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Discussion Starter #1
Well the car won't start all of a sudden, sort of. After replacing the fuel line the car ran fine up until a few days ago. Now it won't start. Checked the fuel line, fuel filters and the fuel pump, no problems with the line or filtes and the pump is sending fuel to the carb. Checked the carb and it is ok too. Checked to see if I was getting any spark and no spark. The starter solenoid and voltage alt regulator are both brand new. Also ended up getting a new alternator and alt wiring harness because both were bad as well has the negative batt. cable. The battery is brand new so there is nothing wrong with it. I installed new plug wires(Accell 8mm) and when the car wouldn't fire I put the old ones back on just incase I screwed up making the new ones. Still no spark. I have not fooled with the distributor so I don't think I messed up the timing. I do know the last time the points were changed was in 1994, think they could be bad? Any and all suggestions welcome because I'm getting very PO'd.
 

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You might want to try a condensor, if you have a points condensor style ignition. Also check to see if there is voltage to the coil and spark at the coil wire. Could be cap or rotor problem.

DavidG
 

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the last time the points were changed was in 1994, think they could be bad?

Um...

Points, condensor, rotor, cap...change...they may not be the problem but should've been replaced long ago...

You can try bypassing the ignition switch by removing the wire from the coil, which does not go to the distributor, and running one directly from the battery. Warning: if this solves the problem, the only way you'll be able to kill the engine is by removing the wire....keep that in mind. This test should verify the condition of the coil and ignition components.

When you turn the ignition switch to "on", do your turn signals operate?

Maybe Midlife will weigh in on this one....I can do the work but am not enough of an expert to explain it in simple terms...*G*

Good luck!
 

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I agree with Pat, change the points and condenser. You could check for sure by removing the distributor cap and rotor, remove the center coil wire from cap and hold it next to ground, turn the ign key on and use a screwdriver to short across the points. If you get fire to ground (or through your body to ground) then the points are the culprit and are the most likely thing. when using the screwdriver you will see small voltage sparks at the points if there is voltage getting to there. BTW if you do get fire at the coil wire with this procedure you condensor is fine. I will probably draw a lot of disagreement on this statement but I wont change a good condenser, chances are the one you replace it with will fail before the one that is installed will.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't know if my turn signals work or not. I'll try that when I get home. This may sound stupid, but, uh, what do my turn signals have to do with my car not starting. One more note on the points. They were changed in 1994, that's when the engine was rebuilt and since then only about 10k miles have been put on it. I've wanted to upgrade my cap & rotor to the Ford Racing performance cap & rotor and install a Pertronix. Now sounds like the perfect time, but I'll definitely do the trouble shooting because I want to know what crapped out. Thanks in advance.

"When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty."
 

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Good advice, Pat. Here's why he said to test the turn signals: it is a test to see if there is sufficient voltage/amperage to run accessories. If not, it may be a sign that there is insufficient voltage to the coil. I like the test of taking a sparkplug out, and seeing what kind of a spark you get when you place it close to the block while cranking. That's a useful shadetree mechanic's test of getting spark.

I also agree that a complete change of condensor, rotor, cap, and points are in order. The points may have slipped, and are continuously closed.

You do have a rotor in the dizzy, eh?
 

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Hey guys, I just went though this yesterday. Ol' Hoss threw a fit and wouldn't start. Turned out to be the ballast resistor to the coil was burned out. It should Ohm out to somewhere around 150 Ohms I think. Cost me $8 to get my car happy again. If you have one you might check that. Only takes a minute.
 

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This may sound stupid, but, uh, what do my turn signals have to do with my car not starting

Not stupid at all...because I'm no expert, I often do many stupid things when troubleshooting electrical stuff *G*...if the turn signals work, you know at least part of the ignition switch is working, that and the part which energizes the starter solenoid. You can only operate the turn signals when the ignition switch is on and functioning, at least on my 64.5...also, the idiot lights and/or guages should operate as well.

Given the amount of years under the bridge, even though the engine only has 10K miles on it, all that setting around can take its toll on electrical components, sometimes more so than actual use, hence the phrase "use it or lose it" *G*...

It's likely something simple, possibly related to the extensive work you've done recently to the electrical system...we'll figure it out..

In case you didn't go back to the thread, view Midlife's post below (he responded to mine so you didn't get it in e-mail)...

Good advice, Pat. Here's why he said to test the turn signals: it is a test to see if there is sufficient voltage/amperage to run accessories. If not, it may be a sign that there is insufficient voltage to the coil. I like the test of taking a sparkplug out, and seeing what kind of a spark you get when you place it close to the block while cranking. That's a useful shadetree mechanic's test of getting spark.

I also agree that a complete change of condensor, rotor, cap, and points are in order. The points may have slipped, and are continuously closed.
You do have a rotor in the dizzy, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
While working on the problem yesterday I did notice that my fuel & voltage gauge worked, my temp(another problem I'm trying to solve) and oil press did not but I assume that is because the engine was not running. Radio and interior lights worked fine. I did do the shade tree bit with old & new plugs and did not see spark from either. It getting late so I'll have to give you guys an update tomorrow on what I find out, and yes the rotor was there under the cap, is the key board/mouse plugged in. I've been putting off the Pertronix upgrade but now would seem like a good time to do it, huh?

"When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty."
 

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When I last ran points, I changed them every six months even if mileage was low...and those were motorcraft points (the best IMO!!)

1994.....LMFAO!!!
 
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