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Well, on to the next project. I was talking to a guy at Acklands (welding place) and he had some 2guage battery cable csa approved and marine grade. He said this is about the best cable you can use. Anyone know about cable ratings?
 

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Don't ask the jeweler about cattle, and don't ask your welder about 12 volt electrical cable. It's important you get this right, or you won't get the amperage you need at the starter. I'm afraid I don't have the answer, but it will certainly need to be larger than a normal battery cable. Maybe a speed shop would have the right cable. That seems to be the thing to do in race cars.


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2 gauge welding cable is pretty darn good to use in your relocation project. i used the stuff before for a different purpose. when i was into my car stereo phase, i used it to power up my 1400 watt system. i say go for it!

Rubelle
65 2+2, 289 (early A code), c/r toploader, magna suspension, centerline convo pros
 

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Exactly what I would use. The stuff you get in a kit is crap compared to that stuff. The welding cable is multiple very fine copper wires and is the best for this.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

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Well, I guess I got lucky. This jeweler knew a bit about cattle!
Good analogy though!
 

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Although I think your solution is an excellent one, due to the desire to limit weight, I went with 2 ga copper coated aluminum stranded cable on the race car....with 2 ga also running between the batteries and system disconnect on the rear taillight panel...

Weight savings were minor (maybe 5 or 6 lbs), but on a race car, it all matters. One of my customers is a public utility which shut off my power again today *G* and one of my buddies there helped me out...finding the cable I mean...

IMO, when weight is not a consideration, use 0 to 2 guage fine strand copper cable....since it is pretty flexible, supporting it and protecting it from damage should be addressed carefully....

Additionally, I moved the starter solenoid down to the front frame rail near the starter to keep the cable runs to a minimum...

So far, it has worked like a charm....starters have been another story however...*G*

Pat
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I would like to do the same thing. Do you just run the ground cable to the trunk floor? What's the best box to put it in?
Thanks
 

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Pat's right - I got my cable from my buddy at SCE (maybe that's why they're going bankrupt!). I initially used one of the black nylon marine boxes (with lid) from WalMart or some such place. I have since upgraded the box to an all aluminum one by Taylor (from Sumitt Racing). It is pricey at 80 bucks, but looks great back there all polished PLUS it is NHRA approved.....


my battery is grounded to part of the unibody in the trunk - just make sure you have good metal-to-metal contact with NO rust or paint......
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randy

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I just completed this project on my 70 sportsroof, using 2 gauge welding cable. This is great stuff. Because of the multiple thin strands of copper wire, many many more compared to the usual battery cable, there is very little resistance, which makes it good for a trunk mount battery. I used 16 feet of the stuff to mount the battery in my car, plus another foot for the ground and an 8 inch section to wire in a battery shut off switch. If you have any questions about installation, I would be happy to share what I learned, in terms of routing the cable and installing the battery. Remember to use rubber grommets wherever the cable passes through sheetmetal. The size with a 7/16ths opening (requiring a 3/4 inch hole in the sheet metal) work fine with the 2 gauge wire (a little tight, but work). good luck.

sure it's fun, but it's only a car.
 
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Should I install a battery shut off switch? What's involved?
 

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The good cable is tinned. Meaning, that the copper strands have been coated with tin. This protects against corrosion and reduces friction between strands making it more flexible.

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Not NHRA legal, but....

You inquired about where to hook the ground - On my 65, I took my battery cutout switch, and used 1 leg of it to mount the switch itself to the trunk hinge bracket up under the rear window. Attached my ground cable to the other leg. This provides
a solid mount for the switch,
a good ground connection,
a handy battery disconnect,
and a good anti-theft device, since you have to get in the trunk to turn the power on.....

My 1965 Restomod Shelby Clone
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There is no safety reason to install a shut off switch unless you are racing. If you drag race your car track safety rules require a battery shut off switch located outside the car. This is so if you crash, track officials can shut off power to the electric fuel pump and mitigate the possibility of fire.

A battery shut off switch is a useful theft detterant item. That is why I installed it. With the battery in the trunk, you are wiring a long stretch of cable, which makes it convenient to locate a switch, while you are doing that. I have quick release terminal ends on the battery cables at the battery, the shut off switch, an ignition disable switch and an adjustable rev limiter which I can set down to 1000 rpm when I turn off the car. These, I hope, will keep the car in my possession.

It's your choice whether to install a switch. For safety purposes, the money would be better spent on upgrading to a gel-style, sealed battery, like an optima, which would avoid spills and vapors by your gas tank.

good luck.

sure it's fun, but it's only a car.
 
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