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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks,
I have been lurking for a while and finally signed up. I am in the process of restoring a 67 c code coupe. Burnt amber w/ bench seat. Real nice origional condition. Sat in a garage for 20+ years. This is my third mustang over the past twenty years. In my youth I hot rodded my cars. Now that I have matured somewhat (am I really almost 40?), I have been going the stock route. While I do not have the financing to go 100% concourse, where possible I use only oem or nos parts.

Given this course, I have found this forum very interesting and picked up many good tips thus far. Thanks folks.

Anyway, I have stripped the nose, engine compartment, suspension etc and repaired the the front frame rails. I am in the process of priming and prepping for paint.

So, does anyone have pictures of a concours correct engine compartment and outer engine compartment seam sealer application. For example, where the frame rail sections overlap, inner fender panels etc. Are certain areas brush appliication and other neet tube application etc. I would like to replicate the factory application as closely as possible.

Thanks in advance,
Mark C
L.I. NY
 

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First, welcome to the family Mark. SOunds like an interesting car


coda618 said:
........... I have been going the stock route. While I do not have the financing to go 100% concourse, where possible I use only oem or nos parts.
Interesting statement. Since you have to buy or restore the parts what would be the differences between going "100% concours" or not? Could you provide and example? This discussion might help others going through the same thing or with the same thoughts.

coda618 said:
So, does anyone have pictures of a concours correct engine compartment and outer engine compartment seam sealer application. For example, where the frame rail sections overlap, inner fender panels etc. Are certain areas brush appliication and other neet tube application etc.
One rule here (or you'll be asked with a follow up question like I will do now ;) is you need to provide the details related to your project as there are many differences between factories, years (even months) and options on these cars.

Rather than provide this every time they ask a question, some members have just put it as a footer/"signature"

In any case.... we would love to help. And of course help befroe rather than after ;)
 

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Hi Mark. Welcome from another right coaster.

coda618 said:
I have been going the stock route. While I do not have the financing to go 100% concourse, where possible I use only oem or nos parts.
Yeah thats how we all get started but it has a habit of consuming you ;^)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the welcome guys.

"Interesting statement. Since you have to buy or restore the parts what would be the differences between going "100% concours" or not? Could you provide and example? This discussion might help others going through the same thing or with the same thoughts."

Jeff, I make the statement out of humility and respect for what people have accomplished in restoring there cars to concourse specs. As an example, I am prob. not going to be able to afford a nice set of correct NOS, or even used for that matter, Autolite shocks. Let alone find them. I am using moog tie rods. Also, I love the 68/69 gt steel wheels and have peiced together set (plain center caps). Things like that. However, I intend to finish them as correctly as I can and whatever shocks I use I intend to spray the correct black. Needed a hood (appantly used as a storage table and had some other damage as well) bought a Ford tooling. Figured that would be a close as I good get to oem. I do watch the bay though and pickup reasonably priced NOS stuff when I can. For example, I was able to get a set of the grill bars in just about perfect condition in the Ford box for a lil over $50. I thought that was a good deal. Also NOS front brake hoses. I just watch stuff as it comes up and if I can get it for a reasonable price I pick it up a store it for when I need it. Also too, although these are NOS I realize they are service parts and may not be concourse correct (or am I wrong?)

Anyway, more about the car. I am assuming (I know, I know) that it is a metuchen car as I have the original owners manual filled out by the original owner who lived in the bronx. It is an early 67 model year. I am not sure of the month, but built in 66. I believe this because it has a washer bag and when I ordered replacement brake lines from classic tube, there was a question about early or late build date based on how the lines were routed and I remember determining at the time it was an early build date. I know I should take some time and determine these things exactly. Maybe you guys can point me in the right direction.

Is that enough to give me some general advice like what good quality sealer to you guys use to replicate factory?

I will try and post some pics soon. What S**ks is that my wife erased about the first six months of progress from the computer. Including the way it was the day it was dropped off. She SAYS it was an accident.

Thanks again for your input!
 

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coda618 said:
almost 40?), I have been going the stock route. While I do not have the financing to go 100% concourse, where possible I use only oem or nos parts.
I think Jeff answered based on this comment. Stock/oem/nos all refer to factory original or at worst service replacement parts. If you are using all these and quality workmanship you would in fact end up with a concours car. Using your example of shocks, stock/oem/nos would either be Autolite or at worst Motorcraft (which would be concours in a driven class) as far as your car I suggest you start with a Marti report. If the warranty tag is on the door you can get scheduled build date which should be somewhat close to actual. You could also post the VIN and we could not only tell you whether it was a NJ car but even if warranty tag is missing we could come up with a general build date comparing it to other cars on file.
As far as the seam sealer in the engine compartment, can you be more specific as to where you are talking? On the bulkhead, under fenders or on the firewall?
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Tlea.

What about parts like the tie rods where they are aftermarket but finished correct. Does that apply. I wouldn't think so.

For the sealer, right know i am working on the outer engine compartment. Specifically under the fender. Outer shock tower, aprons, torque box.

I will get and post the vin and check the other tag.

Thanks again!
 

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All aftermarket replacement tie rod ends have grease fittings and look nothing like originals.
As far as the seam sealers when we find out what plant your car was built at we can be more specific. Under the fender would be strip caulk (I call it dumdum) There were also sealers used where the rear aprons meet the firewall on the wheel well side, at the upper cowl to firewall and spray sealer on the firewall it self. In addition to this NJ cars often got the bottom of the shock tower pockets filled with a black sealer.
 

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Of thread so excuse me

Tim noticed the signature change.... congratulations!!!!!

Now back to the thread ;)
 

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You need to consider that few to almost no person out there showing/restoring a car has a 100% car. Each restorer/owner makes choices based on allot of factors (money, availability, time). Often this means settling for something short of perfect, hoping that it does not get noticed ;)

Consider that if you keep these choices to bolt on items then you can always "choose" later to make a change. The path towards a perfect (or imperfect) car is what concours is about the final goal would be the finished car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Drum roll please....

7F01c1642XX

Body 65c Color V Trim 4A Date 16B DSO 44 Axle O Trans W
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jeff,
Thanks for the wisdom and encouragement.
 

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coda618 said:
Jeff,
Thanks for the wisdom and encouragement.
Your welcome... and looking at the VIN it will be a bit easier to do that one than a NJ car ;)
 

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I really have nothing to add to this post other than to say welcome to another Burnt Amber '67 owner.

I'm familiar with your avatar photo. I copied it and photoshopped the rocker moldings out. I want mine to eventually look almost exactly like that one.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/files/attachments/med_1190695109-67BardahlMustangPhotoshopped.JPG

Frank
 

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coda618 said:
Drum roll please....

7F01c1642XX

Body 65c Color V Trim 4A Date 16B DSO 44 Axle O Trans W
I don't have a lot of 67 Dearborn VIN/build dates but my guess would be around January 67
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So you guys are saying it is a dearborn car? Jeff, what makes it easier?

Frank, thanks for the welcome, that picture is my goal as well. Nice car huh? Do you have the other pics of that car as well (engine etc)? It is sweet.
 

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coda618 said:
So you guys are saying it is a dearborn car? Jeff, what makes it easier?
No Jeff just refuses to believe they actually built cars in NJ ;)
Actually he is probably referring to the fact that due to the weather conditions and salt on the east coast there are far fewer pristine examples of unrestored cars from NJ to look at. And yes you have a Dearborn car.
 

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tlea said:
No Jeff just refuses to believe they actually built cars in NJ ;)
Actually he is probably referring to the fact that due to the weather conditions and salt on the east coast there are far fewer pristine examples of unrestored cars from NJ to look at. And yes you have a Dearborn car.

Oh..... your such a good student ;)

Did see five NJ cars at a show here today. Just can't understand why. :0


We must be running out of cars
 

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Yeah, I have the issue of MM that this was featured in. I've seen a few repainted Burnt Amber cars, and this one seems to come closest to what I think is the original shade.

The build date on your data plate decodes as Feb. 16, 1967. Not real early, more mid production.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Frank, I noticed that too about the shade. Maybe it is that it is late in the day/dusk when the pictures were shot, but the color looks so rich and warm compared to other pics i've seen.

Where are you in your project? Also, is your car late production (302?).
 

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This is a recent picture. I just got done installing late model seats. It still needs lots of help.

It's a December '66 build. It's a C code. The 302 came out of a '69 Fairlane.

Frank
 
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