 spd? This make a big decision on your carb and rear gears.
 

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Don't run a Double Pumper on a street car. LOTS of tuning to get it right, and very hard to keep it right.
I disagree with that statement. The only real difference between a double pumper and a similar vacuum secondary carb is the activation of the secondary throttle plates. I've run many double pumpers and vacuum secondary Holley carbs and found they they both require about the same amount of work usually. A carb with with a secondary metering block will require jetting (there are vacuum secondary carbs with metering blocks), just like a double pumper, and will take a little more work than a vacuum secondary Holley with a metering plate. On a street car, once you get a Holley set properly, they're usually trouble free. Most carb problems are mechanic induced.


For the OP I would recommend a 600-650 vacuum secondary. The OP didn't mention what he was using for a transmission. If he has a manual or an automatic with a high stall converter (3,000rpm+), he could run a double pumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I found the 8.8, calipers, disc, and all for $250. I couldn't find a way to get gears, LS, and disc brakes on an 8 for anywhere close to that. Plus the 8.8 is stronger.

Currently a factory 3 speed stick. Will probably go a T5Z next.
 
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