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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I found a nice method for making chromed plastic interior pieces look nice again, for only about 10 bucks-First off, I have actually done this and was pleased with the results, HOWEVER it isn't gonna fly in any sort of concours car, but it leaves a near-original finish that is excellent for a driver. I personally did it on the skinny chrome trim that ran around my center gauge, radio, and heater bezel.

First, I used 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any pits or scrapes that are in the surface... This is the most important step, cause when you are finished you will notice any imperfections. I wetsanded just to keep the paper from clogging.

Second, mask off around it, and spray it w/ a primer... I used zinc body primer, worked ok for me... Sand again and reprime if necessary.

Third-Let the primer set up, and when it is dry, shoot on a chrome spray paint (I used Krylon Bright Chrome, and it left an excellent finish.. Found it at Wal-Mart). With the Krylon paint, once you start, you have to finish, theres no second chances it has to go on all at the same time or it won't be even. Spray it on lightly too, it LOVES to run.

After the paint has tacked up, peel the masking tape off and voila! An excellent recreation of artifical chrome!.. Seriously, it does yield excellent results; it has a nice luster and if you are good with a rattlecan it will leave a nice, even finish that looks nearly original an much better than regular silver paint. If anyone really wants them I could muster up some photos of my finished results, if you have any questions give me a yell!

-Jason

'72 Mach 1 || '90 Talon TSi AWD
http://nosaj122081.tripod.com/parade3.jpg
"Thats not a leak, my car's marking its territory!"
"If you've done it, it ain't braggin'." -Roy Rogers
 

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How tough is the paint? I've used the bright silver or chrome for making the inside of old tail lamp housings bright again. Does the Krylon get dull if you rub it even if it's dry? I had that problem with the tail light housings. One thing that doesn't work is spraying a rattle can clear over it to make it rub resistent. Instant DULL city!

Regards,

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"
 

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I did the same thing with the "chrome plated plastic" piece of the light on the end of my console, as I couldn't find one in good enough shape and mine was pretty sad looking. Since there's not very much showing of this piece, and it's in a hard to see area anyway, I did exactly as you did, and was quite pleased with the results. I'm not too sure of how it would look in a highly visible area, but for everything else ...

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

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Discussion Starter #4
The reason I had the chrome paint was that I used to have a 92 Ranger w/ an 8.8 inch rear... I used the paint to paint the differential cover, and actually had to do it once, so yeah, its pretty durable, don't know about rubbing it though, however my diff. cover stayed shiney and it was in some pretty harsh surroundings.. LOL, yeah, I found out the hard way not to spray it with clear acrylic, it makes it kinda rust! Good luck!

-Jason

'72 Mach 1 || '90 Talon TSi AWD
http://nosaj122081.tripod.com/parade3.jpg
"Thats not a leak, my car's marking its territory!"
"If you've done it, it ain't braggin'." -Roy Rogers
 
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I bought the same stuff at Walmart, they have gotten better with the chrome paint, I remember 10 or 15 years ago it was horrible, it isn't as bad now.I was going to try the same thing on some of my fairlane dash pieces, looks like the masking would be the most time consuming.I found that when I used clear coat over the chrome paint it turned to a dull argent color.

1967 S code GT Deluxe Coupe 65B
1966 Convertible 76B 289 4 speed
1964 Fairlane 500 2DR HT-the new project
1986 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 the "beater"
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Discussion Starter #6
Yup, it takes absolutely forever to mask, make sure you do it well though becaus the chrome paint is thin and likes to run.. Good luck!


-Jason

'72 Mach 1 || '90 Talon TSi AWD
http://nosaj122081.tripod.com/parade3.jpg
"Thats not a leak, my car's marking its territory!"
"If you've done it, it ain't braggin'." -Roy Rogers
 
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hey jason,
put a pic up if you can. i think many of us would like to see the results.
thanks
mike o


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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Discussion Starter #8
no problem, I'm at school now so I don't have my setup, but I will take a few pictures as soon as I get home and post them in a new thread! Thanks!

-Jason

'72 Mach 1 || '90 Talon TSi AWD
http://nosaj122081.tripod.com/parade3.jpg
"Thats not a leak, my car's marking its territory!"
"If you've done it, it ain't braggin'." -Roy Rogers
 
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I tried this on all of my old plastic original pieces before I bought some more repro stuff, since I wasn't too impressed with the repro stuff:

I first painted the large, black textured areas. After a few days for them to dry sufficiently, I taped off these areas leaving only the chrome areas showing. I tried 2 different products: the Krylon bright chrome and Bumper Chrome by PlastiKote.

The end result? I wouldn't recommend either on highly visible pieces, as johnpro has alluded to. Neither product look like chrome, but rather a shinier version of silver paint. Side by side with 'chromed' pieces they look pretty bad. If all the pieces are done this way, it's not as noticeable. I found that extra coats had no effect on more or less shiny-ness.

For me, bottom line is that on something that wasn't noticeable I would use it, but on highly visible pieces I'd either suck it up and buy repro or rechrome the old stuff.

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