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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I painstaking installed my new turn signal switch. I think I bought it from CJ or MU, would have to look up the receipt to find out.

Anyway, I rebuilt the column about a year ago and just got around to installing it.

I fixed all my wiring problems (cleaned grounds, used a test-bulb and my multi meter, cleaned the sockets and replaced the bulbs, extensive troubleshooting) and I've come to the conclusion the switch is bad. (I'm a Aerospace/EE by trade).

Problem is, when I set the switch to turn left, the Right brake light goes out. I can get it to come back on by wiggling the stalk. So I took apart the column and bent the wiper for the right brake light contact. It worked better, but it only lasted about 20 minutes after putting the column back together. I tried cleaning it with contact cleaner but I can't fully disassemble the switch.

Verified all signals work and I can make the light work by pressing on the wiper tab inside the switch. The crappy plastic switch body just deflects too much. I might try drilling out the rivet and tapping the stalk stud for a tighter fit.

If I can't find a good solution, I'm going to build a little relay box to stick under the dash and just trigger off the Left/Right blinker signal (which appears to work pretty good). In fact I'll probably work something up this afternoon.

So, is there a "good" turn signal switch? I have a 67 stock column non-tilt. I searched the forums and people refer to the re-pops as junk, but what other option do I have. (Old switch was attacked by the PO and destroyed).
 

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I'm curious, did you have issues with the turn signals not working properly? Was it the cam you replaced with what I call the whiskers that make the contacts?? I just replaced that part on my 66, when I turned on the right signals, the right rear flashed but not the front and just the opposite when I turned on the left.. I took it back apart and bent (a lot) the whiskers so they made better contact, seems to be working fine..
 

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I just replaced the one in my 67(w/tilt). I too heard that most of the new ones are a crap shoot. I got mine off Ebay from seller Aspen_Auto_Parts, and it was made by Shee-mar. When I first put it in, turn signals worked, but not the right brake & hazard. After unplugging and then re-connecting the main harness/turn signal connectors, everything worked. I guess I got a good one(fingers crossed while knocking on wood). I read in some of the posts that others were able to make some adjustments to theirs to get them to work. Maybe one of those post can help. I know it would suck, but you may have to try another switch, unless the conversion box works for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to try drilling out the rivet that holds the moving part to the fixed part. That will let me bend the wipers and also tighten up the moving plate. It's looser than a prostitute on pension.
 

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88COUGAR!!! DUDE!!! :shocked: I've had this problem on my '67 since 1994. I used to be able to get it to work temporarily by dousing it with contact cleaner and then wiggling some of the wires around. Eventually, my stock unit fell apart. I bought a new re-pro unit as you did and holy crap this thing is loose. My brake lights only work when you wiggle the turn signal wand around as well. I've been fighting this battle for 18 years!!!!! :eek: PLEASE tell me you found a fix!!! I'm PM'ing you my E-mail and cell phone number. I'm in Austin. Help a fellow Texan out!! BTW, I make runs to SAR everyonce in a while. You ever go?

-E
 

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Does anyone manufacture a quality/reliable T/S switch nowadays?
I just confirmed my new T/S switch won't allow the brake lights to work.

Neil Hoppe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haven't had the chance to crack the column and try again yet. I bought a repair cam because it was cheap. I figured I will try drilling/tapping the pivot post instead of the crappy retainers that came in the cam kit. As far as I know, all the 67 switches are the same crap quality.
 

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I recently replaced mine (68) got a normal grade switch from Summit (might have been CJs)... bad out of box... went with scott drake on the next and worked. Can't say the "normal ones" aren't ok, and all SD's are awesome (though the SD stuff does tend to be)... just how it worked for me.
 

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All,

I just replaced my 67 (non-tilt) switch this past weekend and it appears to be a bad Scott Drake T/S switch right out of the box. With the new one, my horn and hazards work but not the turn signals. Everything worked with the old one but the canceling function was broken.

I spoke with summit and they said to return it and since I'm in ATL, I will take it back but does anyone know how I can test the switch functions with a DVM by checking continuity in different function modes?

thx
jcs
 

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I bought a NOS switch when I replaced the old one in my '68. Believe it or not, the NOS switch was bad. Next switch was a new one from Daniel Carpenter. The switch is a little stiff to operate, but everything works fine. Save yourself a lot of trouble when you replace one and just plug it into the harness under the dash to test it out before you go through the trouble of installing it. You'll have to detach all the wires from the harness connector after you do this but it's a lot less trouble than doing the full install on a bad switch.
 
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